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MASTER THREAD: 2021 Model 3 - Charge data, battery discussion etc

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Got my ODB2 connector and had a quick look at some LG 82 kWh data. What say ye O' Battery Whisperers? Can I expect the numbers to go up a bit? Not even past 200 km yet.
By the way, is there a security risk in leaving the bluetooth dongle connected? Could someone in theory unlock the car with ODB access?
 

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Got my ODB2 connector and had a quick look at some LG 82 kWh data. What say ye O' Battery Whisperers? Can I expect the numbers to go up a bit? Not even past 200 km yet.
By the way, is there a security risk in leaving the bluetooth dongle connected? Could someone in theory unlock the car with ODB access?
The LG battery is not 82kWh, it is 78.8 Full pack when new. To reach the WLTP of 614km about 79kWh is needed, and I think eivissa had some hope that the Nominal Full pack would creep up after delivery( lets all hope that :) )

There might be some cycles needed for the battery pack to wake up( together with the BMS), so wait untill about 1000km, and do a full charge and also run tge battery down to 20% or lower, to “show the battery capacity for the BMS”.
 
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The LG battery is not 82kWh, it is 78.8 Full pack when new. To reach the WLTP of 614km about 79kWh is needed, and I think eivissa had some hope that the Nominal Full pack would creep up after delivery( lets all hope that :) )

There might be some cycles needed for the battery pack to wake up( together with the BMS), so wait untill about 1000km, and do a full charge and also run tge battery down to 20% or lower, to “show the battery capacity for the BMS”.
Hi AAKEE, is there a way to find Full Pack When New without buying a Scan My Tesla ?
 
Hi AAKEE, is there a way to find Full Pack When New without buying a Scan My Tesla ?
Yes, in most cases.

[Full Pack When New] is the marked specified capacity, think of it as about the same as the horsepower-number for a ICE car. It might not hit the exakt number if tested but probably quite close.

For EU, you get a code( it is probably present on the registration paper).

For model3:
E3D/E3CD = 77.8kWh
E3LD* = 82.1 kWh
E5D/E5CD = 74.5 ( from my memory, might be slighlty of?)
E5LD = 78.8kWh

*) Some 2021 Model3 P from 2020 or early 2021, and maybe some M3LR with the Panasonic 82kWh have the code E3D despite having the 82kWh battery. This is because Tesla didnt start use the L for the new bigger packs and C for the classic smaller until sometime during the spring 2021.
If in doubt, check the battery sticker and pist the number here, then you will get definitive info.
 
Yes, in most cases.

[Full Pack When New] is the marked specified capacity, think of it as about the same as the horsepower-number for a ICE car. It might not hit the exakt number if tested but probably quite close.

For EU, you get a code( it is probably present on the registration paper).

For model3:
E3D/E3CD = 77.8kWh
E3LD* = 82.1 kWh
E5D/E5CD = 74.5 ( from my memory, might be slighlty of?)
E5LD = 78.8kWh

*) Some 2021 Model3 P from 2020 or early 2021, and maybe some M3LR with the Panasonic 82kWh have the code E3D despite having the 82kWh battery. This is because Tesla didnt start use the L for the new bigger packs and C for the classic smaller until sometime during the spring 2021.
If in doubt, check the battery sticker and pist the number here, then you will get definitive info.
Thank you. As I suspected I have the E5CD the smallest battery they made☹️
 
Good in what way?
-The capacity is probably good enough.
-The charging speed likewise.
-The range most certanly is good enough.

The real difference in range between the E5CD and E3LD is about 8%, or maybe 35-40km. Do you really need those?

If you hadn’t red about differevnt batteries on the forum you’d probably be (unknowingly) happy with the E5CD. :)
 
-The capacity is probably good enough.
-The charging speed likewise.
-The range most certanly is good enough.

The real difference in range between the E5CD and E3LD is about 8%, or maybe 35-40km. Do you really need those?

If you hadn’t red about differevnt batteries on the forum you’d probably be (unknowingly) happy with the E5CD. :)
Thank you for trying to make me feel good😀👍
Just one more question....is there a code on the registration document that will tell you if it has a heat pump?
 
I think that the next question will cause a lot of criticism in my address, but still I will ask ...
With the advent of cold weather, early tesla user reviews of LFP batteries suggest that they LFP don't like cold. Question: And if this battery is insulated from below for the cold season? (for example, 5 mm thick self-adhesive thermal insulation sheets). And in the spring - to remove the insulation. Along with changing tires and wheels)) How much heat does the LFP battery lose at its bottom? What is the temperature of the bottom of the bateria after a long trip?
 
Thank you for trying to make me feel good😀👍
Just one more question....is there a code on the registration document that will tell you if it has a heat pump?
Not directly. But the model year code in the WIN should be a sharp indication.
All facelift model3 have heatpump, I think.

If the car has ”Crome delete” around the wibdows( black window lists), it is a 2021 or newer with heat pump.

As a answer to Bouba for Jonatas question:
-No, E5D/E5CD is not a LFP battery, it is a NMC, close related to Teslas usual NCA.
 
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Not directly. But the model year code in the WIN should be a sharp indication.
All facelift model3 have heatpump, I think.

If the car has ”Crome delete” around the wibdows( black window lists), it is a 2021 or newer with heat pump.
Yes, it’s the new design 2021 M3 but it’s made in China. Most information online is only about the Fremont cars, and it’s always difficult to know what’s in a MIC Tesla
 
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Thanks for the detailed info!
I measured the outlet some time ago and if I remember correctly it showed 120V. Now I wonder if this perticular one is 14-30. 🤔
I'll check again on Monday and report back.
Ok, so I just double checked the receptacle and confirmed it is a 14-30(not 15-30 as I initially thought).
Attached are the measurements and actual photos. Is it just me or something with the voltage doesn't add up?
There are 14-30 to 14-50 adapters available so wondering if it'll work.
Adapter Only
Adapter Cable
 

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Ok, so I just double checked the receptacle and confirmed it is a 14-30(not 15-30 as I initially thought).
Attached are the measurements and actual photos. Is it just me or something with the voltage doesn't add up?
There are 14-30 to 14-50 adapters available so wondering if it'll work.
Adapter Only
Adapter Cable
Looks like your Neutral is hot...? I'm no electrician, but if you only have two phase power in the house, then two of the phases should cancel out and you should get a 0V reading between W and one of the hot. It's a bit confusing. Can you see how it it wired at the panel?
 
Looks like your Neutral is hot...? I'm no electrician, but if you only have two phase power in the house, then two of the phases should cancel out and you should get a 0V reading between W and one of the hot. It's a bit confusing. Can you see how it it wired at the panel?
It's not at my house but at my place of work. I think I can trace it back to the panel(as that particular outlet is not labeled).
 
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So I have a couple of questions on optimal taking care of battery, also based on your teaching AAKEE.
Guidance I follow from you is
- Low SOC and rather more frequent smaller charges.
- Try to stay during night on around 30% and then charge not to long before departure and if possible to max SOC 57% (especially in hot weather)
- Try to stay between 15-57% unless you need more

A:
But I hear/read again and again statements like
- "a happy Tesla is a plugged in/charging Tesla"
- "Let it stay plugged in and it then have right temperature
I assume they mean plugged in but with a limit on charge%

B:
Also I have been told several times from different people that I once a month should charge it to 100% and also run it really low to recalibrate the battery, which will also help save the battery

What ire comments to A and B - True or False ?
 
So I have a couple of questions on optimal taking care of battery, also based on your teaching AAKEE.
Guidance I follow from you is
- Low SOC and rather more frequent smaller charges.
- Try to stay during night on around 30% and then charge not to long before departure and if possible to max SOC 57% (especially in hot weather)
- Try to stay between 15-57% unless you need more

A:
But I hear/read again and again statements like
- "a happy Tesla is a plugged in/charging Tesla"
- "Let it stay plugged in and it then have right temperature
I assume they mean plugged in but with a limit on charge%

B:
Also I have been told several times from different people that I once a month should charge it to 100% and also run it really low to recalibrate the battery, which will also help save the battery

What ire comments to A and B - True or False ?
I plug my car in every time I park in the garage, because i charge every night.
But I have set the charging to begin late at night, so it is ready one hour or so before I leave for work. This gives a low SOC during the night. And, as known, I charge quite low.

If you park outside in really cold weather the battery needs to be heated if the car has been parked for long time( the car does this automatically). It will use more energy but if any heating is needed before the drive next day, the difference might not be that big. The ”trick” to charge asap on arrival, is a electric bill saving trick, not s battery saving trick. But for cold season outside, calendar aging is low anyway so it do not matter that much).

The battery itself wont profit from once-a-month 100% charging, Long range cars/batteries. The only ”maybe” gain is that the BMS is supposed to be mire accurate. ( I get higher charge every now and then from actual need for travel etc, but now Its five-six weeks since the last full charge, and the BMS says about the same kWh). In most cases the BMS is onntrack anyway, I guess.

To charge to 100% and run it really low do not save the battery. Its a BMS Calibration procedure to get the miles on the screen higher, but it does only that = increase a number on the screen. Calibrating BMS causes a slight extra wear on the battery( SOC higher then needed for some hours, not a big problem but to understand that it do not help the battery at all.

Run it low, and stay low as per the statements in your first part of the post will save the battery.

-Low SOC during sleep.
-Small cycles (charge often)
-Do not use a higher charging target than you need. Keeps the cycles lower in the range and helps having low SOC at night.
 
I plug my car in every time I park in the garage, because i charge every night.
But I have set the charging to begin late at night, so it is ready one hour or so before I leave for work. This gives a low SOC during the night. And, as known, I charge quite low.

If you park outside in really cold weather the battery needs to be heated if the car has been parked for long time( the car does this automatically). It will use more energy but if any heating is needed before the drive next day, the difference might not be that big. The ”trick” to charge asap on arrival, is a electric bill saving trick, not s battery saving trick. But for cold season outside, calendar aging is low anyway so it do not matter that much).

The battery itself wont profit from once-a-month 100% charging, Long range cars/batteries. The only ”maybe” gain is that the BMS is supposed to be mire accurate. ( I get higher charge every now and then from actual need for travel etc, but now Its five-six weeks since the last full charge, and the BMS says about the same kWh). In most cases the BMS is onntrack anyway, I guess.

To charge to 100% and run it really low do not save the battery. Its a BMS Calibration procedure to get the miles on the screen higher, but it does only that = increase a number on the screen. Calibrating BMS causes a slight extra wear on the battery( SOC higher then needed for some hours, not a big problem but to understand that it do not help the battery at all.

Run it low, and stay low as per the statements in your first part of the post will save the battery.

-Low SOC during sleep.
-Small cycles (charge often)
-Do not use a higher charging target than you need. Keeps the cycles lower in the range and helps having low SOC at night.
Hi AAKEE, thank you very much for your valuable guidance. However I have a question related to the charge asap upon arrival. I have read that this is good for battery health as you are charging it when it is warm, and it seems it is better to charge when the battery is warm than when it is cold... Please, could you comment about this point? Thanks!
 
Hi AAKEE, thank you very much for your valuable guidance. However I have a question related to the charge asap upon arrival. I have read that this is good for battery health as you are charging it when it is warm, and it seems it is better to charge when the battery is warm than when it is cold... Please, could you comment about this point? Thanks!
Well, slow charging, as a WC or any AC charging(max 11kW = 1/7 C) is very friendly to the battery. Litihum batteries do not like to be charged when the cells are sub freezing, but that will be taken car of by the BMS. The battery will be heated to non freezing levels before charging.
I can not se any risk for the battery by charging ”later”. I charge like this always, except SuC, and after 30027km I still have full range, and virtually no degradation. There has to be some, but it do not show right now. If it wanst good for the battery I probably wouldnt have no decrease in range.

But if it is sub freezing temps and the car need to be charged witht the supplied travel ”charger”( ”UMC?), it will take long time to heat the battery if it has cooled down. In that case charging asap after arrival is recommended.

SuC/fast charging = much better at higher temps, 40C or more.
Normal charging, as long as it is not below 0C, its good.
 
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