I got some scary notifications about my car being unable to charge and power being reduced just 6 days after taking delivery. Turned out it had a bad battery and needed replacement. First Model 3 battery swap in the Seattle area. Had a loaner for over two weeks, but everything has been fine since I got the car back. Got two free annual service center checkups for my trouble.
I hope your issues end when you get your car back.[/QUO
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Model 3: Breakdowns
- Thread starter NoMoreBMWs
- Start date
chronopc
Active Member
No, @Quickstart88 stated they were consuming 280-290 wh/mi under "normal" conditions. That is much more energy than "200 ish to 250".
Ha Ha - I must be driving like I stole it before. Under normal driving condition, I am getting 200 to 250 wh/mi. Which is normal like everyone else.
I hate to hi-jack NoMoreBMWs thread. Anyone figured out why my model 3 makes two clicking sounds. At first I thought it was locking and unlocking. So I move my phone far away and I know my car is locked. I work in my garage most of the time. With the phone far away, sometime it makes the two clicking sounds. I am trying to figure out why it does that. Maybe battery is cooling when it's parked? The fan did not turn on. Just curious what those clicking sounds is doing.
'Might' be topping off the 12V battery (3 works differently from S/X though so it may not be it). Do you have a dashcam?
Yes, Install my black vue a couple of days ago. Tap into cigarettes lighter and not direct to battery. When system is off, dash cam is off as well. Also I heard the 12V battery does not link into the power pack. It's independent. I am almost certain of that.
Well, the 12V must get charged from the pack. I read there is a separate battery maintenance source in addition to the main 12V DC-DC for all the accessories.
Was the car connected to power, could be topping off? May have been a phone home. Or it was asking you to stop ignoring it and go driving
UZJedi
Member
Yes, the HV battery pack. I asked for my first annual service visit to be free for my trouble. They gave me two.
So, the 2-hour maiden voyage home was successful from an operational vehicle standpoint, not so much from a metro bus and car trailer attempting to smash into me/force me off the road angle. I was not as attentive as I might have preferred (shortage of sleep) and was spending an inordinate amount of time getting accustomed to the vehicle features, but I feel lucky to have arrived intact. The bus didn't even indicate, just began to veer into my lane willy nilly. I put more blame on their inattentiveness than mine. The trailer just cut me off right as my traffic aware cruise control was kicking in (which didn't perceive the angular threat or attempt to brake). Thank goodness I had a shoulder to veer into and managed to maintain control of the vehicle. I certainly did "drive it like I stole it" when I finally passed that trailer (hitting 99 mph momentarily).
The loud clicking sounds are the sounds of contactors switching position for the HV battery. My company does industrial robot automation and the controllers for the robots make the same sound when you enable the robot servo motors
The loud clicking sounds are the sounds of contactors switching position for the HV battery. My company does industrial robot automation and the controllers for the robots make the same sound when you enable the robot servo motors
But why are the contactors contacting?
(i'm going with the car is lonely)
Received a service receipt email yesterday with the list of repairs and that the car is ready. DU, pyro fuse, mosfet, bolts, vent tube, rear center console air vent assembly replaced. Passenger rt front door panel (on order), cleaned passenger rt front pillar, detailed exterior. Picking the Saturday. I can try to post receipt if anyone is interested in specifics.
chronopc
Active Member
My posts are strictly meant for the benefit of the Tesla community. In a a forum like this, it’s important to give back and not just take. Hopefully my experience will help someone else with a similar situation. Thanks to those that are contributing to this thread.
That is great, just verify that the rear seat doesn't have any wrinkles in the leather when you pick it up. If it does then they will need to replace the seat if it isn't addressed and corrected right away. I didn't notice when I picked up my car and they had to replace the seat because the leather stretched. If there isn't a wrinkle then you're fine.
Also, I would check to make sure that the interior panels on the driver side in the rear are properly put pack into place. Again, mine were lose and I just didn't notice for a while, this issue was that not all of the clips were clipped into place, they fixed this for me a few weeks ago when I finally noticed and it was a quick fix, it has been fine since. The panel that is between the back of the seat and the door on the side should also be checked well, this has orange high voltage cabling under it so you don't want that to be lose and exposing that.
This is typically what I get on a normal drive. I was just saying that I have seen it be in the 1000s when I only drove half a mile, so what you saw was normal.
Depending on driving habits, you should be somewhere between 210 and 230/240 even when driving at around 70mph
Picked it my car from SC on Saturday. Promptly left on a 225 mile round trip. Now I’m close to 500 miles.
Love the car! Worth the wait! My magical Tesla Model 3!
Picked up my car yesterday...and immediately got the “cannot maintain vehicle power” They said it was probably just an old firmware that needed to be updated. So they updated it and the warning was gone for the rest of the day. This morning I was pulling it out of the garage to check tire pressures...as I was about to take a small trip...and the same warning came back shortly followed by “Car needs service, unable to drive”. Car would no longer go into drive. Coincidence or not...Last night when wrapping my center console, my car would make clunking/knocking sounds when not moving and AC was on. Would do it whether on manual/automatic/windshield defroster (anything that would turn the compressor on) The knoocking sound was coming from the front of the car. Also i noticed when in automatic AC or Front defroster. The AC icon would keep changing from greyed out to blue..anybody else’s change? Is that normal behavior? It would than stay solid blue when the car is moving.
Anyway Called roadside assistance to tow my car that I had less than 24hrs. About 2 hrs later I happen to see if the car would go into drive and it did....so I was able to drive it onto the flatbed. While at the service center I was trying to replicate the AC issue and the car again showed the vehicle power, unble to drive and wouldn’t go into gear again.
I’ve towed my BMW once in ten years. About 8-9 years after i bought it. Tesla is towed in less than 24hrs....hoping this isn’t a sign of what’s to come.
Anyway Called roadside assistance to tow my car that I had less than 24hrs. About 2 hrs later I happen to see if the car would go into drive and it did....so I was able to drive it onto the flatbed. While at the service center I was trying to replicate the AC issue and the car again showed the vehicle power, unble to drive and wouldn’t go into gear again.
I’ve towed my BMW once in ten years. About 8-9 years after i bought it. Tesla is towed in less than 24hrs....hoping this isn’t a sign of what’s to come.
The clicking noises are the high voltage relays engage and disengaging. Those are nothing to worry about. As for not being able to drive, sounds like you may have had a drive unit failure. I had one within a week of picking up. It isn't fun, but can happen. Thankfully the drive unit seems to be much more reliable on the Model 3 than the Model S/X. My second drive unit has been great for 12k miles, so I don't think you have anything to worry about. If the car is AWD then it would explain why it is working on and off. If only RWD then probably isn't a drive unit issue.
As for the AC icons changing, I think this will happen if you have auto for the AC on.
Similar threads
