That sounds both very likely.
- EM has stated very clearly in the past the LFP is the future for the standard range cars.
- LG in Poland can probably provide the new LG 5L packs for Giga Berlin in the initial phase.
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That sounds both very likely.
That sounds both very likely.
- EM has stated very clearly in the past the LFP is the future for the standard range cars.
- LG in Poland can probably provide the new LG 5L packs for Giga Berlin in the initial phase.
My appointment is for next week. So not yet.Did you get into the service center yet to have them take a look?
Charge daily.Many thanks for the fast reply.
I have not thought about this approach. Something to test apparently. I'll set my max charge to 60% for the next couple of weeks then ... the vacation is over and 60% should be plenty for my daily needs. Should I let it go down to 40% or less before charging it back to 60%? Or just charge it when I get home no matter the SOC?
Make sense that Tesla Navigation would underestimate if the pack has more capacity than it thought.My appointment is for next week. So not yet.
Meanwhile I did a 2700 km roadtrip last week with lots of Autobahn and supercharging. SMT now shows around 74.1 kWh Nominal full pack and 543km of Full Rated range. I also consistently arrived at Superchargers with more SoC than what Tesla navigation and ABRP (which doesn't know anything about my car, except that it is a 82kWh model) were predicting. Fair amount of roadworks and soms traffic jams though. CAC is now 213 (min), 217 (avg), 218 (max) [Ah], cell imbalance 4 mV.
These are the best numbers I have seen so far. I'm curious to see whether full nominal pack will ever reach 80 kWh... So far so good though.
Thank you for your reply. To be honest, I could not care less about the actual NFP value.All other procedures( except the ”just charge to 50-60% daily”), like trying to ”up” the NFP will in most cases cause more ”real” wear on the battery. If you feel a high Nominal Full Pack is important and its worth causing a little unnecessary wear, use the procedures. Otherwise, accept a slightly lower NFP and use the battery by the best practise to minimise degradation. In the long run the latter will be better.
Well ... it comes out as 76kWh ... so, adding the low buffer it will take that value to a NFP of about 79kWh ...
Can you link to the post where you saw this? I know we have the sticky post but pretty sure it makes clear that this includes the buffer. (Hmm...it is ambiguous, but it doesn't say it does not include the buffer.)(A*B*100/C = battery NFP w/o buffer in Wh):
Well ... it comes out as 76kWh ... so, adding the low buffer it will take that value to a NFP of about 79kWh ...
Using other readings, later in the evening, with the battery at 70%, it comes out roughly the same.
Still, SMT shows now NFP 76.1 kWh ... Now I'm
I thought that the car is showing the estimated distance till 0% is displayed on screen. From that point further you should have the "reserve" .. bottom buffer of 3.5 kwh. The tests performed so far (that I read about online) are showing that after the car shows 0% (and 0Km), you still have about 40Km (25 miles).This value INCLUDES THE BUFFER.
the buffer thing was my own "creation" .. because I consider it logical not to include the buffer in any data shown to the user. The user should drive based on a battery w/o a buffer, like in an ICE car where the "empty tank" indicator means empty , even if you still have few litters left for an extra distance to be able to limp to a refuelling station..it is ambiguous, but it doesn't say it does not include the buffer
There is a saying in my home country: "When 2 persons tells you you are drunk, you are probably drunk" .... so I'll drop my conclusions and go with yours ... I have to admit it is logical and complete, even if I have the tendency to argue against it.That Energy screen calculation includes the buffer.
I thought that the car is showing the estimated distance till 0% is displayed on screen.
The first part is correct, the second statement is not. As you can tell from the formula and SMT, these calculations of full capacity (dividing by SoC%) give a result that includes the buffer. The energy screen does not include the buffer when you get to 0%, and it includes the entire buffer when you are at 100%. That's why dividing by SoC% works. (Since SoC% never reflects the existence of the buffer.)The tests performed so far (that I read about online) are showing that after the car shows 0% (and 0Km), you still have about 40Km (25 miles).
This means 100% battery and projected distance, is w/o the buffer. I might be wrong though.
It looks like these endless calculations I'm being pulled into just take away from the joy of owning this nice car. I'll peek every now and then into SMT to check the state of the battery ... as long as it will stay above 70kWh it will probably be fine.
Hello Guys,
Following the last information here is an update of my 2 batteries tables.
Thank you @eivissa for the homologation documents, it's precious !
I believe some stuff doesn't need a question mark:Hello Guys,
Following the last information here is an update of my 2 batteries tables.
Thank you @eivissa for the homologation documents, it's precious !
Its blurry. Users are reporting a stronger punch, but the Tesla API loggs consistently 20KW less power. We have no Scan My Tesla values yet. I wouldnt wait for it I guess. They are surely not gonna make it more powerful as long as Fremont isnt using this drive unit.Any real world feedback on the the hairpin Rev II drive unit?
just got a MIC SR+ allocated with 8th digit A so first gen - wondering if I should try to get reallocated. Thanks
Interesting thanks. Are those users doing a like for like MIC vs MIC or previous had Fremont cars? In which case the power difference could be down to the 800a performance motor or correlate with flatter power curve at all SOCs with LFP?Its blurry. Users are reporting a stronger punch, but the Tesla API loggs consistently 20KW less power. We have no Scan My Tesla values yet. I wouldnt wait for it I guess. They are surely not gonna make it more powerful as long as Fremont isnt using this drive unit.
Since it is supposed to replace it, there is hope that it is more efficient / producing less heat.
Yes, most feedback is from users who already had a Q4/2020 MIC LFP SR+. The Q1/2021 Fremont SR+ should feel different overall.Interesting thanks. Are those users doing a like for like MIC vs MIC or previous had Fremont cars?