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Model 3 - LR AWD Waiting Room

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If someone were to place an order for a 2021 Model 3 AWD long range model; what build quality issues would they need to be on the lookout for? Given the age of the Model 3, I would be surprised if they are still making changes to the build process on a 5-6 year old vehicle. I would naively assume the improvements (as much as they can improve) in build quality would have been delivered by now.

I think I have decided on a Model 3 AWD long range (well, until your post reconfirmed that build quality is still a issue that even die-hard Tesla fans mention. And if a die-hard fan is willing to recognize the defect - then the defect isn't insignificant). So I worry when I read stuff like this.

Lately, it seems like they can't get door handles set properly. I've seen a handful of posts with door handles more recessed than they should be.

Some have interior headliner misalignments, tail light misalignment, charge door misalignments, or trunk misalignments.

Browse through this thread: Master thread: Delivery issues (panel gaps, delivery delays / issues / problems etc)
 
I typically contact the person who helped me out with my test drive. He emailed me shortly after I ordered so I think he's sort of my self-assigned SA or point of contact.
That was the case for me. Did a test drive before ordering and then later that same day I got an email from the guy at the store with info on charging cables and what steps need to still happen and all of that. I haven't heard from them since ordering in mid June but I would guess they'll be the same person that contacts me about delivery whenever that happens
 
So the big power wires that go inside the wall charger. Are they held in place with a U type clamp? Or do they have the better connection method that the Hubble type 14-50 plug on Amazon shows in the second photo. Just wondering if the wires are using a better quality type connection inside the home charger or a standard U screw down pressure clamp connection.
They are screw-down connections...

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Approaching one month and still haven't received a sales advisor. I got a generic text 2-3hrs after my order saying I can email or reply back to the text with questions. Not sure if that's the advisor??
That’s how I have been communicating with my SA as of late. He started with an email to form up some items but he directly responded to a reply into that generic text and that’s how he’s been reaching out to me ever since, including today.
 

This post?

Ahhhh dang it. Well that could be why we haven't gotten updated delivery dates in a couple days now.

Maybe this maintenance will improve build quality a bit!
Or maybe some new parts/hardware revisions? One can dream :)
 
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I have a buddy in clarksburg who recently ordered a Model Y. It sounds like a fun weekend project with several trips to Home Depot and copious amounts of beer 😂

I’m thinking of going with the Grizzl-E. I don’t need the frills of WiFi or anything else. NOVEC doesn’t charge differently for peak and off-peak and they don’t have any incentives for charging.

I’ve gotten into the habit of pretty much plugging in the car like I plug in my phone. For regular home usage, I see 40A as the sweet spot.
That sounds like a dream weekend - love it! Is your friend also waiting for his car or did he already get it?

Btw I checked the incentive from the utility company - it's not that significant - just 2 cents on kWh so not really a factor.
 
I'm feeling pretty confident that I can do it, just worried about permit issues.

All the equipment really only cost 60 bucks? Dang
Don't worry about permit issues if your panel is in the garage itself. I'm only worried about the permit because my panel is in the basement and I have a detached garage so if there is a future inspection while selling the house or something and I have to get a permit then, I would have to dig up the trench again for them to see the wiring and approve the permit. If the panel is in the garage itself you can apply for a permit any time without much rework.
 
This is probably a good estimate to “level-set” but to be honest I don’t think SA’s really know.
I agree, my SA said this (6/12 order date):
While we don’t have any tools on our end to see more than what is available in your account, I would anticipate hearing more about your delivery towards August-September as that is when production comes to an end for this quarter.
 
I purchased the wall charger about a week after I ordered the car. My neighbor has one and it's just too convenient. I'd rather keep the included charger in my car for "just in case" situations. I'm pretty handy myself so I ran an 80 foot run of 6/2 NM from my basement, up through a wall, across the attic, and down the wall of my garage to the charger. I'm not going to lie, it was a bit of a challenge muscling that heavy gauge wire, but worth not having to pay an electrician. It cost me about $750 in total. I installed a 50 amp circuit breaker and wired to that. 6/2 NM (non-metallic, aka "Romex") is only rated to 55 amps. Setting the wall charger to 50 amps means that it will only draw 40 amps, continuous (80%). I didn't feel like running 75 or 90-degree single-strand wire through conduit all that way just for the extra 8 amps a 60 amp circuit would give me (80% of 60 amps = 48 amps continuous). I could have just wired that to a 14-50, but that would only give me a 32 amp max continuous. I did order a 14-50 adapter to keep with my charger in the car, again... just in case. What sucks, is that every time I get out of my current ICE car, that charger's glowing green light reminds me I still don't have my car. I just shoot it the stink eye and walk away...
I'm planning to do a 4/3 Romex wire for the 50-70ft inside the house from the panel to the end of the house through the basement ceiling joists, and then #6 THHN wires in a conduit for the underground wiring to the garage.
 
I'm planning to do a 4/3 Romex wire for the 50-70ft inside the house from the panel to the end of the house through the basement ceiling joists, and then #6 THHN wires in a conduit for the underground wiring to the garage.

That'll definitely work to provide you with the 60amp circuit you want.

For those of you that are considering running your own circuit, I would highly recommend that you consult an ampacity chart to determine what size wire you'll need...


Remember that the National Electricity Code (NEC) considers EV chargers to be a constant load and thus may only use 80% of the overall circuit amp rating.

**Disclaimer: I am not an electrician. Take what I say with a grain of salt.
 
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Lately, it seems like they can't get door handles set properly. I've seen a handful of posts with door handles more recessed than they should be.

Some have interior headliner misalignments, tail light misalignment, charge door misalignments, or trunk misalignments.

Browse through this thread: Master thread: Delivery issues (panel gaps, delivery delays / issues / problems etc)
I think I've come to accept the alignment of body panels as part of the Tesla experience. Very interesting that there are new issues being discovered with the door handles.

I am realllly hoping this 2021 Model w/ 353 mile range is going to be "the year"; where build quality is as good as it has ever been. Have there been significant amount of 2021 models delivered?
 
Does anyone have any creative ideas on how i can share that 10-30 outlet with my dryer? The garage is on the other side of the wall on the left and my tesla will be parked on that side of the garage too. Running an outlet from the breaker is going to run atleast 1500-2000 since my panel is on the other side of the house, and is pretty much full as there is one blank/slot left for the size of a 120v breaker. Maybe it'll be cheaper to just share this existing outlet (not at the same time of course)?
 
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Does anyone have any creative ideas on how i can share that 10-30 outlet with my dryer? The garage is on the other side of the wall on the left and my tesla will be parked on that side of the garage too. Running an outlet from the breaker is going to run atleast 1500-2000 since my panel is on the other side of the house, and is pretty much full as there is one blank/slot left for the size of a 120v breaker. Maybe it'll be cheaper to just share this existing outlet (not at the same time of course)?

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That's a tough call. I think any electrician would tell you that you need to have the EV charger on its own circuit. Splicing into an existing circuit is just not a good idea. Not worth burning your house down.