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Model S Cabin Heater Stopped Working

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I'm not seeing both parts in your latest invoice post. That looks right to me. I have a similar post in this thread somewhere.
Here it is again - I've circled the 2 parts that BrownOuttaSpec confirmed are essentially the same part for 2 different Model S generations.

The top item (1060432-00-E) is for April 2016 - Jan 2021 Model S.
The 2nd item (1041265-00-F) for $1200 is for Feb 2012 - March 2016 Model S
 

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That answer would help me decide whether I’m replacing a heater core, or whether just a fuse and running the heater with the car disassembled to see if it pops again. Assuming we figure out how to get those parts from the frunk. Otherwise I’m leaving it at the service center for them to fix.

I’m curious as to when that Gen3 “E” part got released. Looks like the main part number is Apr 2016 for the S but maybe Sep 2015 for the X. Installed until Jan 2021, as it probably is not needed with the heat pump. I see references to a 2018 “D” revision online, so I’m leaning toward a new part for me.

Just had the heater go out on my 2017 Model S.

Did you end up replacing the fuse and PTC heater yourself and, if so, is it possible to share what parts you used?

thanks!
 
Wow, $419 in labor alone just to replace a fuse! EV's with less moving parts sure are cheaper to own. 🤣

The savings we saved in fuel is spent to maintain the car. So disappointed. If this is mentioned to new Tesla owners, they'll deny this issue. You can't talk reality to any new EV owners or potential EV owners.

Reality, tires wears out sooner, not many mechnanics will work it locally, suspension wears out sooner too, etc....man, the list goes on. But, no....you will simply get singled out because you're talking bad about EVs. :rolleyes:
 
The savings we saved in fuel is spent to maintain the car. So disappointed. If this is mentioned to new Tesla owners, they'll deny this issue. You can't talk reality to any new EV owners or potential EV owners.

Reality, tires wears out sooner, not many mechnanics will work it locally, suspension wears out sooner too, etc....man, the list goes on. But, no....you will simply get singled out because you're talking bad about EVs. :rolleyes:

That is the truth. Try telling them that they are overall worse for the environment because of the battery failures and extra tire dust they contribute. Their heads explode.
 
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The savings we saved in fuel is spent to maintain the car. So disappointed. If this is mentioned to new Tesla owners, they'll deny this issue. You can't talk reality to any new EV owners or potential EV owners.

Reality, tires wears out sooner, not many mechnanics will work it locally, suspension wears out sooner too, etc....man, the list goes on. But, no....you will simply get singled out because you're talking bad about EVs. :rolleyes:

I agree, we aren't saving any money on this car, however, I do enjoy driving it, and charging at home is a huge plus for me vs going to the gas station.
 
I’m definitely saving money compared to my old method of buying off lease Audis. Maybe not compared to owning an old Honda, but I put 150,000 miles on my car, 80% free supercharged. The fact that I forget to mileage warranty my tires before they get to 3/32 and had to buy one heater core replacement doesn’t really affect the math.
 
I’m definitely saving money compared to my old method of buying off lease Audis. Maybe not compared to owning an old Honda, but I put 150,000 miles on my car, 80% free supercharged. The fact that I forget to mileage warranty my tires before they get to 3/32 and had to buy one heater core replacement doesn’t really affect the math.

150,000 miles without control arm replacement, 4-6 set of tires at $1000 each time, retractable door handles all 4 at $500 door, coolant 4-way valve replacement, pyrofuse, replacing drivetrain fluid, rusted steering column, rusted rotors and brakes is amazing....

The cost adds up to almost $30k for me out of pocket after warranty. My car has 130k miles at the moment. I bought brand new in 2017 a Model S 75.

The used 2008 Prius I bought in 2010 had 89k miles. Now at almost 300,000k miles....probably cost me less than $3,000 to maintain it.
 
Maintenance cost experience is huge variation on this car. 3 main variables are wet/salt vs dry climate, miles/year, Rear drive unit : LDU vs SDU.

A huge chunk of the cost is related to wet/salt road environment : Door handles, rusted steering column, rusted rotors/brakes, cabin heater, coolant heater, AC pump, DCDC fuse failures. As well as the really big ticket item of many HV battery failures. Those living in wet+salted road regions pay a hefty price.

High mileage drivers also gets the most out of the car with 8 year unlimited mileage warranty. HV battery failure having a significant time based component (amount of moisture into pack over time, cell wear) Hence we see low mileage car battery fail beyond warranty.

S75 owners at least bypass the high failure rate reman LDU.

Most common good experience I see is high mileage driver in dry climates. Most poor experience in salted roads northern climates and those driving low miles thinking that = lower wear and tear which is not true on the battery pack and reman LDU. Not saying there are no exceptions but these seems to be the most common pattern.
 
I ended up paying Tesla service to do it as it is beyond my capabilities.

LEFT HAND DRIVE GEN3 PTC HTR, EMC FIX (1060432-00-E)
FUSE, FAST, 40A 700VAC/DC, 14MM X 51MM (1019010-00-A)
Hallo Jukster
I also go similar offer from Tesla for cabin heating not working. They put both the parts mentioned about and costs comes to be 2660 euro. Did you end up paying only for one part I assume. Can you please let me know-getting stressed out 😰
 
I'm getting ready to change out the PTC heater & 40a fuse on my 2016 MS 75D October Build. Heat was flakey for years would cut in and out. Last week the fuse blew and it scared the crap out of me. Any good lessons learned changing that fuse. I was around the FJB area last year changed the heat pump. I saw my FJB has cables coming in on the drivers side when looking from front of vehicle. Im guessing I will need to remove all cables and remove FJB completely seeing lid is against firewall :(. I don't have the means to drop the battery