Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Looking for replacement X. What VIN is OK?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
As Tesla is repurchasing my early VIN X, I am actively searching for replacement. I wanted to get some opinions as to what VIN would be considered "safe" for a replacement. Ideally, I am looking for an inventory car. One option is a car with VIN of 48,000 and by my calculations produced sometime in 3/17. Would I expect it to be relatively problem free? Would I miss on any new features? Updated MCU? If you had to get an inventory car, what would your cut of VIN be?TIA!
 
As Tesla is repurchasing my early VIN X, I am actively searching for replacement. I wanted to get some opinions as to what VIN would be considered "safe" for a replacement. Ideally, I am looking for an inventory car. One option is a car with VIN of 48,000 and by my calculations produced sometime in 3/17. Would I expect it to be relatively problem free? Would I miss on any new features? Updated MCU? If you had to get an inventory car, what would your cut of VIN be?TIA!
If it was me and had some patience then I'd go for after 7/21-ish builds ... wasn't that when the 2.5 hardware was introduced?
 
7/21/2017? That's very precise! Does anyone know what VIN number that corresponds to?
I added the '-ish' so not that precise ... just the date that stuck in my head because I was looking for an X in Dec 17 and was hoping for 2.5. I ended up finding a good deal on a 2.0 X that was in great shape at a discount (service loaner) with the feature I wanted. Dumb or not I paid for FSD thinking it may "lock me in" more/better if required hardware upgrades are needed for FSD and 2.5 had what they needed for that. I found someone that helped me out at my local service center ... they can see things that are not on all the 'inventory' website list.

You can see this thread for more 2.5 stuff. HW2.5 capabilities
 
I added the '-ish' so not that precise ... just the date that stuck in my head because I was looking for an X in Dec 17 and was hoping for 2.5. I ended up finding a good deal on a 2.0 X that was in great shape at a discount (service loaner) with the feature I wanted. Dumb or not I paid for FSD thinking it may "lock me in" more/better if required hardware upgrades are needed for FSD and 2.5 had what they needed for that. I found someone that helped me out at my local service center ... they can see things that are not on all the 'inventory' website list.

You can see this thread for more 2.5 stuff. HW2.5 capabilities

That's great info!

I think its smart paying for full self driving which will probably force their hand to upgrade to 2.5 even if you get 2.0.

I think finding an inventory car with good adjustment made after 7/21 will be a challenge this quarter. Waiting until the end of next quarter is dangerous because I will probably loose federal tax credit.

Decisions, decisions...
 
  • Like
Reactions: scottf200
That's great info!

I think its smart paying for full self driving which will probably force their hand to upgrade to 2.5 even if you get 2.0.

I think finding an inventory car with good adjustment made after 7/21 will be a challenge this quarter. Waiting until the end of next quarter is dangerous because I will probably loose federal tax credit.

Decisions, decisions...
Do you lose money on XPEL stealth and powder coating wheels and calipers??
 
Do you lose money on XPEL stealth and powder coating wheels and calipers??

Yes, I do. But they are giving almost all my money back for the car. I put newrly15k miles on the car, tires would need to be replaced soon. Plus just got registration for next year which is almost a grand. I am also getting free enxtended warranty on the replacement X. And I am swapping for an AP2 car with bigger battery. All in all, I think it’s still worh it.
 
Yes, I do. But they are giving almost all my money back for the car. I put newrly15k miles on the car, tires would need to be replaced soon. Plus just got registration for next year which is almost a grand. I am also getting free enxtended warranty on the replacement X. And I am swapping for an AP2 car with bigger battery. All in all, I think it’s still worh it.

Did Tesla offer extent service plan with the buyback or did you asked for it?
 
I'd say in general your are probably best going with something that would at this time be considered and inventory car, as they prob go back to Q4 2018 productions. You'll have the newer build parts, AP 2.5 hardware, etc. It'll likely be inventory or perhaps if someone is selling that just got theirs in the last 3-4 months.
 
I'd say in general your are probably best going with something that would at this time be considered and inventory car, as they prob go back to Q4 2018 productions. You'll have the newer build parts, AP 2.5 hardware, etc. It'll likely be inventory or perhaps if someone is selling that just got theirs in the last 3-4 months.

I am not sure I understand what you are saying. Inventory cars can be produces all over the place, they are not just from previous quarter. I have recently seen inventory cars with VINs 48XXX, 63XXX, etc.
 
Adding to this, I would try to stay away from VIN produced by the end of quarter. My experience they tent to have minor issues and fitment issues.
I don't think there is a way to associate a VIN to a build date unless the owner knows that information. It is also hard for me to believe Tesla workers have different quality standards based on dates. I toured the factory. 90% of the vehicles are built by robots without human intervention. The conspiracy that they would run different programing on the robots to speed up the line based on build dates just seems...well far fetched. IMO.
 
I don't think there is a way to associate a VIN to a build date unless the owner knows that information. It is also hard for me to believe Tesla workers have different quality standards based on dates. I toured the factory. 90% of the vehicles are built by robots without human intervention. The conspiracy that they would run different programing on the robots to speed up the line based on build dates just seems...well far fetched. IMO.

Well, Tesla no longer allows to postpone production so moving forward you probably can guesstimate production date fairly accurately. Based on what I've read on TMC, for example, VIN 48,000 cars were produced around 3/17.
 
Good question by the OP. Tesla's quality has ramped up quite rapidly. The later the production the better the quality, but also the higher the cost. Want to find that perfect production time to get the best quality for the least cost.

However, it does not always work that way. With all production vehicles their is always the luck of the draw. Two vehicles, produced on the same day, may have different issues. The pickier you are the more issues you will find.

I purchased a late January build 75X and it the quality has been far better than I would have expected, after reading these forums. It is smooth, quiet, fast and great handling. Best road trip car I have ever owned. Others seem to have every problem in the book.

To me, buying an inventory might increase the quality worry. Have to wonder why it is in inventory instead of being accepted by the original purchaser. To offset this worry, the price is usually less.

Think the best chance of getting the highest quality car is to order it new, and to your specifications. Best chance to get a no stories car. (Of course this has the highest cost.)

Sometimes, when ordering new, you get additonal bonus items that become included between the time of ordering and the time of production. Sometimes you wil also be happily surprised with a lower pick up price, as there has been a price reduction prior to your delivery.

For me, it resulted in an upgrade of a ordered 70 to a 75, a free tow hitch with plugs, a "un-corkable serial number, upgraded auto pilot computer and equipment, better tires, fold flat seating, and some other goodies. All pleasant surprises.

Best car I have ever owned.

YMMV.
 
Good question by the OP. Tesla's quality has ramped up quite rapidly. The later the production the better the quality, but also the higher the cost. Want to find that perfect production time to get the best quality for the least cost.

However, it does not always work that way. With all production vehicles their is always the luck of the draw. Two vehicles, produced on the same day, may have different issues. The pickier you are the more issues you will find.

I purchased a late January build 75X and it the quality has been far better than I would have expected, after reading these forums. It is smooth, quiet, fast and great handling. Best road trip car I have ever owned. Others seem to have every problem in the book.

To me, buying an inventory might increase the quality worry. Have to wonder why it is in inventory instead of being accepted by the original purchaser. To offset this worry, the price is usually less.

Think the best chance of getting the highest quality car is to order it new, and to your specifications. Best chance to get a no stories car. (Of course this has the highest cost.)

Sometimes, when ordering new, you get additonal bonus items that become included between the time of ordering and the time of production. Sometimes you wil also be happily surprised with a lower pick up price, as there has been a price reduction prior to your delivery.

For me, it resulted in an upgrade of a ordered 70 to a 75, a free tow hitch with plugs, a "un-corkable serial number, upgraded auto pilot computer and equipment, better tires, fold flat seating, and some other goodies. All pleasant surprises.

Best car I have ever owned.

YMMV.

I disagree on a few points. Vast majority of inventory cars are service loaners and demo cars, not cars declined by purchasers. I can make an argument that inventory car may have fewer issues since it’s already been in the road a few thousand miles and some issues were probably already fixed at SC.

Also, it’s not only an issue of better build quality or not. MX get hundreds of updated parts monthly. Vehicle produced 3/16 is probably very different from one produced 3/17. Knowing what changes occurred at what VIN makes fo a better purchasing decision.

I am looking at a car that has over 20k showroom discount. Although I can easily write a check for new build I’d take the discount if I can. May when put it towards my upcoming M3 :)