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Assuming your car has good toe when you take delivery you shouldn’t need an extra alignment visit. Install and enjoy more usable grip and better tire wear. An alignment visit won’t hurt, just more hassle and expense.
Design looks exceedingly similar to the EV Tuning ones (They no longer have them). I had a bad experience with EV Tunings as they had defective bushings. I'm currently trying to find replacement bushings to see if I can salvage the arms, but seems like the oddball size isn't available.
How are the bushings in your product? Have they been holding up? Are they the same size as the Tesla Stock bushings? If not, are replacement bushings available for future replacement?
Thanks!
 
I have a 2017 MX with 79,000 miles on it. I have had to replace the tires every 25k miles. I have had the half shaft fix by Tesla twice, once around 25k and second around 50k miles. I am currently close to needing my 4th set of tires, so am trying to get up to speed on the options to help the rear tire wear. I also occasionally think I may be feeling the return of the half shaft shudder, but nothing overt yet.

I understand that the N2itive kit will help on both the rear inner tire wear and the shudder. I would not be interested in lowering the car except I am open to slight lowering to help with the half shaft issue. I am understanding that camber can’t be adjusted with the OEM setup. But I am not understanding the ideal setting for either camber or toe.

Here was my last alignment in December:

(Trouble loading will try again when I am on wifi…)

So can I get away with just camber arms, toe arms, or do I really need the whole kit?

I plan to keep this car forever.
 
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Here was my last alignment in December:

(Trouble loading will try again when I am on wifi…)
C20D2FB4-9ED8-4277-845F-4F0C4221BFA2.jpeg

I am understanding that ideally camber should be closer to -0.5 (although my numbers are technically within spec.)
I agree that you only need the camber arms to prevent uneven tire wear while also preventing shudder given two things: Your toe is currently set correctly and the camber arms are adjusted so that you can always drive in low or very low.
What is the ideal toe?
 
I did the Macsboost Shims on a 2022 LR Refreshed MX. All went well, but the 30 minutes to install. Yea....

Maybe if have done before and have all tools ready and a prybar and some wood ready to act as a lever to pull the arm away from the mount so you can insert the shim.

First side I did all by myself. Probably 45 minutes getting tools that worked and a prybar setup to work. Second side, I had wife out and use all her weight to pry on the brake to get enough clearance to insert shim. Probably took 20 minutes to insert shims and adjust toe the fixed amount like instructions say.

Once installed, seems good. Will know in 10k miles if the insides aren't bald like the existing ones.
 
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I did the Macsboost Shims on a 2022 LR Refreshed MX. All went well, but the 30 minutes to install. Yea....

Maybe if have done before and have all tools ready and a prybar and some wood ready to act as a lever to pull the arm away from the mount so you can insert the shim.

First side I did all by myself. Probably 45 minutes getting tools that worked and a prybar setup to work. Second side, I had wife out and use all her weight to pry on the brake to get enough clearance to insert shim. Probably took 20 minutes to insert shims and adjust toe the fixed amount like instructions say.

Once installed, seems good. Will know in 10k miles if the insides aren't bald like the existing ones.
Visually does it looks like the wheels/tires sit differently? Like you have spacers?

Thanks for the write up. I’ve been looking at the macsboost solution for our 2023 plaid but was confused it if was an adjustable setup or fixed shim.
 
Visually does it looks like the wheels/tires sit differently? Like you have spacers?

Thanks for the write up. I’ve been looking at the macsboost solution for our 2023 plaid but was confused it if was an adjustable setup or fixed shim.
I don't think it looks different. Maybe from behind the camber change makes to the tires aren't "leaning in", but have to be looking for it.

Not check for spacers and instructions, but Stainless steel, quality parts. I would do it again, as stock Tesla inside tire wear sucks and should have been fixed on the refresh, but nope.

I took a video of how I used a prybar and blocks of wood to pry the assembly down to get clearance to put the shim in and how I used adjustable wrenches (all I had that was that big) to adjust the toe. Maybe I'll make it into a youtube video.
 
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View attachment 949305
I am understanding that ideally camber should be closer to -0.5 (although my numbers are technically within spec.)

What is the ideal toe?
ideal would be straight or 0 all the time. The reality is the tires are rubber, the bushings are rubber, metal bends (though may not seem much) when forces are applied. Thus initial toe is sometimes compensating statically for what you see dynamically. Generally you want straight to just a little toe in when you are aligning.
 
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Design looks exceedingly similar to the EV Tuning ones (They no longer have them). I had a bad experience with EV Tunings as they had defective bushings. I'm currently trying to find replacement bushings to see if I can salvage the arms, but seems like the oddball size isn't available.
How are the bushings in your product? Have they been holding up? Are they the same size as the Tesla Stock bushings? If not, are replacement bushings available for future replacement?
Thanks!
No bushings with the macsboost product. It's literally just 2 shims that push the top of the the wheel out to decrease camber. They then have you adjust toe to be back where you started. I haven't done my "after" alignment check but the car still seems to drive the same. I always drive around in Low suspension setting in the hope of saving the half shafts. I wasn't able to pry enough to drop the shims in so I ended up disconnecting the other end which made it a lot easier.
 
No bushings with the macsboost product. It's literally just 2 shims that push the top of the the wheel out to decrease camber. They then have you adjust toe to be back where you started. I haven't done my "after" alignment check but the car still seems to drive the same. I always drive around in Low suspension setting in the hope of saving the half shafts. I wasn't able to pry enough to drop the shims in so I ended up disconnecting the other end which made it a lot easier.
Website shows otherwise. MACSBOOST Tesla S X Camber arm set - MACSBOOST.com
Shims are for the palladium (2021) and newer.
 
I'm a bit angry at the moment but I need this corrected and is why I came here for help.
Angry because I've been pumping this rear driver's tire every few days with 3-4 lbs and wondering if I had a nail or something. After laying down on the driveway and looking up at the wheel well and seeing the threads coming apart on the inside of the tire, well, I'm angry. This because this happened on a front tire about a year ago. The SC replaced the front drive arms I think it was and I haven't noticed any problem with air leakage, yet. Thinking about this now I should inspect the tire tread on the front too now.

Macboost seems the way to go here for me. My MXLR was bought new in December of 2020. Why I have to pay for this nonsense when it is a known fact that it is a Tesla faulty design, (right?), is rankling me like a class action suit. We pay a premium but get less than what we pay for with something like this? Enough of the rant. (The anger actually comes from not paying attention after looking at this problem and then backing the car into the mailbox and ripping the Xpel wrap on the back quarter panel. Another needless expense on top of this Macboost mod. Grrrr!)

So, I order the Macboost arms and any tire shop can install these? I for sure do not want to go to a Telsa SC as I'm sure I'll hear that they won't do it as it's not an official Tesla product. Help me out here. I need this done as soon as possible now. Now, the wife has to drive my MYLR for her daily real estate travels and I'm stuck with this faulty X.
 
Macboost seems the way to go here for me. My MXLR was bought new in December of 2020. Why I have to pay for this nonsense when it is a known fact that it is a Tesla faulty design, (right?), is rankling me like a class action suit. We pay a premium but get less than what we pay for with something like this? Enough of the rant. (The anger actually comes from not paying attention after looking at this problem and then backing the car into the mailbox and ripping the Xpel wrap on the back quarter panel. Another needless expense on top of this Macboost mod. Grrrr!)

So, I order the Macboost arms and any tire shop can install these? I for sure do not want to go to a Telsa SC as I'm sure I'll hear that they won't do it as it's not an official Tesla product. Help me out here. I need this done as soon as possible now. Now, the wife has to drive my MYLR for her daily real estate travels and I'm stuck with this faulty X.
All high performance vehicles are being delivered with extreme rear camber. They do this because people are terrible drivers (driver training here in the US is absolute and complete garbage). When finding themselves too fast for a corner, people will lift off the accelerator. This will cause the rear end to come around quickly as weight transfers to the front. Manufacturers dial in more rear camber to compensate for this tendency (called "lift throttle oversteer").

So any tire shop could do it and then verify the alignment but they may not want to install aftermarket products. You may want to look for a "speed shop" or "performance auto shop". They will definitely do it.
 
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Anyone tried the Unplugged Performance upper links?
Yes, I have them installed quite expensive but I like they are manufactured with no welding parts. Just machined alu alloy. The shop installed them the wrong way, so I told them to install with the adjusted part to the wheel side, which is correct. Otherwise the height will not be the same as before..
I think they are very good, but so far only 3500 km.
 
Yes, I have them installed quite expensive but I like they are manufactured with no welding parts. Just machined alu alloy. The shop installed them the wrong way, so I told them to install with the adjusted part to the wheel side, which is correct. Otherwise the height will not be the same as before..
I think they are very good, but so far only 3500 km.
What do you mean by different height? Does it affect the ride height?
 
I'm a bit angry at the moment but I need this corrected and is why I came here for help.
Angry because I've been pumping this rear driver's tire every few days with 3-4 lbs and wondering if I had a nail or something. After laying down on the driveway and looking up at the wheel well and seeing the threads coming apart on the inside of the tire, well, I'm angry. This because this happened on a front tire about a year ago. The SC replaced the front drive arms I think it was and I haven't noticed any problem with air leakage, yet. Thinking about this now I should inspect the tire tread on the front too now.

Macboost seems the way to go here for me. My MXLR was bought new in December of 2020. Why I have to pay for this nonsense when it is a known fact that it is a Tesla faulty design, (right?), is rankling me like a class action suit. We pay a premium but get less than what we pay for with something like this? Enough of the rant. (The anger actually comes from not paying attention after looking at this problem and then backing the car into the mailbox and ripping the Xpel wrap on the back quarter panel. Another needless expense on top of this Macboost mod. Grrrr!)

So, I order the Macboost arms and any tire shop can install these? I for sure do not want to go to a Telsa SC as I'm sure I'll hear that they won't do it as it's not an official Tesla product. Help me out here. I need this done as soon as possible now. Now, the wife has to drive my MYLR for her daily real estate travels and I'm stuck with this faulty X.

Are you looking for a fix to the rear or the front? Did you have your alignment checked at an independent shop to find out the issue?
 
What do you mean by different height? Does it affect the ride height?
Yes the original distance for the height sensor attachment in the camber link is only correct with the adjustment screws at the road wheel side. If opposite the distance will normally be longer and the sensor link is not in original position. The sensor will therefore compensate and alter the original height of the rear!
This is also valid for other makes of camber links, for older models S and X. The only exception is a very new version of N2itive. They have a compensation device built in the link (a little bit complex I think to use).