Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

[RDoc]

It looks like aluminum became the sacraficial metal where it attaches to the steel bumper assembly.

Boats use Zinc plates to help with corrosion is the salt environment.

Agreed on the appearance of electrolysis, but zinc plates on boats are to counter the effects of currents in the boat grounding to or through the water, there really isn't anything like that for a car. Where I've seen that sort of corrosion on a boat is with stainless fasteners in an aluminum mast or aluminum backing plates exposed to salt water, and it can be quite damaging over time. If there's that much corrosion in one winter, it needs to get fixed. That looks to me like a very serious problem.

I wonder if you've got an abraded wire somewhere that's putting a trickle current through that part. The damage looks really serious for just environmental exposure, even with a dissimilar metal next to it. My NSX has lots of exposed aluminum parts and I drive it all winter in New England with nothing like that much corrosion.

 

[JRP3]

To me, that corrosion looks superficial. Then again, I'm viewing it on my phone.

It's pretty bad actually. I'm hoping it's just a defective part that slipped through.

 

[Kalllagtunet]

I seem to have some nasty corrosion on the support that goes across the front of the Frunk. The damage was obviously caused by salt over the winter. People in northern climes might want to check for this.

View attachment 26638

OMG this does not look good... With over 2000 cars on the way to Norway where they will be marinated in salted snow 4 months every winter lets hope this is just one part that is affected and it is easy to exhange/fix. If not it may be a good time to sell TSLA shares soon....

 

[Doug_G]

To me, that corrosion looks superficial. Then again, I'm viewing it on my phone.

There is a significant crack in the piece, visible in the picture just above the leveler screw (missing its rubber cap in the photo). The top edge is supposed to be a straight line. It has already failed mechanically. This was discovered because the hood sunk a few millimeters on one side.

This is immediately under the hood, so it's very high up in the vehicle. Salt spray from the road definitely does work its way up there, though.

The repair is simple - replace the piece. The question is whether this was a one-off defect (or a bad batch of parts), or whether they have to change the part specs.

 

[mknox]

Doug,

Can you see this piece by pulling the plastic cover (over the fuse boxes) off? I was in there once, but can't recall.

 

[Doug_G]

Yes, the covers either side of the frunk easily pop off. I would recommend inspecting it since your car went through some winter.

 

[RDoc]

There is a significant crack in the piece, visible in the picture just above the leveler screw (missing its rubber cap in the photo). The top edge is supposed to be a straight line. It has already failed mechanically. This was discovered because the hood sunk a few millimeters on one side.

This is immediately under the hood, so it's very high up in the vehicle. Salt spray from the road definitely does work its way up there, though.

The repair is simple - replace the piece. The question is whether this was a one-off defect (or a bad batch of parts), or whether they have to change the part specs.

I'm still thinking that there may be an electrical leak that's causing galvanic corrosion. If there is and the part is changed without fixing the problem, it may just corrode away again, with or without salt.

 

[Zapped]

Yes, the covers either side of the frunk easily pop off. I would recommend inspecting it since your car went through some winter.

What does the other side look like ?

 

[Doug_G]

What does the other side look like ?

Also significantly corroded, but not as bad.

 

[Zapped]

I just checked both sides and everything is intact. Driver side does shows more evidence of a splash zone.
I understand the DOT use way more salt in the eastern provinces than in the west. I remember the cars and roads being white from salt during a winter visit to Ottawa.

Regardless this should not happen.
Be interest to hear what the Tesla SC has to say.

 

[brianman]

When I see threads reach 180+ pages, I start wondering: "Shouldn't there be a sub-forum with separate topics rather than a single thread?"

Also, it would be nice if (the next version of?) the forum software allowed people to retitle their posts so that individual issue threads can be updated with "(Resolved)" or whatever when appropriate.

 

[mknox]

I understand the DOT use way more salt in the eastern provinces than in the west.

That's for sure. In winter out here, the roads are constantly wet with salt laden water and slush. If that were not enough, they often roll large tankers that spray salt brine on the freeways. It's horrible to get behind one of those because they spray a humongous volume of brine across multiple lanes.

My initial concern with all of this was with the aluminum suspension and powertrain components, including electrical connections at the battery and motor.

 

[ken830]

When I see threads reach 180+ pages, I start wondering: "Shouldn't there be a sub-forum with separate topics rather than a single thread?"

Also, it would be nice if (the next version of?) the forum software allowed people to retitle their posts so that individual issue threads can be updated with "(Resolved)" or whatever when appropriate.

I agree.. This thread is should be an entire sub-forum.

At higher speeds, the fan spins as it is supposed to. In the model S, however, once the car turns off, the fan spins down and freewheels slowly, and as it spins down, because it's unbalanced, it starts squealing as it scratches the sides of its case. It will eventually self-destruct.

I also have the squeeking fan sound after the HVAC shuts-off.

 

[DrComputer]

Although I'm the one that originally started this thread, I have been rather quiet about pointing out issues with the car. I figured I'd have service fix things and keep quiet unless it was something major that I think should be shared. Well, I now have had one of those "major" issues.

Since the first day I took factory delivery of the car I noticed that at freeway speeds (65-85MPH) there was a low pitched groan or hum sound that seemed to come from the drive train. My Lexus LS was noticeably quieter. For the past 9 months I've driven the car with this groan and lived with it. When I drove up the 5 freeway to TESLIVE I had the back seats down and the cargo cover removed because I was carrying some stuff for the event. The goran was noticeably worse with the seats down. After 5+ hours on the freeway I had a headache from the constant sound. While at the TESLIVE factory party on Saturday night I happened to be chatting with a Tesla employee and we were talking about the car and I mentioned the goan. He said this was a known issue with some early VIN cars (I'm Sig 272) and that the drive train would most likely need to be replaced.

When I got back home I e-mailed my favorite guy Vince at the LA service center and told him about my issue. He picked up the car and agreed that the complete drive train should be replaced. I just got the car back tonight and took it out on the freeway for 1/2 hour and drove at speeds above 65MHP. All I have to say is WOW! I can't believe the difference. The car is SO much quieter now it is unbelievable. If you have a car that makes a hum or groan sound above 65mph take it in to service and have them fix it. I really should have driven another S months ago on the freeway to realize that my car was NOT as it should have been. I do hope this is just an isolated problem with a few cars. I'm sure Tesla doesn't want to replace many drive trains.

FYI: Here's what they wrote on the service order:

Complaint Narrative: Customer states: Groaning noise from drive unit

Pay Type: Warranty

Cause: Internal fault in drive unit.

Correction: Drive Unit - Remove and Replace

Test drove vehicle and verified customer concern. Opened attac case and advised that
noise was coming from drive unit unit area. Was advised to replace drive unit assembly.
Replaced drive unit assembly and test drove vehicle. Vehicle working as designed.

Part - ASY,P-TRAIN,SPORT,MECH,COMPLETE - (1002633-01-B)

 

[Todd Burch]

DrComputer--glad your issue was resolved. I'd seen you mention this groan before and had no idea what you were referring to. The fact that it's only on certain very early VINs explains it. So how does this change your opinion of the car?

 

[Zapped]

DrComputer, Thanks for posting.
I recently had a scheduled inspection. Since I live 14 hours from a service center, TESLA sent their service "ranger".
The experience was great: friendly , knowledgeable and thorough.
Discovered a noisy rear wheel bearing. ( I hit a dreaded pot hole a 2 months ago) They shipped a new one out overnight and replaced it the next day, no charge !

Just curious .. How long did your repair take ?

 

[Plug Me In]

Dr. C score one for the electric car! "Drive train replace" on an ICE is comparable to a heart-lung transplant but sounds fairly straightforward for the Model S. Glad they made your car even better.

 

[cinergi]

All I have to say is WOW! I can't believe the difference. The car is SO much quieter now it is unbelievable. If you have a car that makes a hum or groan sound above 65mph take it in to service and have them fix it. I really should have driven another S months ago on the freeway to realize that my car was NOT as it should have been. I do hope this is just an isolated problem with a few cars. I'm sure Tesla doesn't want to replace many drive trains.

Mine was also recently replaced for the same reason (plus I had an unusual drive inverter noise (nothing that's been described on the forums before) -- so two birds with one stone). Night and day. Totally agree about the "wear and tear" it had on the driver! It had slowly gotten worse so it was difficult to realize it was abnormal.

There was somewhat excessive metallic "flakes" in the lubricant; some amount is normal but apparently it was excessive enough that clearly something was wrong (e.g. it was eating itself).

Edit: this does not mean I have zero drone. So please don't go bombarding service asking for new drive units. The same noise is still audible, just very faint.

 

[DrComputer]

DrComputer--glad your issue was resolved. I'd seen you mention this groan before and had no idea what you were referring to. The fact that it's only on certain very early VINs explains it. So how does this change your opinion of the car?

I would say that it greatly improves my opinion of the car. Although my Lexus LS600hL was still a quieter car at freeway speeds, this new drive train puts it much closer to the Lexus and makes it far more enjoyable to drive.

- - - Updated - - -

Edit: this does not mean I have zero drone. So please don't go bombarding service asking for new drive units. The same noise is still audible, just very faint.

I also agree. But on a scale from 1-10 (1 being silent and 10 being as loud as a lawn mower) I would say my car was at an 8 and is now at a 3. Not as quiet as a Lexus but also no longer as loud as a 1970's VW bug.

 

[brianman]

I had my Annual (well 12,500 miles) Service last week. Nothing troubling to note (yay).

They noticed something I hadn't and fixed it for me. Sharing with the class...

Complaint Narrative: Technician notes that LH mirror rattles when door is closed.
Pay Type: Warranty
Cause: Found that the FL mirror has a rattle when closing.
Correction: Exterior NVH General Diagnosis
Removed the door panel, glass, and then the mirror and found that the mirror frame was
resting on the door itself without any absorbing tape. Installed felt tape and two pieces of
foam at key frame locations to absorb noise. Rattle is now gone, all ok at this time.

Thanks, Tesla!