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Vendor Model 3 Öhlins DFV Coilovers - Engineered by Redwood Motorsports ™

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I have no idea if the revisions made to the GT kit are going to carry over. Redwood would know. Just give them a call and see what they say.
While I did not talk to them specifically about this, but issues I've ran into while installing HPDE springs. Heath said they've standardized the lower spring seats between the kits they offer and all of those are for 3" springs now.

So, if like me you have an older set of RW Ohlins with 70mm ID springs and want to order different springs to play with - you're gonna need new upper/lower spring perches.

So, I guess I'll know soon enough what kind of perches come with new kits and whether they feature spring seats and isolators.
Debating whether to use a 10k/13k setup on kinda narrow spring perches for this Sunday's (likely wet) autox event or to try to drift every corner with an 8k/13k setup.
 
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(I found the right Model 3 thread for this finally, yay.)

This morning I drove a very familiar, nearly 50 mile stretch of twisties without any passengers, almost no traffic, and all cargo in the trunk (nothing loose in the cabin or super heavy). Performance Sport dampers set at 16 of 32 clicks from full stiff all around, which is the setting my wife has been liking.

"Smooth" barely begins the describe the experience of hauling a** over 50 miles of empty, very familiar twisties in this car now. The car friggin' flows. The balance, the reactions, the frontend grip, the steering response, the level of control...it's brilliant. And it is truly a smooth experience. I can't even think of how it could be better for such driving. (Well okay, one obvious way: this car deserves some real sport seats. Also one could go full racecar upgrading all the bushings and control arms. Both would be fun.)

I'll do my next such drive in a stiffer damper setting for comparison. For shorter very hard+fast drives through the twisties I've been liking 11 of 32 clicks from full stiff. Will see if I still do for longer stretches.
Time for 11 vs 16 clicks followup! I count clicks from full stiff, so 16 of 32 is halfway stiff, 11 of 32 is stiffer (two thirds stiff).

I drove to the same area today, but tried a new route. Completely new road to me, but almost no traffic. I decided to start at 16 clicks again as a baseline, and switch to 11 clicks a few miles in. I'd had a mild headache all morning and at first wasn't sure if I wanted to really hammer it, but within a few turns that went away and it was go time.

The road started off pretty wide and smooth, solidly twisty but with good condition older asphalt, and room for a little sliding if needed. The car felt good from the get-go, but I did feel like stiffer would suit the smooth wide pavement. After a few miles I pulled over for the damper adjustment, then back on the road in maybe 90 seconds, now at 11 clicks all around. (When going stiffer I always turn the knobs all the way closed / full stiff, then count clicks as I loosen. I read somewhere this is best for the dampers.)

Sure enough 11 felt better on the nicer pavement, but the road got real narrow and gnarly, and even the woods got tighter around me. Single lane width in many places, sagging asphalt, all sorts of bumps, dips, depressions, etc. Will 11 clicks still feel great after 30+ miles of this? Or too stiff for that many miles of really nasty twisties?

The answer: If you're really driving fast, 11 clicks is wholly better than 16 clicks. Even after 35 miles of such driving. Even when the pavement is Nasty with a capital N. If anything going stiffer still might be even better.

At 11 clicks the car was soaking up the smaller bumps and depressions like nothing. I could see the warty pockmarked uneven pavement, and I could certainly hear the impacts (it's a Model 3!), but they barely registered to my butt. 35 miles of this and I never, ever felt like I'd set the suspension too stiff. I might try 10 or 9 clicks over this road next time. Like most such roads there were some big depressions where I bottomed out, and generally firmer is better for handling such things.

If driving at a more normal, sane pace then 16 clicks would be better on a road like this, without question. But if you're shredding it go stiffer. The stiffer settings give you quicker steering responses, and tighter control over the really big dips and bumps. Spending a minute or two turning the knobs is worthwhile, and it's surreal how smooth the car feels over the smaller stuff when going fast, despite what your eyes and ears are telling you.
 
THIS JUST IN!

For those interested in NOT lowering your Model 3/Y, we now have DAMPER ONLY versions of our FPX and Redwood-Ohlins Long-Stroke kits! These include front spring adapters, instead of front and rear replacement springs, in order to reuse your factory springs in conjunction with the benefits of our custom Redwood-Ohlins and Redwood-FPX adjustable Grand Touring (GT) dampers - for a more affordable price, and more affordable install as it takes less labor to install and setup (no front spring height adjustment, and no removal of the rear spring). Since these use the same components from our FPX and Ohlins Long-Stroke kits, they can also be *upgraded* to full coilovers at a later date!

In addition, all kits (including full coilover kits) come with our *new and improved* one piece FULLY FORGED lower forks - stronger, and lighter than our previous version!







 
How is it that the pre-load and height adjustment instructions on the Ohlins R&T kit are so different than the Redwood DFV kits? Ohlins R&T instructions make no mention of the risk of bottoming out where as the Redwood instructions have big disclaimers all over them about this risk. I have Mountain Pass installed on my Model Y which are only single adjustable via the spring perch so the idea of having double adjustability is perhaps beyond my comprehension.
 
The double adjustability is specifically there if you wish to lower. It’s important to choose springs that are stiff enough, if you’re shortening the free length, else you create a very real possibility of bottoming out. That said, if you know what you are doing, the ability to adjust both preload and free length allows you to tune for just about any combination of ride height, stroke, and spring rates you might want.

The warnings are there because, if you don’t know what you’re doing, you can seriously fugg up your car by doing things wrong.

Both MPP and Redwood make great products. I have come to appreciate Redwood’s utter lack of concern for trade secrets and incredible support, but I don’t think you can go far wrong with either company’s suspension bits.
 
The double adjustability is specifically there if you wish to lower. It’s important to choose springs that are stiff enough, if you’re shortening the free length, else you create a very real possibility of bottoming out. That said, if you know what you are doing, the ability to adjust both preload and free length allows you to tune for just about any combination of ride height, stroke, and spring rates you might want.

The warnings are there because, if you don’t know what you’re doing, you can seriously fugg up your car by doing things wrong.

Both MPP and Redwood make great products. I have come to appreciate Redwood’s utter lack of concern for trade secrets and incredible support, but I don’t think you can go far wrong with either company’s suspension bits.
I just found it interesting that Redwood would have the presence of mind to include those disclaimers in the instructions whereas Ohlins makes no mention of it despite the same dangers still existing with their set of coilovers.
 
I just found it interesting that Redwood would have the presence of mind to include those disclaimers in the instructions whereas Ohlins makes no mention of it despite the same dangers still existing with their set of coilovers.
It's a good point -- the flexibility is there for the type of people that often purchase aftermarket bits, and those are the people most likely to purchase stuff from Redwood. Ohlins likely saw the expanding market for their dampers, particularly among people who wanted a lowered ride with stiff springs, but in all likelihood their lawyers told them "don't even mention the free length, it's not worth the potential liability, most people will never even know it exists".

For Ohlins (or KW), Tesla aftermarket bits represent a tiny fraction of their overall revenue. For Redwood or MPP, Tesla aftermarket bits represent most or all of their revenue. (I think UP is in a different situation where they mostly advertise by winning races, though it's a similar situation.) For an aftermarket-only shop, anything that increases sales is probably good. For a diversified manufacturer, anything that increases liability is bad. My guess is that's the real dynamic -- "anything you say can and will be held against you" vs. "do whatever you want on your racecar, you can't get blood from a stone" (re: lawsuit $$)
 
I looked at the Ohlins R&T instructions and they effectively say the same thing -- "if the lower bracket is set outside the 15mm range it may interfere with the suspension or vehicle body parts" and "overall height must be within a range of +/- 40mm of stock vehicle height". They don't really mention *why* this is the case; they obliquely reference it. It's the lack of an explanation or concrete example which is a bit of an issue (what springs, what height, what free length).


The product shown in the Ohlins R&T manual isn't even the Tesla version, so I suspect the real answer is "couldn't be arsed to say anything other than what the lawyers approved in the boilerplate". My contention about corporate dynamics (big megaconglomco vs. racers in a garage) stands :)
 
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I just found it interesting that Redwood would have the presence of mind to include those disclaimers in the instructions whereas Ohlins makes no mention of it despite the same dangers still existing with their set of coilovers.
To be frank, there are a number of oversights in the factory kit - there's no bump stop limiter, so full compression of the bump stop can crack the stock top hat, the rear stroke is too short (specifically because the rear spring was a parts bin cylindrical spring that needed upper and lower adapters, and ran itself out of stroke, so the shock stroke had to be limited). There are just a number of items that were left unaddressed or parts bin parts used which created various conflicts. We specialize in the Tesla chassis, work directly with Tesla engineers here in Fremont (we're literally across the street from the factory), we're just more specialized and know the details required for suspension for these chassis that you otherwise wouldn't realize with a cursory look to put a kit together. We maintain a factory battery to ground clearance in our instructions (at max bump stop compression the chassis can get quite close to the ground).

We set free length before shipping from here so that at max bump stop contact you have factory battery to ground clearance. Now, for custom applications, race cars, and custom setups requiring more compression stroke before bump stop contact, this can be modified by trading free length for pre-load on the springs to get more compression travel for lower cars (but giving up some battery to ground clearance). But this is where the responsibility for issues transfers to the customer. So in short, we ship with, and recommend factory battery to ground clearance to be conservative and follow factory tesla specs at maximum bump stop compression... but, they are also adjustable if you'd like to do a custom setup, race car, etc. :)
 
Can you get more stroke out of the Ohlin's rear shock with the swift springs? Then you could you lengthening the shock body for more droop and removing spacers to get similar bottom out clearance. Of course you need to maintain spring preload at max droop and prevent coil bind at bottom out.

With the stock springs can you get even more droop in the rear?
Thanks
 
I just got my Redwood GT coilover set installed but at 10 clicks from full still i feel that the ride is a bit too bouncy for my liking. Should i keep stiffening the shocks or is replacing the springs with ones that have a higher spring rate a better solution?
If it's bouncing - it means dampers are not slowing springs enough (not stiff enough).

Harder springs will make that effect worse with higher frequency, bur lower amplitude of bouncing.
 
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If it's bouncing - it means dampers are not slowing springs enough (not stiff enough).

Harder springs will make that effect worse with higher frequency, bur lower amplitude of bouncing.
Thanks for this. I feel like it should have known this. My passengers were getting nauseous from all the bouncing the other day but it could have been a combination of rough roads and too soft settings.
 
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Thanks for this. I feel like it should have known this. My passengers were getting nauseous from all the bouncing the other day but it could have been a combination of rough roads and too soft settings.
If you make it too stiff - it starts bouncing on tires, but frequency is much higher.
Nausea is usually from medium springs on soft dampers.