Thanks for the tip! There have been several posters who would have been better off with an AL capable outlet, too!
The monitor is a cheap Chinese module from AliExpress, you can get it also from eBay for ~ $20 . Search for "Power monitor module". I actually installed it before I got my model 3. The tesla basically can provide the same information so in a way it is redundant but it is nice to see it without going into the car while charging.
I just installed a 50amp Home Depot breaker (using 6/3 stranded) on Sunday in preparation for our Tesla arrival and went the cheaper route on the 14-50 because I didn't want to spend almost $50 on one of the ones mentioned earlier in this thread.
There's also NEMA 10-50 Adapter for Tesla Model S/X/3/Y Gen 2 – EVSE Adapters , although its pricey and out of stock at the moment. I'd probably replace the receptacle with a 6-50 and use an adapter for the welder(or replace the cable for the welder). You'll be in the immediate area and awake when you are using the welder, so if something goes wrong you won't burn to death in your sleep like you might if you tried to use an adapter for the 10-50 to 14-50(or 6-50). Get the right UMC adapter and it'll be safe(r).
Check out EVSE Adapters – Electric vehicle charging solutions, adapter cords for EV, RV, welders, and more. Charge anywhere.
There is nothing wrong with the HD circuit breakers, its their Leviton 14-50 outlet that suck.
If you know what you are doing, it should fairly simple to add an 14-50 outlet right next to your existing 10-50R outlet and wire them in parallel.
My son has a 6-50 outlet for his welder, that I bought an adapter for to charge my car when I visit. It works fine.
There are a couple of specific warnings to give against this advice:
The 10-50 outlet uses only 3 wires, 2 HOT and GROUND, it DOESNT use neutral and it definitely uses a ground wire! BTW, the Tesla DOESN'T use or need the neutral wire.
You might want to recheck that... "NEMA 10s are classified as 125/250 V non-grounding (hot-hot-neutral)," and https://images.tradeservice.com/9ETBOIYK8205G6UU/ATTACHMENTS/DIR100235/HUBBBAE00255_A43.pdf (look for HBL7962) suggest that the third conductor is W, for white or Neutral, not G for Ground.
Well, at least you didn't use the word "actually" while trying to correct me with false information.
Right. Yes, the Tesla cable doesn't need a 120V connection if the 240V connection is there, so it doesn't connect to the neutral of a 14-XX type of outlet. But it does want to check if there is a ground. So on the 10-XX type of outlets, there's a bit of fudging there. The Tesla cable is putting its ground pin on the neutral of the 10-50 to try to confirm it's at 0V. It should be, so it just pretends it's a ground and uses it that way.
I can confirm the latter as I bought a 10-30 Tesla adapter also for an older dryer outlet and tested the continuity of the pins to compare, it just pretends the neutral is the ground. In the 14-50 adapter, it instead ignores the neutral and has the ground pin as ground.
Traditional rules don't apply in a garage. Some suggest 18" above the floor at a minimum, to reduce the chance of water(or salty water) or gas fumes getting to it. For a UMC, I'd expect a couple feet minimum, so the UMC can be below it(or you could mount it upside down and have the UMC above it). Make sure you have a holster or other mounting method for the UMC so its not just hanging on the cord. The round hole goes on top if you want the UMC below the outlet.
