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Lowering the Model 3
- Thread starter Cricket88
- Start date
Didn’t want to post pics till she was clean. T sportline for AWD. Funny it seems the front is either a little lower than an inch or the back is a little higher than an inch drop. Didn’t take measurements before but from the floor to the highest arch I’m getting 27” and 27 1/2”. Either way I’m happy...at least it’s not a reverse rake. Now debating putting on spacers or not...
allanak
Member
Unplugged Super Performance (1.5" drop) springs on my P3D+
I had UP do the install at their shop two weeks ago and promptly went for an alignment (a mile from their shop for $75) and then to get wrapped. Considering I've never had a lowered car before, it hasn't been very problematic. One minor scrape due to approach angle entering a steep driveway. While it might be slightly less forgiving over crappy roads, the reduction in body roll when turning in makes up for it IMO. I don't go to the track enough to justify the spend on a full coilover setup, so I'm happy with the ~$800 mod.
I had UP do the install at their shop two weeks ago and promptly went for an alignment (a mile from their shop for $75) and then to get wrapped. Considering I've never had a lowered car before, it hasn't been very problematic. One minor scrape due to approach angle entering a steep driveway. While it might be slightly less forgiving over crappy roads, the reduction in body roll when turning in makes up for it IMO. I don't go to the track enough to justify the spend on a full coilover setup, so I'm happy with the ~$800 mod.
Burrito
Member
Can someone explain lowering springs to me like a child? Lol. Dual motor awd in nj. I have 20” staggered wheels on the way this week which will be in use for warm weather and will use the stock Aeros during winters.
Tsportline are linear/progressive and 1” drop
UP are dual rate and say 1.5”
Eibach I think are 1” too but this thread seems to say they are not. not looking for reverse rake... is that a given if i go with eibach?
I just want to close the gap a bit and have a useable ride all year long on either set of wheels. Never plan on racing since I almost always have 2 car seats in the back, i dont mind a firmer ride, not looking for firmer but if the springs do that then so be it. also, what sort of install costs are typical for springs?
Suggestions?
Tsportline are linear/progressive and 1” drop
UP are dual rate and say 1.5”
Eibach I think are 1” too but this thread seems to say they are not. not looking for reverse rake... is that a given if i go with eibach?
I just want to close the gap a bit and have a useable ride all year long on either set of wheels. Never plan on racing since I almost always have 2 car seats in the back, i dont mind a firmer ride, not looking for firmer but if the springs do that then so be it. also, what sort of install costs are typical for springs?
Suggestions?
Attachments
MSRP doesn't mean that's what they will cost. I last purchased coilers for my S5 which were about $1600 and they are just a tad over $1200 or about 25% off. That means a street price will likely be somewhere north of $400. Still more than most.....
can't seem to see the attachment?
what's the offsets of the 20"? it'll look different if the suspension is stock, when you lower it, you want to have it a little further out (lower offset), that's why you see some folks here run those wheel spacers on stock wheels after they lower
my take on lowering springs is, it's mainly for aesthetics, some may say they feel more planted, but overall, it's to get rid of that unsightly gap for those hate it, imo, tire upgrade makes the most difference on handling on our cars
DB-Cooper
Member
I'll try to explain like a child
So springs surround or are besides struts and work as part of the suspension system. I'll spare how they specifically work in conjunction, but they do dictate the height of the car. Much similar to when you put heavy objects in the trunk, you can feel the car get lower. You can even press down on the trunk and feel the car go down, then spring back up. That's the springs.
In fact, you can remove your stock springs, cut off some of the metal, reinstall and your car will be lower. This is not recommended for a variety of reasons, but people do it, typically to cheaper cars when they're broke
In terms of the spring options, when they mention a height, that is the height lowering from the springs. So a 1" drop and a 1.5" drop spring will effectively lower the car by that amount. It doesn't sound like a lot, but you'd be surprised how much half an inch is. The height of the car is dictated by the springs rates (how stiff the metal is), the weight of the car and other design factors.
Further complicating things for Tesla is that there are three different Tesla setups, RWD, AWD and AWD Performance. All of these utilize different springs, so when shopping or reading, you need to determine which spring anyone is talking about and in what configuration. I have an AWD Performance, so my Eibach posts are not really relevant from a height comparison to someone looking at TS or UP AWD springs. UP has told me in email that you can run AWD springs on P models, this was before they released P model springs. So they fit, but they're just designed for different applications.
In most cases, lowering springs do run stiffer, partially because there's less overall room to travel, so they need to be stiffer and not ride like grandpa's 70s Cadillac as if they compress too much, they'll run out of travel and bottom out. Similarly, most people who lower cars tend to want performance so they don't mind stiffer, so most developers want something appealing on both fronts. Most spring companies also realize their target audience, and as such, the springs available for Teslas aren't overly stiff (like they might be for a Ferrari or other super performance car). They're definitely firmer than stock, but nothing outrageous.
Finally, linear vs progressive just means how spring rates work. A linear spring means it is effectively a single rate/stiffness throughout the spring. Effectively, as the spring compresses against weight/load, it does so at a linear rate. This creates a predictable and consistent spring rate. Progressive springs aim to try to give the best of both worlds. When less compressed and earlier in shock travel, they compress easier and provide a softer ride, but as they compress more, they stiffen up (beyond that of a linear spring) providing more performance under hard cornering or severe bumps. In my decades of lowering cars, I've never really noticed a difference. Remember, you need the spring to be stiff enough to avoid bottoming out, so again, spring rates of lowering springs are typically stiffer than that of stock springs as they have less total travel available. As a result, some people cut/recommend cutting bumpstops to get a little travel back. Progressive springs try to be very stiff at close to the limit to prevent bottoming out and potentially better performance at the limit (and being softer or stock like under less load), while linear springs are stiffer (than stock) all the time.
Here's a decent chart:
Anyways, hope that helps, wrote it in a hurry. A .75"-1.0" drop is sufficient to dramatically increase the looks of the car while providing a compliant ride. Certain steep driveways, etc. may need a bit more care, but there are plenty of cars lower on the road.
Last edited:
Show offI'll try to explain like a child
So springs surround struts and work as part of the suspension system. I'll spare how they specifically work in conjunction, but they do dictate the height of the car. Much similar to when you put heavy objects in the trunk, you can feel the car get lower. You can even press down on the trunk and feel the car go down, then spring back up. That's the springs.
In fact, you can remove your stock springs, cut off some of the metal, reinstall and your car will be lower. This is not recommended for a variety of reasons, but people do it, typically to cheaper cars when they're broke
In terms of the spring options, when they mention a height, that is the height lowering from the springs. So a 1" drop and a 1.5" drop spring will effectively lower the car by that amount. It doesn't sound like a lot, but you'd be surprised how much half an inch is. The height of the car is dictated by the springs rates (how stiff the metal is), the weight of the car and other design factors.
Further complicating things for Tesla is that there are three different Tesla setups, RWD, AWD and AWD Performance. All of these utilize different springs, so when shopping or reading, you need to determine which spring anyone is talking about and in what configuration. I have an AWD Performance, so my Eibach posts are not really relevant from a height comparison to someone looking at TS or UP AWD springs. UP has told me in email that you can run AWD springs on P models, this was before they released P model springs. So they fit, but they're just designed for different applications.
In most cases, lowering springs do run stiffer, partially because there's less overall room to travel, so they need to be stiffer and not ride like grandpa's 70s Cadillac. Similarly, most people who lower cars tend to want performance so they don't mind stiffer. Most spring companies also realize their target audience, and as such, the springs available for Teslas aren't overly stiff. They're definitely firmer, but nothing outrageous.
Finally, linear vs progressive just means how spring rates work. A linear spring means it is effectively a single rate throughout the spring. Effectively, as the spring compresses against the shock travel, it does so at a linear rate. This creates a predictable and consistent spring rate. Progressive springs aim to try to give the best of both worlds. When less compressed and earlier in shock travel, they compress easier and provide a softer ride, but as they compress more, they stiffen up providing more performance under hard cornering or severe bumps. In my decades of lowering cars, I've never really noticed a difference. Remember, you need the spring to be stiff enough to avoid bottoming out, so again, spring rates of lowering springs are typically stiffer than that of stock springs as they have less total travel available. As a result, some people cut/recommend cutting bumpstops to get a little travel back.
Here's a decent chart:
Anyways, hope that helps, wrote it in a hurry. A .75"-1.0" drop is sufficient to dramatically increase the looks of the car while providing a compliant ride. Certain steep driveways, etc. may need a bit more care, but there are plenty of cars lower on the road.
allanak
Member
Burrito
Member
Burrito
Member
I’ll be using these wheels in this setup for summer
Front wheel is 20x9 with 38 offset
Rear wheel is 20x10.5 with 45 offset
I’ll be putting the aero wheels back on from probably oct-May. Lol. Damn NJ weather.
Should (do I need to) I get spacers for the stock wheels or no need besides aesthetics’s in stock scenario.
I suppose the most crucial aspect for me is my drive way is slight sloped. I guess it’s time to take out the ruler and measure my cushion
Front wheel is 20x9 with 38 offset
Rear wheel is 20x10.5 with 45 offset
I’ll be putting the aero wheels back on from probably oct-May. Lol. Damn NJ weather.
Should (do I need to) I get spacers for the stock wheels or no need besides aesthetics’s in stock scenario.
I suppose the most crucial aspect for me is my drive way is slight sloped. I guess it’s time to take out the ruler and measure my cushion
Loving my TSportline Lowering springs! Installed them a month ago. Ride height is perfect. No need to worry about dips and speed bumps. This is how the car should have came!
Daskid
Member
Anybody running 20x10 +X offset 255/35 in the front and 20x11 +X offset 305/30 in the rear without any rubbing issues?
UPDATE!
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about 3-4 weeks with the springs now and i must say.... i am loving them dearly. My offsets are 8.5 in front and 10 in the back.
Rides smooth, looks badass and they are actually giving me the same effieciency if not better than when i had the car stock on 18inch aeros not lowered. Right now im between 280-320 KW/mi compared to the 18s that i was never under 300. one problem i do see is i feel my gas peddle shaking at high speeds of 80 plus mph. can be a balance issue or alignment as i have not gotten it aligned yet as i was told to wait 2 weeks for springs to settle to their final form. if anyone wants to buy my 18 inch aeros let me know. i am located in the south florida location. overall very very please by the drive and feel and efficiency. ill post pics when i can but if u want to check them out check out my instagram: @carlostapiajr. shoot me a DM if you do and i will follow back. i love the tesla community!
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about 3-4 weeks with the springs now and i must say.... i am loving them dearly. My offsets are 8.5 in front and 10 in the back.
Rides smooth, looks badass and they are actually giving me the same effieciency if not better than when i had the car stock on 18inch aeros not lowered. Right now im between 280-320 KW/mi compared to the 18s that i was never under 300. one problem i do see is i feel my gas peddle shaking at high speeds of 80 plus mph. can be a balance issue or alignment as i have not gotten it aligned yet as i was told to wait 2 weeks for springs to settle to their final form. if anyone wants to buy my 18 inch aeros let me know. i am located in the south florida location. overall very very please by the drive and feel and efficiency. ill post pics when i can but if u want to check them out check out my instagram: @carlostapiajr. shoot me a DM if you do and i will follow back. i love the tesla community!
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