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Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide

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Looks like I’m making a 2hr round trip to Miami to get the Bryant version. Will the Hubbell faceplate be the one to get while I’m down there at grainger or is there something else from grainger I can get that’s cheaper?

I’m attaching a screenshot of what I’m driving to Miami for… I’m starting my ride down now. I’m guessing the electrician should have a steel electrical box that will fit this outlet and faceplate? Should I buy a certain box and mud plate or similar while I’m down there? Is there a cheaper faceplate that I can pick up from them?
There's a lot of notes in this thread somewhere about it, but if you are picking up in person just confirm it fits before buying (it should).
 
Wow, Hubbell's are $148 now. That's about a 50% increase in the last year. Thought these were made in the US, so I cannot imagine a supply chain issue from China being the cause for the increase.
It has been said here, but I will reiterate that the Utilitech from Lowes at around $10 works perfectly. I replaced a crappy Leviton with it and zero problems, no heat.
 


$98 on Zoro, $88 on Kelly & Hayes
Really good price.. I have HBL9450A, great industrial quality, don't cheap out on something like this... Get quality vs cheap
 
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It has been said here, but I will reiterate that the Utilitech from Lowes at around $10 works perfectly. I replaced a crappy Leviton with it and zero problems, no heat.
I agree. The Utilitech is far and away better than most of the "cheap" outlets. To me it is either buy the Utilitech from Lowes or get the Bryant/Hubbell.

My post on it was below for a 14-30 solution at my parents house:

 
I agree. The Utilitech is far and away better than most of the "cheap" outlets. To me it is either buy the Utilitech from Lowes or get the Bryant/Hubbell.

My post on it was below for a 14-30 solution at my parents house:

I did a close inspection of the Utilitech vs the Leviton and the first thing I noticed was that the Leviton only covers half the prong length on the plug, whereas the Utilitech makes contact over the entire length. That seemed to be the source of the heat. Imagine inserting a 14-50 plug into the outlet just half way... that would likely cause problems with any brand of outlet. Tesla states to use an "industrial grade outlet" and the Utilitech is listed as such, the Leviton is not.
 
Well, I already drove an hour to grainger to pickup the Bryant so I can return the $158 (after tax) Hubbell to Amazon when it shows up! I’m just surface mounting this on a concrete garage wall. I’m guessing I should go with the 42cu in RACO box for the added space? It’s just plain steel and the cover for the box is $20 (twice the price of the box) because it’s galvanized steel), seems like a dumb idea? Can I get away with a basic 30 cu in box with the Bryant?

Or can I just use a actual finished wall plate instead of an exposed cover plate?
 
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Well, I already drove an hour to grainger to pickup the Bryant so I can return the $158 (after tax) Hubbell to Amazon when it shows up! I’m just surface mounting this on a concrete garage wall. I’m guessing I should go with the 42cu in RACO box for the added space? It’s just plain steel and the cover for the box is $20 (twice the price of the box) because it’s galvanized steel), seems like a dumb idea? Can I get away with a basic 30 cu in box with the Bryant?

Or can I just use a actual finished wall plate instead of an exposed cover plate?
Another fun fact: RACO is a Hubbell owned entity like Bryant as well.

I used the 2 gang RACO box to install the 14-30 outlet at my parents. The space gets tight towards the back but you shouldn't have a problem. Not sure if the Bryant is larger. Can always just take the Bryant to Lowes and see what works and what doesn't. Make sure your screw holes line up and work also.

 
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E6B4BE14-E91B-4971-B40B-0959A3DB4194.jpeg

I think I’m ready for the electrician tonight. Thanks everyone!
 
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View attachment 775799
I think I’m ready for the electrician tonight. Thanks everyone!
I guess I was too late to point out, but Ace Hardware stocks plates that are compatible. But the Hubbell plate, while being more expensive, still pales in comparison to the cost difference between the two receptacles.

I have a very long post here about various compatible plates with the non-standard 2.465" diameter hole:
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide

About the boxes, that is less of an issue (basically any standard box should work) and your electrician should be able to figure it out.
 
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I guess I was too late to point out, but Ace Hardware stocks plates that are compatible. But the Hubbell plate, while being more expensive, still pales in comparison to the cost difference between the two receptacles.

I have a very long post here about various compatible plates with the non-standard 2.465" diameter hole:
Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide

About the boxes, that is less of an issue (basically any standard box should work) and your electrician should be able to figure it out.
I actually stopped at Ace on the way back home to buy a box and plate as literally no one (Grainger, Home Depot, Lowes, other electrical supply houses) else had the proper plate in all of South Florida. Figured I'd have all the most important stuff on hand for the electrician. I'm largely paying the electrician mostly just for wiring the panel and to a lesser extent to run the proper EMT; so with that said I pre-bought the 50A breaker, outlet, box, and plate based on this thread so I knew what I was going to have installed. Electrician just texted me.. he's on his way. Now if only Tesla could text me that my MY is ready to be picked up!
 
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Why do you need an outlet if you have a TWC?
We have two Teslas, or rather we will have two Teslas if Tesla stops pushing my confirmed delivery date out. Due to the way the garage is one has to pull in and the other back in which means the TWC won’t reach the one car. So to make life simple, it was easier to just put an outlet and have my wife charge her M3SR+ with her mobile charger.
 
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My Leviton gave up the ghost this week after 29 months of service @ 40A. With this thread in the Model 3 forum I had no idea it existed, but I found it when searching for 14-50 failures since I could not figure out why this one failed. I guess the Leviton is just garbage as everyone says. I had to pry the 14-50P adapter out of the receptacle with a screwdriver (after turning off the breaker of course). I smelled burning electric and the car refused to charge. Good that the car was smart enough to notice the voltage drop and/or lack of expected current and not charge. The UMC seems fine as it still works with the 5-15 adapter. I see that Home Depot no longer carries the Leviton 14-50 which is good. Will probably go with the Utilitech as a replacement since this only has to last me a few more months.

20220302_211915.jpg
 
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My Leviton gave up the ghost this week after 29 months of service @ 40A. With this thread in the Model 3 forum I had no idea it existed, but I found it when searching for 14-50 failures since I could not figure out why this one failed. I guess the Leviton is just garbage as everyone says. I had to pry the 14-50P adapter out of the receptacle with a screwdriver (after turning off the breaker of course). I smelled burning electric and the car refused to charge. Good that the car was smart enough to notice the voltage drop and/or lack of expected current and not charge. The UMC seems fine as it still works with the 5-15 adapter. I see that Home Depot no longer carries the Leviton 14-50 which is good. Will probably go with the Utilitech as a replacement since this only has to last me a few more months.

View attachment 777184
Selling the house? I’d just spend the $40-50 and replace it with a Bryant. Why go cheap?
 
My Leviton gave up the ghost this week after 29 months of service @ 40A. With this thread in the Model 3 forum I had no idea it existed, but I found it when searching for 14-50 failures since I could not figure out why this one failed. I guess the Leviton is just garbage as everyone says. I had to pry the 14-50P adapter out of the receptacle with a screwdriver (after turning off the breaker of course). I smelled burning electric and the car refused to charge. Good that the car was smart enough to notice the voltage drop and/or lack of expected current and not charge. The UMC seems fine as it still works with the 5-15 adapter. I see that Home Depot no longer carries the Leviton 14-50 which is good. Will probably go with the Utilitech as a replacement since this only has to last me a few more months.
Selling the house? I’d just spend the $40-50 and replace it with a Bryant. Why go cheap?
Well there is the fact that the Utilitech is $10 and works perfectly with zero heat and meets the Tesla spec. That is not going cheap that is being smart.
 
Selling the house? I’d just spend the $40-50 and replace it with a Bryant. Why go cheap?
I have a Lightning on order and will need to run a new line outside since the truck does not fit in my garage. This only needs to last until the truck arrives.

I installed the Utilitech today and all seems well. I'm using my gen2 UMC right now so I only get 32A, but temps are around 80-85 at the plug. We'll see what 40A brings, but so far this is much better.

I'm guessing the heating cycles eventually did a number on the Leviton terminal. I didn't even need to unscrew one of the hot leads.
 
I have a Lightning on order and will need to run a new line outside since the truck does not fit in my garage. This only needs to last until the truck arrives.

I installed the Utilitech today and all seems well. I'm using my gen2 UMC right now so I only get 32A, but temps are around 80-85 at the plug. We'll see what 40A brings, but so far this is much better.

I'm guessing the heating cycles eventually did a number on the Leviton terminal. I didn't even need to unscrew one of the hot leads.
Yea your pic looked sketchy. "Didn't even need to unscrew one of the hot leads" I bet we all can guess which lead that was from the pic.
I think you dodged a bullet on that one.