Lowering the Model 3
- Thread starter Cricket88
- Start date
DB-Cooper
Member
I was quoted $500 by the same shop that did my tint and chrome delete. I’d say that’s on the high side, $300-350 sounds more inline with other cars. However, given that jacking a Tesla requires special consideration, I’d only recommend having someone proficient with Teslas do it.
DB-Cooper
Member
Still looking to find if anyone installed the Eibachs. The 0.4” greater rear drop has me concerned about a sagging appearance.
These are the comfort coilovers, so it’s tight but not harsh. I noticed that stock is a bit bumpy over expansion joints and this smoothes it out a bit. It lowers the car without compromising ride quality.
I haven’t checked the camber yet - it is pretty agressive, but waiting for the suspension to settle a bit. It’s set up at the recommended settings, but I may raise it just a hair. Planning to take it to firestone for an alignment and will post the results to see if i need to get the adjustable camber arms.
I was quoted $500 for springs, or $625 for the coilovers (due to the additional adjustments).
I haven’t checked the camber yet - it is pretty agressive, but waiting for the suspension to settle a bit. It’s set up at the recommended settings, but I may raise it just a hair. Planning to take it to firestone for an alignment and will post the results to see if i need to get the adjustable camber arms.
I was quoted $500 for springs, or $625 for the coilovers (due to the additional adjustments).
I have the Eibachs installed on mine. This isn’t the best picture because of the angle, but they do seem to give a more level appearance compared to the others that I have seen where the back looks to low.
PIEric
Member
looking good
mind posting more pics in diff angles..specially the rear..tia
Yeah I’ll see if I can get some up tomorrow.
DB-Cooper
Member
Thanks. I think there are different springs for Performance model. I don’t recall the non-performance Eibachs having the much lower rears.
It really does look good, I am still debating which springs to go with, I am also looking forward to seeing more pics of your car.
looking good
mind posting more pics in diff angles..specially the rear..tia
Forgot to mention these are rear wheel drive springs, not sure if they sell AWD ones, but they are advertised at 1.2 front 1.2 rear.
DB-Cooper
Member
Looks good, yeah the Performance AWD is 1.0" front and 1.4" rear. TSportline and UP offer the same drop front and back on AWD Performance, so I'm really curious why Eibach made such a difference, and I'd love to see pics.
While not on their configuration wizard, they do exist:
PRO-KIT Performance Springs (Set of 4 Springs)
While not on their configuration wizard, they do exist:
PRO-KIT Performance Springs (Set of 4 Springs)
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mal_tsla
Member
A lot of these photos look like the car has reverse rake after lowering. Is it just the camera, or does the car look like that in person? It's my #1 reservation...
DB-Cooper
Member
That's what I'm worried about considering the TS/UP springs are the same drop all around and they don't look particularly raked. My stock M3P height appears to be somewhat higher in the front than rear already, so don't want to make it worse.
Sorry to hijack thread, but what spoiler is that? Looks like RPMTesla but much better in your photos.
It is the RPM spoiler. I wasn’t sure about it either from the pictures on website but it turned out better than I had thought.
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Not sure if you were asking about my car, but yes I would say by doing a rough measurement with my fingers the gap in the rear is just slightly smaller than in the front, but it’s very slight. In person you don’t really notice that unless your measuring it...appears more level than anything.
Most cars (including the Model 3) have the appearance of "reverse rake" stock because the fender opening is taller in the front than the rear.
Lowering the car makes this more noticable.
The best way to measure ride height before/after is from a fixed point on the chassis. Failing that, measuring from the top of the fender opening to the center of the hub or the floor are acceptable ways of measuring ride height.
Yeah I kind of had a feeling that the front fender opening is just cut larger than the rear is.
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