Model 3 price reduction to come?

[OCR1]

Why do we really have to keep talking about Tesla prices, which does vary periodically when if buying essentially any other car, the price depends on the sales person that you get, the day of the week, your negotiating capabilities and signs emblazoned across the windshield with $15,000 Off! ?

Maybe because all of these things now apply to buying a Tesla?

 

[jjrandorin]

Why do we really have to keep talking about Tesla prices, which does vary periodically when if buying essentially any other car, the price depends on the sales person that you get, the day of the week, your negotiating capabilities and signs emblazoned across the windshield with $15,000 Off! ?

Because people want to somehow believe that tesla is somehow misguided, or lying, or in trouble, or being disingenuous every time they change pricing.... even though EVERY OTHER CAR dealer changes pricing CONSTANTLY... both the manufacturer ("incentives" change sometimes weekly, and are not transparent), and price on the same car at a dealer changes by the customer.

The part of the price changing by the customer at a dealer is different between tesla and others, but the "incentives / bonus / winter wonderland, december to remember, etc etc" is all the same thing as "changing pricing".

For some reason, people dont seem to see that car dealers change prices as demand changes.. and expect tesla (a new car company trying to make it") to somehow NOT pay attention to market conditions.

 

[dsvick]

Why do we really have to keep talking about Tesla prices, which does vary periodically when if buying essentially any other car, the price depends on the sales person that you get, the day of the week, your negotiating capabilities and signs emblazoned across the windshield with $15,000 Off! ?

Maybe because all of these things now apply to buying a Tesla?

The only one of those that remotely varies is the timing, other than that all the others are constant across the entire country and make the entire experience so much more pleasant.

 

[omkar]

I think prices will drop but it will be by $1875 or less. If you aren't eligible for the tax credit, I don't see any harm in waiting a few more weeks to see what happens.

 

[aahilali]

Trying to time your purchase to get the absolute best pricing is always difficult, because Tesla pricing is hard to predict.

They have a policy of constantly improving their vehicles, and offering compelling value to keep demand high. Trying to figure this out in advance is challenging.

The elusive $35,000 Model 3 came and went. Nobody knows for sure if it will ever be seen again.

Trying to time a purchase to insure best resale value is also a game frought with opinions.

you can still get the 35k SR model 3, just have to call in or go to a showroom, but the SR + is a wayyyyyy better deal

 

[vickh]

you can still get the 35k SR model 3, just have to call in or go to a showroom, but the SR + is a wayyyyyy better deal

not if you don't want AP yet. But it's $35.9K now

 

[MXWing]

not if you don't want AP yet. But it's $35.9K now

You want AP.

No one says you have to use it 100% of the time.

But you want it.

Normal Cruise SUCKS as I've found with Model S loaner without it.

 

[M3BlueGeorgia]

hey guys, i just placed my order for a standard range plus model 3. one thing i look at when buying a car is resale value, with the model 3 we have seen a reduction in price every time the tax credit has gone down, but that hurts people who purchased the car before because on top of regular depreciation you have to factor in the new price reduction. Well for me the 3,750$ tax incentive doesn’t even apply and in July that’s going to get cut in half to $1875, so my question is does anyone know for sure if the standard range plus is getting a price reduction? if so it would be stupid to not wait the extra month, i know a lot of people got screwed when the tax credit originally dropped from 7500$ and i don’t want that to happen to me.

You could take the chance on picking up a demo car which might not qualify for the tax credit, since you don't appear to be able to use it. Basically go chat to the store (if you are close to one) near the end of the month, or perhaps phone them if not that close. Tell them you can't use the tax credit so you are in the market for a car which wouldn't qualify for it.

I just checked inventory for Metro Atlanta and as of today there are zero Model 3 and Model X, and just two Model S.

BTW: I don't think many people, if any, were screwed when the tax credit dropped from $7,500 to $3,750. It was pretty well known and Tesla got orders delivered by end of December if they were placed in time. Yes there were some weird price changes in February, so maybe that's what you are referring to.

 

[TEG]

I think demo cars should quality for tax credits. As long as you are the first buyer, and it was on "manufacturer" or "dealer" plates before they sold it.

On the other hand, an "inventory car", could be a customer return, so you would need to know the history if it was ever sold before.

 

[Leafdriver333]

You want AP.

No one says you have to use it 100% of the time.

But you want it.

Normal Cruise SUCKS as I've found with Model S loaner without it.

I don't use CC for daily commute but AP is useful on longer drives.
I will jump on it when they are on sale.

 

[MXWing]

I don't use CC for daily commute but AP is useful on longer drives.
I will jump on it when they are on sale.

Best chance is perhaps mid - end of this month if it comes up.

On long drives, it's torture to not have it if you know what you are missing.

It's like being on 2400 baud modem and getting broadband.

Yeah you lived on 2400 baud modem for years but once you have the high speed you can't go back.

 

[M3BlueGeorgia]

Best chance is perhaps mid - end of this month if it comes up.

On long drives, it's torture to not have it if you know what you are missing.

It's like being on 2400 baud modem and getting broadband.

Yeah you lived on 2400 baud modem for years but once you have the high speed you can't go back.

OMG yes! I had a week in a rental car with plain old cruise control.
Agony to keep manually adjusting the speed to be able to stay in lane in traffic without exceeding the speed limit.

I use TACC on my car whenever I can.

 

[Pommie]

Just buy the car now. Honestly the best car ever in the history of mankind. The enjoyment you get from it will far outweigh the difference in price.

 

[davewill]

You want AP.

No one says you have to use it 100% of the time.

But you want it.

Normal Cruise SUCKS as I've found with Model S loaner without it.

Not for $3000, I don't. I truly see the SR as the better deal. I get the nice interior, and a software locked battery is nearly as good as the unlocked battery for most situations. Besides, I can add AP later if I find the cash, or the deal gets sweetened.

 

[MXWing]

Not for $3000, I don't. I truly see the SR as the better deal. I get the nice interior, and a software locked battery is nearly as good as the unlocked battery for most situations. Besides, I can add AP later if I find the cash, or the deal gets sweetened.

How long do you plan to own your car for and what does that average out to per month of ownership?

If you were going to get it later or delay getting it now, not only do you not get to use it now, but you are having new money depreciate at the rate of old money.

How much do better do you expect the deal to get? I think it’s 2K to get it as a part of the bundle upfront.

OPM at low interest rates is better than lump sums later as well.

4000 fully amortized is 117 per month over 3 years at 3.5% interest.

I don’t see anyone that wanting me l wait 3 years to drop 3K or more on a car that is already 3 years old.

Everyone does their math to their own marginal utility curve but the longer I hold a car the more options I will put in it.

 

[davewill]

How long do you plan to own your car for and what does that average out to per month of ownership?

If you were going to get it later or delay getting it now, not only do you not get to use it now, but you are having new money depreciate at the rate of old money.

How much do better do you expect the deal to get? I think it’s 2K to get it as a part of the bundle upfront.

OPM at low interest rates is better than lump sums later as well.

4000 fully amortized is 117 per month over 3 years at 3.5% interest.

I don’t see anyone that wanting me l wait 3 years to drop 3K or more on a car that is already 3 years old.

Everyone does their math to their own marginal utility curve but the longer I hold a car the more options I will put in it.

Nope, it's $3k now or $3k later... I don't necessarily think AP will ever get cheaper, in which case I might never get it. I was determined to hold the line at $30k after incentives, and would have except my wife flatly refused to consider black. So my discounted red SR comes in at about $31k after incentives.

Anyway, it's cool, somebody has to buy the higher trims...

 

[MXWing]

Nope, it's $3k now or $3k later... I don't necessarily think AP will ever get cheaper, in which case I might never get it. I was determined to hold the line at $30k after incentives, and would have except my wife flatly refused to consider black. So my discounted red SR comes in at about $31k after incentives.

Anyway, it's cool, somebody has to buy the higher trims...

My friend, I don't see the value at "holding a line". Value is what you get, not what you pay. If they could have given you a 3MR for 32K after incentives, you would skip?

You never did answer your holding time period.

If you hold a car for five years, the average cost goes way down and you get to enjoy the feature from day one.


Different strokes for different folks but even I dislike a free loaner from Tesla over my car because it has AP.

No one has ever regretted getting AP after the fact. The opposite is usually the case.

 

[davewill]

My friend, I don't see the value at "holding a line". Value is what you get, not what you pay. If they could have given you a 3MR for 32K after incentives, you would skip?

You never did answer your holding time period. Different strokes for different folks but even I dislike a free loaner from Tesla over my car because it has AP.

No one has ever regretted getting AP after the fact. The opposite is usually the case.

I intend to keep it a long time. I just don't value the addons in the SR+... a battery with 20 more miles that I can't really use on a daily basis? No. Heck, I used ABRP to route both an SR and an SR+ clear across the country and got the exact same itinerary, so it may not have any real utility on road trips, either, since the SR should charge to 100% in the same time that an SR+ could charge to 90%. I'll take the chance that once a year I might have to make an extra charging stop. Slightly better sound? No. AP? Not $3k worth and definitely not the $4500 difference between SR and SR+.

Sure I would enjoy AP, and if someone tickles my feet, I'll admit to a slight chance I will reconsider, but I don't really expect to. If I do, it won't cost me more later, so that's cool.

 

[Candleflame]

well its not gonna be 35k forever. There is inflation too....

 

[OCR1]

No one has ever regretted getting AP after the fact. The opposite is usually the case.

I purchased EAP on our first Model 3 for $5K and found that I never used it. We rarely drive on the freeways and even when we do the traffic is so hectic in LA/OC that I don’t feel comfortable using it. I elected not to purchase AP or FSD on our second Model 3 and have no regrets. The car is fun to drive...I just prefer driving it myself.

And if I could get a refund on the EAP on our first car...I’d gladly return it.