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M3P+ - What mileage for 100% charge?

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Charged up to 100% last week for a long trip (250 miles) and was surprised to see the car only reported 310 miles of charge.

Where does the 329 mile figure come from stated on their website when the car won’t charge past 310?

In other news, the car only managed about 230 miles but I had aircon on a decent whack and a raspberry pi zero plugged in.
 
Charged up to 100% last week for a long trip (250 miles) and was surprised to see the car only reported 310 miles of charge.

Where does the 329 mile figure come from stated on their website when the car won’t charge past 310?

In other news, the car only managed about 230 miles but I had aircon on a decent whack and a raspberry pi zero plugged in.

329 is the regulator mandated WLTP test figure, which is generally held to be nonsense.

IIRC the in-car display of mileage is based on US EPA testing, which is believed to be more realistic.

Your real world range will depend on many factors including driving style, external temp, use of AC, tyre pressure, tyre size, use of aeros, etc. etc.
 
310 is meant to be the real world range and 325 for the LR, you can probably get the 329 (WLTP) driving at certain economy speeds

OK - So I should never expect the car to say ~330 on a full charge - but if I'm making good use of regen and in a sealed chamber where there's no wind resistance and it's held at a certain temperature and I only weight 2st and I never accelerate and I don't charge anything and I apply a wind repelling ceramic wax and I never stop - THEN, I should expect ~330? Sounds reasonable.

FWIW I never expected to get 330 - I just wondered why it didn't register as such on 100% charge.
 
If my experience of the i3 is anything to go by, the total miles is a bit of a misnomer. That number will rise, fall, stay the same for miles depending on how you drive and what auxiliary power consumption there is (aircon, headlights, wipers, etc).

I've charged my i3 up to 100% on one charger and it's said it had 206 miles range. Another time, again to 100%, it says 195. This morning on the drive in my range started on 110 and went up to about 113 half way to work, after about 10 miles.

230 miles sounds low to me though, how much battery percentage was left? Maybe you've got a lead foot? :)
 
I was under the impression that the 'full charge' figure also takes into account your recent trips. So it uses your recent trips to estimate your driving style/usage?

That's how I think it works on the Leaf, so was what I was expecting on the Model 3. If I remember correctly the advertised range is 126 but at 100% in the morning the displayed figure varies anywhere in the 100 - 110 range.
 
OK - So I should never expect the car to say ~330 on a full charge - but if I'm making good use of regen and in a sealed chamber where there's no wind resistance and it's held at a certain temperature and I only weight 2st and I never accelerate and I don't charge anything and I apply a wind repelling ceramic wax and I never stop - THEN, I should expect ~330? Sounds reasonable.

FWIW I never expected to get 330 - I just wondered why it didn't register as such on 100% charge.

No just drive at 55-60mph and according to the range chart you should get 322-349 miles, this chart may help Tesla Range Table - Teslike.com

310 for P3+ and 325 for LR was the EPA stated amount of range until they recently changed it to show the WLTP range, if you 310 showing for a P3+ I would be happy as that is the real world range if you are lucky.

I don't know about WLTP but these figures are usually over the top and shouldn't be expected from a EV used in real world conditions, your actual displayed range may differ based on your driving also.
 
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If my experience of the i3 is anything to go by, the total miles is a bit of a misnomer. That number will rise, fall, stay the same for miles depending on how you drive and what auxiliary power consumption there is (aircon, headlights, wipers, etc).

Tesla do NOT do that. The miles remaining display is a fixed multiplier of the remaining battery energy estimate.

IMO, this is much more useful than the Guess-o-meter as provided in other vehicles - with the Tesla scheme you need to apply your own factor for how you intend to drive on the journey ahead of you, but with the GoM scheme you not only have to do that but you also have to remember how you drove the previous 50 miles which could have been last week or your spouse driving or whatever.
 
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Guess-o-meter

I like that :)

Seen the advice of "change estimate to % of battery and figure out roughly how many miles you do per %"

Wonder how much inconvenience my SR+ will present. Not much I suspect. But next summer I'd like to be able to get to the beach and back without charging and sentry mode enabled. Which is roughly a 120 mile round trip. 30% to get there, 30% to get back ~1%/h for sentry mode for 10 hours, leaves 30% buffer. Realistic?
 
Seen the advice of "change estimate to % of battery and figure out roughly how many miles you do per %"

Some people prefer the %, personally I prefer the miles - set to 'typical' mode it give a number that I know I could achieve if I drove gently, and that gives an immediate indication of whether my intended journey is easy/tight/impossible.

In the old days (early software) the drill while driving was to keep subtracting the miles-to-go from the displayed range to give the margin, and if it was decreasing too rapidly you knew to slow down or divert. Nowadays the software gives you much more help for individual journeys, so the displayed range is only for a backup indication or for rough planning on a trip with multiple legs.

Wonder how much inconvenience my SR+ will present. Not much I suspect. But next summer I'd like to be able to get to the beach and back without charging and sentry mode enabled. Which is roughly a 120 mile round trip. 30% to get there, 30% to get back ~1%/h for sentry mode for 10 hours, leaves 30% buffer. Realistic?

Very likely realistic, but for a simple trip like that the car will tell you. Just put the destination into the navigation and it will tell you predicted battery% both at destination and for a return to where you started - you can then decide if that's enough margin for your taste. This estimate is much more accurate than the 'fuel gauge', because it is able to know exactly where you are going and what speed you are likely to drive on the roads in question. And if it is looking tight, you can keep an eye on it while driving to check that it's working out as planned - the estimate is continuously updated.

You will form your own view on how much margin you need - personally, I'm willing to run down to single figure percentages when heading for home, because I trust my home charging and I also know where my 'last chance' places to stop are on all the main routes back to home. If I'm heading for somewhere unfamiliar or remote, I will want much more margin.
 
You can also use the energy graph to see how well you can beat the predicted battery usage. My PB is going from arrival at 1-2% to 5%.

Driving with spirit also changes my consumption from 330-350W/mi to 450-550W/mi.

I’m sure if you drive sensibly you can achieve high 200mi. Worst case scenario is that you’ll need to top-up at an EV ready petrol station for a few minutes to get a few more miles.

As mentioned before EV and ICE driving fuel consumption are all dependent upon how you drive. The problem in EVs is that the numbers are much more transparent leading to serious range anxiety. With a little bit of forward planning you’ll get to know the cars limits.
 
310 is meant to be the real world range and 325 for the LR, you can probably get the 329 (WLTP) driving at certain economy speeds

310 is AWD LR (Performance or Not any Wheel or Tire)
325 is RWD LR (With any Wheel or Tire)

AWD (Performance or Not) has a "LR" Battery.

What you actually get on anything is another matter entirely.

The "310" or "325" is based on Aero Wheels that EPA measured and respectively mapped to 100% SOC.

The 310 or 325 on your "battery meter" is somewhat an arbitrary scale, which is why some folks argue you should switch it to percent full.
 
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310 is AWD LR (Performance or Not any Wheel or Tire)
325 is RWD LR (With any Wheel or Tire)

AWD (Performance or Not) has a "LR" Battery.

What you actually get on anything is another matter entirely.

The "310" or "325" is based on Aero Wheels that EPA measured and respectively mapped to 100% SOC.

The 310 or 325 on your "battery meter" is somewhat an arbitrary scale, which is why some folks argue you should switch it to percent full.

Yes I forgot 310 is for both but realistically the 18 inch wheels are going to get a better range than the 20s
 
@drivingmrte5la When I had my P3+ in London, I was getting 308 at 100% charge. Bear in mind, you won't get close to that in the real world. The tyres fitted to the 20 inch wheels are very soft and sticky (which is great for handling), hence high rolling resistance, and you'll be slurping electricity compared to the harder tyres on the 18 inch wheels.
 
Yes I forgot 310 is for both but realistically the 18 inch wheels are going to get a better range than the 20s

Wheels don't matter on what the Battery Meter reads !!!

Use Trip computer or Energy App for actual range.

I run 19" OEM wheels and typically get 325 of actual range on my AWD. But it still reads just under 310 on a full battery.