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Lowered my car this morning with adjustable links: Key steps that ensure precision

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scottm, I've been wondering the same thing. I'm guessing that you would probably get slightly less mileage (but only a very slight loss in efficiency), and an increased downward force on the rear wheels (much like the effect of adding the spoiler). If you want to be the guinea pig & report back to us, that would be great!
 
I used the dimensions that artsci posted when he started this thread. I completed a 6000 mi road trip with his settings. I feel really great about the tire wear. I have 245/30R21 Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires on all 4 wheels. I just had mine measured at the SC with ~ 16 k mi on the tires. They were 5 mm on all 4 tires. I consider this impressive for a P85+. My average electrical consumption for the 6000 mi trip was 310 Whr/mi. My last leg between Huntsville, TX and Houston was 257 Whr/mi. The trip was out West where speed limits are often 75 mph or 80 mph in WY. Because I have tank mode retrofitted, I am not concerned about road debris compromising the battery. From my experience I would not worry about tire wear. If you have tank mode, you can rest easy about the battery. I believe that my energy consumption was less with the lowered settings.
 
Gnelson, do the 245s fit well on the wider rear rims? I thought you had to have 265s?
The 245's fit fine on a 9 in wheel and perform well. I would prefer to have 265's, but I can't get Michelin Pilot Super Sport in 265 width. Some people want to replace the 9 in wheel with 8.5 in wheels to be able to rotate tires. I don't care about rotating tires, and I may go back to 265's in the future depending on tire availability. My ultimate goal would be to buy 20 in turbine wheels in 8.5 in width for the front and 9 in width for the rear.
 
Maybe a strange question, but I lowered my car with the adjustable links a while ago, front looks good, but rear keeps a big wheelgap around 4cm.
Now, today I adjusted the rear links with +4mm.. (For +-2cm extra drop in the rear).
It's now around 94.20mm length of links, but still the same gap [emoji33].
Am I doing something wrong or did Tesla tamper with airmatic software settings? Got a drive unit replacement recently, while custom links were in place...

Anyone ideas?
 
Maybe a strange question, but I lowered my car with the adjustable links a while ago, front looks good, but rear keeps a big wheelgap around 4cm.
Now, today I adjusted the rear links with +4mm.. (For +-2cm extra drop in the rear).
It's now around 94.20mm length of links, but still the same gap [emoji33].
Am I doing something wrong or did Tesla tamper with airmatic software settings? Got a drive unit replacement recently, while custom links were in place...

Anyone ideas?

Do your height adjustments from the console move the rear up / down, or is the rear stuck stuck at a fixed height? (your post doesn't make it clear)
 
Tesla will do a ride height calibration if they do something as significant as a drive unit replacement. Perhaps they did just the rear which would reset the factory rear ride height accounting for your different length links. The problem is that trying to change the links further in the same direction may place the potentiometer arm at an un acceptable or non-functional angle thus preventing proper ride height control. Just a guess but this may be what you are seeing.
 
Can SC initiate a re-calibrate over the air? Just wondering. To circumvent the requirement for a physical visit.

And note to self... if ever taking a lowering link modified car to SC, set back to stock height (length) before wheeling it in there. Keep those fender height figures handy.
 
Good point, you might be right about this.
I'm in for some service in November. I think it would be wise to exchange my rear links for the OEM's, just to recalibrate it to 'regular' height...

Tesla will do a ride height calibration if they do something as significant as a drive unit replacement. Perhaps they did just the rear which would reset the factory rear ride height accounting for your different length links. The problem is that trying to change the links further in the same direction may place the potentiometer arm at an un acceptable or non-functional angle thus preventing proper ride height control. Just a guess but this may be what you are seeing.
 
Update: FYI, I was curious if I could extend the links longer. Bought the airmatic evolution kit, which can extend beyond 100mm for Rear in comparison with my old links.
Just changed it to 102,33mm and guess what; wheel gap is now acceptable with front gap (around 3cm from outer fender to tire). Conclusion;
Potentiometer does register beyond 102mm. But Tesla certainly recalibrated things when installing my new drive unit.
Important lesson for the next time.