Range on display remains 507km at 100%, and typical as well remains typical of M3P P2021.
For everything but Performance 2020 vehicles, adjusting wheel type does not adjust the rated line on the consumption screen, to my knowledge. (The reason it changed in 2020 is because Tesla tested & sold all three types of Performance vehicles in 2020 and provided an official EPA rating for each.)
However, as you've discovered, of course wheels (and much more importantly
tires, though wheel aero design matters at speed) make a big difference in efficiency.
@AlanSubie4Life could you tell me if there is a possibility to evaluate consumption constants of my car, knowing that all informations on the energy screen are not all right.
You can always just take the projected range*recent efficiency / rated miles remaining to give you the approximate constant for your vehicle. So this is expected.
It won't change depending on wheel configuration unless you have a 2020 Performance, AFAIK.
Is typical corresponds to the average consumption at a constant speed, on a flat road and about 20 ° Celcius (for example)
The rated line is related to the nominal full pack energy of the car when new (a value decided by Tesla, not what SMT or other tools show, though they are pretty close and sometimes match the "FPWN" value exactly - not in 2021 though!!!), divided by the EPA rated miles for that vehicle. So that efficiency line is based on a combination of driving conditions according to the EPA cycle definition, scaled by 0.7 (actually ~0.747).
And then for good measure Tesla adds 5Wh/mi or 3Wh/km to this calculated value for the actual line position. (No idea why, though it may have something to do with the 76kWh vs. 77.8kWh discrepancy in 2018 because 77.8kWh/310rmi = 251Wh/rmi and 76kWh/310rmi = 245Wh/rmi. Just a guess though and that wouldn't explain why they're still doing it!)
Since that value includes the buffer, you have to do at least 4.5% better consumption than the constant (even more relative to the line due to the 3Wh/km silly offset) to get "mile-for-rated-mile" rolloff. So in my car the line is at 152Wh/km (76kWh/499rkm) +3Wh/km or so (155Wh/km, 250Wh/mi), and I have to do better than about 144Wh/km to get km-for-rated-km rolloff. In your car the line position is around 162Wh/km, actual constant is ~159Wh/rkm, and you need to do about ~150Wh/km. (I've included an extra 1% loss factor in these calculations because that's just how it works most of the time.)