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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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Old (version) data, but posting it for general information:

v1.17.50
  • Vehicle unattended for 22 days while plugged into 14-50R receptable. Had at least one brownout during the period but apparently no blackouts > 2 hours (judging by my microwave at "RESET" but my computers -- with UPS -- still on).
  • Vehicle greeted me with a 12V warning, 225 miles of rated range, and an update pending.
  • Update is installing now.

so, by "old data", do you imply that the 12v warning eventually cleared up and came to naught, or did you have a battery issue?

thx.
 
I'm curious to know if we believe this is a hardware or software issue. My impression of the Model S door handles is that it takes too little effort to open the door. My current ICE uses a similar solenoid-type system to unlatch the doors, but the door handle travel is roughly equivalent to the travel on a regular mechanically latched door before the solenoid is activated. I wonder (worry?) if the switch in the handle is just too sensitive and activates the software too easily. (Hit a pothole and the mechanism "jiggles" enough to activate the system???).

There wasn't any bump or jiggle at the time this happened and I don't think my passenger touched the inside door handle. I assume the sensitivity can be set with software. Interestingly you need to pull twice on the inside door handle on my BMW for the door to open. ( for added safety no doubt )
 
I understand, but I do have the key. Am I really not in close enough proximity for the car to detect it? I back into my garage. It seems pedantic to insist that I walk up to my door and then backtrack to remove the charger.
My understanding is the sensors don't detect very well in the back of the car. For instance, I was warned not to put my key in a backpack and throw it in the trunk as the car won't see it and lock the key in the car. If I approach the rear of the car it generally doesn't autodetect, but coming from the front it usually does (though sometimes it won't detect until I get near the actual front door).

So, yea, you have to walk up to the door first and backtrack to the charger. Or click the fob.
 
so, by "old data", do you imply that the 12V warning eventually cleared up and came to naught, or did you have a battery issue?
thx.
By old I meant "not newest firmware version". Note that my 12V warning disappeared seconds after sitting in the vehicle and I began the update to 4.1 moments later, so I won't have hard data on how transient that warning was w/ 4.0 vs. a fix with 4.1 update.
 
Stability Control Disabled and Air Suspension Needs Service

I posted this at Telsamotors.com, but wanted to share it here as well.

I picked up my Model S 85 at the Fremont factory in mid-December and everything was well for the first week or so. Then these two warnings popped up on my screen and dash: 1) Stability Control Disabled 2) Air Suspension Needs Service. The car still seemed to drive fine and my manual changes to the air suspension while parked seemed to be as expected. I also upgraded from 4.0 to 4.1 software as it was pushed to me, but those warnings were still present. But it was now Christmas Eve, so I had to wait until the 27th to bring the car back to the Fremont Service Center. While I was there, I also had asked them to look at the chrome window trim on the driver side rear door which was misaligned with the rest of the trim as well as the hood, which had a significant gap with the front fascia when fully closed. A quick look at some of the cars coming off the factory line and getting tested at the service center showed that mine did have more of a gap.

After waiting 3 hours at the service center (watching a movie on my ipad), the techs and engineers weren't sure what was wrong to cause those 2 warnings, which was the first time any of them had seen those particular warnings. They wanted to keep the car for a few days, so they paid for an Enterprise rent a car, which I kept for 2 days only as I was leaving on vacation. Tesla would have covered a rental for the whole repair period had I wanted it. After about 3-4 days, it was discovered that a faulty YAW SENSOR was causing the service warning. That was replaced and the warnings are gone. I took BART to go retrieve my car and a courtesy shuttle was sent for me, although it was a bit disappointing that the driver just drove his own Ford F150 pickup. Everything was covered under warranty and my car was washed charged up to a standard charge for me. I did find that my homelink programming and my driver profiles were wiped out when I got my car back. My internet favorites were also gone. However, all my audio favorites and bluetooth pairings were still intact.

Overall, it was good experience with service and they were able to figure it out and repair it. It wasn't too much of an inconvenience as they provided the rental and i was out of town on vacation anyway.
 
I did find that my homelink programming and my driver profiles were wiped out when I got my car back. My internet favorites were also gone. However, all my audio favorites and bluetooth pairings were still intact.

Overall, it was good experience with service and they were able to figure it out and repair it.

Makes me wonder if there's a way to back up your stuff so you can restore easily... But the homelink, probably no way to restore that.
 
smd, Were they able to address the gap between the hood and the front fascia? I noticed that I have a good sized gap between the hood and the right front headlight vs. the left front headlight, and was planning on taking it in to see if they can fix it.

I have the same issue and plan to point it out when I bring it into the service center tomorrow. I'll let you know if they are able to do anything to fix this gap.
 
I understand, but I do have the key. Am I really not in close enough proximity for the car to detect it? I back into my garage. It seems pedantic to insist that I walk up to my door and then backtrack to remove the charger.

I call it the Tesla Two-Step: walk up to the charger port, sidestep toward the rear driver side door to make the car sense the fob in my left front pocket, sidestep back to the charger port, unlock charging cord, remove. It would be easier if I was right handed, though. :wink:
 
Rear door handle doesn't work from outside

I parked and attempted to open the driver side door to allow my grandson to get out in the garage. It was solid as a rock and would not open. I tried any number of things but no help. I called Tesla and they believe it is a faulty handle mechanism. Anyone else have the same problem?
 
I parked and attempted to open the driver side door to allow my grandson to get out in the garage. It was solid as a rock and would not open. I tried any number of things but no help. I called Tesla and they believe it is a faulty handle mechanism. Anyone else have the same problem?

I had a similar thing happen as well. After the problem, I rebooted the touch screen (Hold both left and right steering wheel scroll wheels down for a maybe 15-30 seconds to do so) and the center instrument display (hold both left and right hard buttons above the scroll wheels for up to a minute). Initially that didn't seem to help, but I parked the car and left it for a while. When I came back, the rear exterior door worked fine (my car actually had problems with both passenger side doors).

You might try a reboot and then let the car sit for awhile (I think mine took about an hour to finally reset).
 
I have talked to tech and this problem isn't uncommon. They said the failure can be intermittent. By the way, the handle light doesn't work. Don't know if that means something.
Thanks so much, I'll try the reboot.
That is the exact problem I had (handle extends / retracts, but light doesn't come on, door cannot be opened from outside, only inside handle releases door latch)

From looking at it a bit closer, it seemed the handle was a tiny bit out of alignment compared with the other handles (not extending as much, somewhat obstructing the tiny light, a little more recessed on one end when retracted)

So while the problem may be intermittent, it potentially can stay in the 'busted' mode for weeks at a time. :eek: And if you aren't anywhere near a service center (several hundred miles away for me until one in Raleigh opens hopefully this spring), it may be a while before you can readily get it fixed.

At least, that is how mine behaved, it stopped working in early December, then magically started cooperating again on Christmas Day :biggrin: (go figure)
 
my moves exactly, luckily am right handed.

I do more of a front-step then side-step, by approaching the rear door then step to the right. More suitable for 3/4 timing.

- - - Updated - - -

Makes me wonder if there's a way to back up your stuff so you can restore easily... But the homelink, probably no way to restore that.

Ugh. I hope they make more efforts to preserve that in the future. One of my Homelink settings requires me to bring my boom truck into the machine shop so I can hit the magic purple button on the big door's opener.
 
My understanding is the sensors don't detect very well in the back of the car. For instance, I was warned not to put my key in a backpack and throw it in the trunk as the car won't see it and lock the key in the car..

That's lame. My last 4 or 5 cars all pop the trunk if the keys are in there to prevent being locked out of the car. I though that feature was more or less standard on all 'keyless entry' cars. Presumably the fabled mobile app will allow for remote locking/unlocking.
 
My Front and Rear bumper covers don't match the body paint as closely as I would expect. Has anyone else had the same problem? My friend has a Signature Model S and there isn't a noticeable difference. I sent Tesla this picture yesterday.

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