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LSD (limited slip differential) anyone?

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Other e-diff, like Mitsubishi Active Central Differential uses clutch packs and pumps. And Rear AYC on Evo was using 2 gears to speed up or slow down the right rear wheel to distribute torque electronically.

ACD uses 1 pump for both ACD and AYC.

AYC uses way more than 2 gears. It has organic clutch plates in 2 packs for left and right distribution, 3 concentric helical gear clusters with 2 additional centre helical gears, and it can distribute torque to left and right wheels. The later SAYC also uses a torque multiplier to increase the torque transfer capacity. This info isn't from Google BTW, I've been rebuilding these diffs along with many, many others for 15 years.
 
ACD uses 1 pump for both ACD and AYC.

AYC uses way more than 2 gears. It has organic clutch plates in 2 packs for left and right distribution, 3 concentric helical gear clusters with 2 additional centre helical gears, and it can distribute torque to left and right wheels. The later SAYC also uses a torque multiplier to increase the torque transfer capacity. This info isn't from Google BTW, I've been rebuilding these diffs along with many, many others for 15 years.

You have more knowledge about diffs than I ever will have of any subject in life.
 
I rebuilt only 1 - mine. Evo X AYC drives right wheel only, but either speeds it up or slows it down which effectively works as distribution both sides. Anyway, it's completely off topic - Model 3 has simple open diff and you actually can feel that. So if UPP didn't notice any interference, you go usually on a track, not afraid to buy a new drive unit from your pocket and have a shop that dealt a lot with differentials - should be recommended option.
 
I think we're in danger of getting too bogged down in the technicalities of one diff vs. another. The ATB is a relatively low cost drop-in replacement which won't have any adverse affect on daily driving but should provide more mechanical grip when the car is driven hard. I had one on my last ICE car and although I'm not trying to compare that situation with this, I was happy with how it worked and the benefits I got from it, so I'm willing to give it a try in my P3D as an experiment.
 
I think we're in danger of getting too bogged down in the technicalities of one diff vs. another. The ATB is a relatively low cost drop-in replacement which won't have any adverse affect on daily driving but should provide more mechanical grip when the car is driven hard. I had one on my last ICE car and although I'm not trying to compare that situation with this, I was happy with how it worked and the benefits I got from it, so I'm willing to give it a try in my P3D as an experiment.
Do both one after another if you can.
 
Evo X AYC drives right wheel only

Sorry for off topic everyone, but this is just not correct, and if you think that then you obviously had your eyes shut when you built your diff. The diff drives both sides equally via either a bog standard open diff (exactly as per Tesla Model 3) on the earlier Evo 4-7 or via a torque multiplier on the later E8-10. Both sides driven directly by a driveshaft attached to both sides of the diff, same as Tesla, 50/50 torque distribution. It then uses clutch packs and gears (12 of them) to bias torque either left or right side, relative to the right hand wheel.
 
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Have you taken yours around Bedford yet?

No, not yet. I’ve just fitted all the MPP arms last week, and am now on hols in the UK visiting parents for first time in 8 months.

So, next stage is sorting the brakes, so looking at making my own bells/brackets and using an AP caliper, or buying an off the shelf solution like MPP stoptech, depending on my time and workload. I push cars very hard on track, so need brakes solution first, otherwise I will damage the standard set-up.
 
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Option 1 - don't tell her.
Option 2 - It's such a small cost to increase the safety of the car to protect you dear. With the extra traction, it could help our family avoid an accident...yada yada
I disagree with #2. It’s actually less safe unless you know how to drive with one. Especially on the street because you rarely use it enough to get used to it. I put one on my bmw 335 that was tuned. It gave me sooo oversteer. I almost put it into a wall on the inside of a turn as that was more oversteer than I had ever experienced and it was completely unexpected. If it was safer you would see it a lot more on OEMs.
 
I disagree with #2. It’s actually less safe unless you know how to drive with one. Especially on the street because you rarely use it enough to get used to it. I put one on my bmw 335 that was tuned. It gave me sooo oversteer. I almost put it into a wall on the inside of a turn as that was more oversteer than I had ever experienced and it was completely unexpected. If it was safer you would see it a lot more on OEMs.

lol, it's simply an excuse to tell the wife so you can buy it. Chances are she wouldn't know the intricacies of how LSD works and if she actually does know, you won't even have to make up an excuse.

On a serious note, putting LSD on a Tesla would be quite different than LSD on a tuned 335. The Tesla's traction control is much better at managing traction.
 
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lol, it's simply an excuse to tell the wife so you can buy it. Chances are she wouldn't know the intricacies of how LSD works and if she actually does know, you won't even have to make up an excuse.

On a serious note, putting LSD on a Tesla would be quite different than LSD on a tuned 335. The Tesla's traction control is much better at managing traction.
I had an ATB on a 335 also. Even in sport+ mode you'd have to be driving pretty recklessly to put it into a wall. There's no point modifying any car with something like a LSD if your skill level isn't up to it.
 
..........a properly set-up plated diff is night and day better, there is no comparison. The majority of people I see on track are so far off the limits of their car and the track, the most value for going faster is driver training, not adding hardware. If you’re driving isn’t smooth, and you’re unsettling the car, brake application will be due to stability control, and an LSD won’t help. If you’re pro-level fast, and traction is the limiting factor (not stability control) I’m sure a helical LSD will help.

Agree on all counts. Surprised this hasn't come up, but I'll bring it up. The biggest advantage of a plate diff is under braking. A torque biasing diff will not keep the wheels turning the same speed under braking. As I moved through the groups and got faster, my first experience with non-open diffs was under acceleration, no longer spinning the inside wheel. Not a super fast car, a stock 944 Turbo S. But I never realized how much it was helping under braking. Then I bought a 968 with a torque biasing diff. Rebuild it, it was a better, faster car (my business partner set a couple of track records with it, and won the PCA 944 SP3 championship a few years ago with it). But dear lord, going into 10A at Road Atlanta at about 140, braking hard, I've never been so scared in my life. Rear end was all over the place. A friend who was behind me thought I was going to lose it. Sure I was able to adjust the dampers a little to help slow the weight transfer, but that was right where I learned about the advantage of a plate diff. It seems with bigger and faster cars, most seem to go to torque biasing, but I"ll take a good plate diff any day of the week.
 
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UP markets this for track use and states that most average daily drivers would not see any benefits. However they also state that it has a benefit in inclement weather such as snow and ice - and I assume that's not referring to racing in snow and ice. I wonder how this lsd would perform in winter driving conditions?
 
UP markets this for track use and states that most average daily drivers would not see any benefits. However they also state that it has a benefit in inclement weather such as snow and ice - and I assume that's not referring to racing in snow and ice. I wonder how this lsd would perform in winter driving conditions?

A helical diff will give you no benefit on snow and ice compared to the stock open diff. A helical diff can only transfer across the axle a multiplication of the torque that the wheel with least grip can use for traction. So zero traction means a multiplication of zero torque is transferred to the wheel with more grip, same as an open diff.
 
A helical diff will give you no benefit on snow and ice compared to the stock open diff. A helical diff can only transfer across the axle a multiplication of the torque that the wheel with least grip can use for traction. So zero traction means a multiplication of zero torque is transferred to the wheel with more grip, same as an open diff.

Interesting. So I guess UPs references to benefits in inclement weather are false advertising?
 
A helical diff will give you no benefit on snow and ice compared to the stock open diff. A helical diff can only transfer across the axle a multiplication of the torque that the wheel with least grip can use for traction. So zero traction means a multiplication of zero torque is transferred to the wheel with more grip, same as an open diff.
Also former Evo owner here- this not completely true. I live in snow country have probably drove an evo more than 40k miles on just snow. It is brilliant here, like no other vehicle I've ever driven. There is traction on snow and ice, especially with modern snow tires, and the helical and clutch pack lsd will happily deliver unbelievable acceleration both in a straight line and sideways. I don't own a Tesla, but this topic is why I'm lurking. I'm interested in m3 snow dynamics and this thread gives me hope.
 
Also former Evo owner here- this not completely true. I live in snow country have probably drove an evo more than 40k miles on just snow. It is brilliant here, like no other vehicle I've ever driven. There is traction on snow and ice, especially with modern snow tires, and the helical and clutch pack lsd will happily deliver unbelievable acceleration both in a straight line and sideways. I don't own a Tesla, but this topic is why I'm lurking. I'm interested in m3 snow dynamics and this thread gives me hope.

Yeah, perhaps I oversimplified my answer. For some reason I was assuming summer tyre usage on snow, which is how most people (wrongly) in the UK do it.

With proper snow tyres, which produce decent grip on snow and ice, a helical diff will be able to transfer torque across the axle.