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Wiki Model X Refresh Issues Thread

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Just got back home from a 600 mile round trip. I am on the latest software and happy to report no issues with the car freaking out after supercharging. We made several SC stops at both 150kw and 250kw chargers…. Now I have never experienced the issue not even when I first got the car and it was on 2021.43.201…. I am now on 2022.12.1

I’ve also never had the safety restraint warning error either.

The one issue that I’ve had was the charge port door not opening with the button and that seems to be resolved now with this latest update.

So I guess this is not totally a software thing being that some cars have experienced it and others haven’t at all. There has to be another factor involved
I can report that for people still experiencing issues with Supercharging, its still occurring on my car with 2022.12.1. I have the dreaded safety restraint fault which the service center claims is due to a bad body control module. This is being fixed on Monday. However we did a 200 mile round trip today and Supercharged and I can replicate the issue fairly consistently. For, it occurs whenever the car in "Preconditioning For Fast Charging" (ie, when navigating to a SC) and the battery is already warm from driving. It seems to get triggered whenever the backup camera is activated. This happened once when I put the car into reverse at the charger (camera feed was frozen or super laggy) and then the car starting throwing random errors on the dash screen **even before I plugged in***. The car lost Internet connectivity as well and the USB is too small warning came back. Dashcam stopped working too. Soft reset fixed it temporarily, but even after driving after supercharging, the car kept throwing errors including autopilot "take over immediately" errors. Another soft reset fixed it.

I then navigated to local Supercharger close to home to see if I could replicate it. This time I let it precondition for 10 minutes then opened the backup camera using the camera app (not reverse, not at the charger yet). The car did the exact same thing, totally wigged out. I canceled the nav to the charger and drove home but did not reset it this time. The car kept up with all the random errors all the way home. Soft reboot and its fine now.

So strange. I hope its just the faulty part they are replacing, but I wonder if this is an issue with the main computers or even the heating/cooling system for the battery and MCU.
 
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We drove from ATL to FL and back. Multiple superchargers along the way. However, the first time it happened was after 1.5 hours of driving without supercharging. For me, car is fine until I put in reverse and bring up the backup camera. The backup camera seems to be the trigger 100% of the time (again for me anyway).

Mine appears to be a hardware issue. Tesla reviewed my logs during trip and has ordered parts for my SC visit on 5/2.
Did they tell you what parts they ordered?
 
What's to keep the replacement from overheating?
Exactly it seems strange to replace the computer for overheating when the MCU is traditionally liquid cooled (and I’m assuming this is still the case with the refresh S/X). I’ve never had mine freeze up / glitch unless it was preconditioning the battery. Then again I live in MN and it’s otherwise fairly cold still.
 
Exactly it seems strange to replace the computer for overheating when the MCU is traditionally liquid cooled (and I’m assuming this is still the case with the refresh S/X). I’ve never had mine freeze up / glitch unless it was preconditioning the battery. Then again I live in MN and it’s otherwise fairly cold still.

Yep. Don’t know the reality of the situation at this point. Just quoted my chat (in the app) with support. I logged a Bug Report every time I had to reboot to clear the issue. It occurred probably 10 times during our trip. Every instance was triggered when backup camera was engaged. Supercharging or preconditioning was not a requirement. Any time I had been driving for more than an hour, I would get the issue. Support reviewed my log/bug reports and noted heat related processor issues every time.

Support suggested they would replace the “computer”. I am not sure what this means to Tesla. It could be the processor itself only or a module that includes the processor and cooling system.

I’ll know more on 5/2.

BTW, have not had any issues since we returned from our trip. Day to day city driving is not an issue.
 
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Yep. Don’t know the reality of the situation at this point. Just quoted my chat (in the app) with support. I logged a Bug Report every time I had to reboot to clear the issue. It occurred probably 10 times during our trip. Every instance was triggered when backup camera was engaged. Supercharging or preconditioning was not a requirement. Any time I had been driving for more than an hour, I would get the issue. Support reviewed my log/bug reports and noted heat related processor issues every time.

Support suggested they would replace the “computer”. I am not sure what this means to Tesla. It could be the processor itself only or a module that includes the processor and cooling system.

I’ll know more on 5/2.

BTW, have not had any issues since we returned from our trip. Day to day city driving is not an issue.
My car is going in tomorrow and I’ll see what they say. Hopefully replacing the body control module fixes the seat restraint fault at the least. Hope they can diagnose this overheating issue. The saving grace to all this is the car still runs, drives, and Supercharges despite these glitches. If it didn’t, it would be a nightmare of a road trip!
 
Yep. Don’t know the reality of the situation at this point. Just quoted my chat (in the app) with support. I logged a Bug Report every time I had to reboot to clear the issue. It occurred probably 10 times during our trip. Every instance was triggered when backup camera was engaged. Supercharging or preconditioning was not a requirement. Any time I had been driving for more than an hour, I would get the issue. Support reviewed my log/bug reports and noted heat related processor issues every time.

Support suggested they would replace the “computer”. I am not sure what this means to Tesla. It could be the processor itself only or a module that includes the processor and cooling system.

I’ll know more on 5/2.

BTW, have not had any issues since we returned from our trip. Day to day city driving is not an issue.
Since it’s happening on multiple cars I highly doubt it’s the computer. Sounds like a design issue somewhere. Either coolant is to hot reaching computer, computer cooling issue. Or a part on the bus (probably liquid cooled) that when it gets warm causes trouble. I can only imagine how things will go once sumner starts heating things up. So bizarre it takes backup camera to trigger it. Well it could be anything that triggers in reverse. I wonder if in reverse hot liquid gets pumped to computer. Be nice to see if computer overheating triggers as soon as you go in reverse. It almost has to based on what’s been shared.
 
Since it’s happening on multiple cars I highly doubt it’s the computer. Sounds like a design issue somewhere. Either coolant is to hot reaching computer, computer cooling issue. Or a part on the bus (probably liquid cooled) that when it gets warm causes trouble. I can only imagine how things will go once sumner starts heating things up. So bizarre it takes backup camera to trigger it. Well it could be anything that triggers in reverse. I wonder if in reverse hot liquid gets pumped to computer. Be nice to see if computer overheating triggers as soon as you go in reverse. It almost has to based on what’s been shared.

Whatever it is they decide to do, I’ll be able to give it a good test.

The weekend before my service appt I am traveling to Nashville and will be able to confirm I continue to have the issue on 2022.12.1.

The weekend after service appt I have a trip to Tuscaloosa for college grad ceremony. So I’ll know for sure if they fixed it.
 
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Does anyone know the settings for the adaptive suspension to decrease excessive tire wear?
It really depends on your tire alignment, which can vary from car to car. As far as I can tell, the "medium" setting is better than "low," but I believe the software automatically sets it back to low once you reach ~55mph. Similarly, it lowers from "very high" ~10mph and it lowers from "high" ~35mph (I might be wrong on the numbers, but the idea is the same). Also, I think the car starts you in "low" with every drive.

I don't think there is any way to prevent the car from automatically lowering, nor any way to prevent it from switching back to "low" for the start of each drive. That said, the lower the setting, the less likely that the half-shafts will go bad and start vibrating upon quick acceleration (a known issue). If I had to guess, that's why the software things I mentioned are not adjustable.

So really your best bet is to get the tires aligned in the "low" setting to ensure camber (and toe and all the other metrics) is as good as possible. My service center told me their equipment isn't able to align in low...I don't remember the reasoning.

Also, some folks have recommended a specific lowering kit made by a third party, but honestly it typically feels inorganic when people mention it and I'm skeptical as to whether it's actually a good purchase (vs. a product that is marketed via a guerilla advertising campaign/the people recommending it have some sort of financial or other incentive in doing so). The kit would involve buying the third-party product (which I want to say is about $2,000?) and then taking your vehicle to a third-party shop to have it installed/have the wheels aligned.

Once my car is approaching the end of its warranty, I will probably look into something like that--theoretically it could improve your efficiency/range as well, in addition to being easier on your half-shafts and providing a better tire wear pattern. But until then, I don't really want to risk creating hurdles to getting a warranty replacement on the half-shafts or other components around the tires/suspension, should something happen to go bad during my warranty period.
 
It really depends on your tire alignment, which can vary from car to car. As far as I can tell, the "medium" setting is better than "low," but I believe the software automatically sets it back to low once you reach ~55mph. Similarly, it lowers from "very high" ~10mph and it lowers from "high" ~35mph (I might be wrong on the numbers, but the idea is the same). Also, I think the car starts you in "low" with every drive.

I don't think there is any way to prevent the car from automatically lowering, nor any way to prevent it from switching back to "low" for the start of each drive. That said, the lower the setting, the less likely that the half-shafts will go bad and start vibrating upon quick acceleration (a known issue). If I had to guess, that's why the software things I mentioned are not adjustable.

So really your best bet is to get the tires aligned in the "low" setting to ensure camber (and toe and all the other metrics) is as good as possible. My service center told me their equipment isn't able to align in low...I don't remember the reasoning.

Also, some folks have recommended a specific lowering kit made by a third party, but honestly it typically feels inorganic when people mention it and I'm skeptical as to whether it's actually a good purchase (vs. a product that is marketed via a guerilla advertising campaign/the people recommending it have some sort of financial or other incentive in doing so). The kit would involve buying the third-party product (which I want to say is about $2,000?) and then taking your vehicle to a third-party shop to have it installed/have the wheels aligned.

Once my car is approaching the end of its warranty, I will probably look into something like that--theoretically it could improve your efficiency/range as well, in addition to being easier on your half-shafts and providing a better tire wear pattern. But until then, I don't really want to risk creating hurdles to getting a warranty replacement on the half-shafts or other components around the tires/suspension, should something happen to go bad during my warranty period.
One slight problem. With it on low you can’t set the camber correctly. At least on Previous Generation X. And I don’t think that has changed. It’s partly why I hot rid of my X. It had the vibration and the tires wearing out on the inside. Needed 3rd party parts to fix.
 
One slight problem. With it on low you can’t set the camber correctly. At least on Previous Generation X. And I don’t think that has changed. It’s partly why I hot rid of my X. It had the vibration and the tires wearing out on the inside. Needed 3rd party parts to fix.

Actually, the previous generation you could because there are multiple reputable aftermarket adjustable upper control arms. The current refresh is still at least few months off before those same companies have a product.

The stock "very low" height already needs correcting as it's -2.1 degrees. Lowering another inch will put that at -2.5. You really need no more than -1.3 to prevent acceleration tire wear.

My P85D was -1.7 on the rears at "normal" and -2.1 at the very lowest setting. I replaced the upper control arms with adjustable arms made by BBC. It I bought them in 2016, they were the only choice. Now there are a half dozen. I set these to -1.1 on medium which was about -1.3 on low. This was in conjunction with an additional 1" lowering which I did by 3d printing my lowering links.

img_20160520_151849618-jpg.177442
 
Actually, the previous generation you could because there are multiple reputable aftermarket adjustable upper control arms. The current refresh is still at least few months off before those same companies have a product.

The stock "very low" height already needs correcting as it's -2.1 degrees. Lowering another inch will put that at -2.5. You really need no more than -1.3 to prevent acceleration tire wear.

My P85D was -1.7 on the rears at "normal" and -2.1 at the very lowest setting. I replaced the upper control arms with adjustable arms made by BBC. It I bought them in 2016, they were the only choice. Now there are a half dozen. I set these to -1.1 on medium which was about -1.3 on low. This was in conjunction with an additional 1" lowering which I did by 3d printing my lowering links.

img_20160520_151849618-jpg.177442
I said previous generation could be fixed with 3rd party arms. I just didn’t want to get into that. So the refresh X is different enough that it needs a different adjustable upper arm? Hard to believe they made changes and didn’t make that adjustable. Or tune things for proper camber on low.

What is the ideal camber? You want some, right?

You know quite a bit on this topic :). How much do you know about the S? I’ve assumed it’s all the same, but everything to a lesser degree. Less vibration issues (but still some) and less tire wear in the inside on low.
 
Do your cars wheeze?

Mine makes this wheezing sound I hear at a stop light or pull into the garage. It is quiet and I can only hear it when there is no outside noise from the tire, wind, etc. Sounds just like Grandma when she falls asleep watching TV. I wonder if it is the vent directional motors moving.
Yes, I can hear the same wheezing sound sometimes when at a stoplight or parked. I think it may be the HVAC motors adjusting the internal louvers for the airflow, as someone else mentioned.