I have been adjusting the latch/locking mechanism with no luck. Even change the emergency pulley as suggested above. Can you upload some pictures of the latch and spring? that would help a lot thanks!
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Model Y Hansshow V5 Frunk opener help
- Thread starter Vauldur
- Start date
Hi Vauldur, I just did the same. How did you resolve your issue? Need some help as well. Thanks
man i can't even get the hook to latch.. it just close right above the latch and sits there.
video here -> WhatsApp Video 2021-12-10 at 3.28.33 PM
video here -> WhatsApp Video 2021-12-10 at 3.28.33 PM
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I was never able to get mine to work, and their support couldnt figure it out either and they wanted to send me a new one. I decided at that time it wasnt for me and took it out and fought with them and the credit card company to get my money back. If you end up on that road you will need about a 2ft long pry bar to get the shocks off the bottom clamp, you pry against the shock and bracket and it will pop off
I moved the motor that pulls the latch close to the middle on top of the aluminum cross member infront of the heat pump. no luck there and it didn't close it. However, If I lightly push down on top of the frunk (weight of my hand) when closing, then the motor is able to latch it close. Any thoughts what I should do?
looks like small progress.
did you frunk hook latch before moving? or does it hit the locking assembly and stops? i'm doing that and scratching my head. The thing is i can't drive the car without having the frunk fully locked... and now stuck not knowing what the next steps should be
It latched before. Had to force it in the latch. When the frunk is open, manually close the frunk, while pushing the frunk down. use the mobile app to lock/unlock. This will engage the lock. Doing this let me drive my car for the time being. Didn't solve my problem.
It looks like I do not have enough closing force. My frunk bounces on impact. While all the videos have a nice solid connect.
Does anyone know how to increase the closing force?
Does it pull it down but after it 'latches' it bounces back up? That's what happened to me. When the tub wasn't installed the hood would close normally. But as soon as I reinstalled the tub the hood wouldn't close. The gasket around the tub created enough resistance that it activated the anti pinch. What I did was move the latch higher up. You really have to play with the position of the latch
I took my MY to a shop and they just tried installing the ver5 and has the same problem..the frunk closes but the latch wouldnt lock and bounce back up and i had to manually push it down to lock each time...after hours of trying and adjusting, we finally gave up...if anyone found the answer to this, other than returning to store, id love to hear!!
I didn’t. Was no longer worth the trouble, frustration, money or effort necessary. I basically took it right out of the car, also finding out how difficult it was to remove the hood struts. Theres a reason Tesla has wrenchable lower strut mounts going into the fender and this kit replaces them completely, making it extremey difficult (at least for me) to take out without dismantling that area of the car, especially on the driver side where there is already little to no clearance. For me it was a waste of money, i threw the kit out.
I recently helped install another v5 auto frunk. Again after the initial install, the frunk wouldn't latch properly on its own. We kept readjusting it. Finally I ran out of time and was going to try it again another day. We managed to get it to a point where it would close fully but required some human help at the very end. The following morning we tried the latch again and it started to work on its own. Maybe it's just luck or maybe it has to do with the 12V possibly running low on charge after hours of working on it preventing it from sleeping.
I used a prybar to get mine out then fought with hansshow to ge tmy money back, they eventually refunded it but it was a pain in the ass.
It's really hard to deal with companies based overseas without having an authorized dealer/installer around where we are. Especially with products that are not direct replacement and that require adjustments.
With that said, the most common issues I find (having experience installing both Hansshow and Tesla Offer version) are that
1. The cable that gets pulled by the motor after it latches is too loose. Hence, when the motor winds up, only the slack in the cable is tugged which leaves the spring loaded latch in its place. I've had to tighten the slack on both kits.
2. Power going to the cable motor is not properly connected. I've had to adjust a pin in the wiring harness myself on the Hansshow kit because it wasn't clicking into place properly.
With that said, the most common issues I find (having experience installing both Hansshow and Tesla Offer version) are that
1. The cable that gets pulled by the motor after it latches is too loose. Hence, when the motor winds up, only the slack in the cable is tugged which leaves the spring loaded latch in its place. I've had to tighten the slack on both kits.
2. Power going to the cable motor is not properly connected. I've had to adjust a pin in the wiring harness myself on the Hansshow kit because it wasn't clicking into place properly.
FWIW, I was able to finally fit the frunk. It's a matter of contacting Hansshow support via whatsapp, adjust the time zones, but they were very helpful guiding me along the installation (whatsapp video call).
At first I was fearing the struts installation was the cause of the problem. I got on the phone with them and confirmed the struts were fine. Hansshow did mention I did not put all the screws in the strut support frame so took me some time to get my hands on the driver side.
at one time we decided it was best to isloate emergency release cable that hooks onto the Tesla lock, so that was taken out during the alignment
We went through almost an hour of diagnostic and troubleshooting, and guided me aligning the latching mechanism. The support staff in China was patient and actually called me back after his lunch hour and check on me.
Overall, the instructions were confusing, that was a given. Looking at youtube video installs never really address the elephant in the room, replacing the strut on the driver's side. The opening is small and even if you got your arms around it, it was hard to provide leverage as you need some force to snap in the strut to the bracket. The passenger side strut TOOK ME OVER TWO HOURS. Once they were in, plan additional time for alignment.
here are some installation takeaways
1. Hansshow piggy back piece contains a plastic flap, once the hook lowers enough, it hits the plastic flap and in turns triggers the latching switch from your tesla latch. adjust Hansshow piggy back piece upwards so the Frunk hook has a better chance trigger the plastic flap and hit the switch.
2. Align the original latch EXACTLY where the frunk hook will land. There is a V plastic alignment pattern on the Y, you'd want to align the original lock to the middle of the V
3. you will know if the frunk hook drops low enough to hit the Hansshow plastic flap. if it doesn't trigger the Tesla latch, then adjust the Hansshow piggy piece UPWARDS.
4. If it triggers the latching mechanism but not catching the Frunk Hook, you'll spend some time to adjust lateral movement of the Tesla latching piece.
5. if you activate the trigger and the latch locks without hooking the frunk, DO NOT pull your hood up. The device believes your frunk is closed and if you pull the frunk up you'll need to reset it by unplugging the power to the main computer unit. (of course it's not on the installation guide)+
Here're the videos Hansshow support shared during his lunch break.
At first I was fearing the struts installation was the cause of the problem. I got on the phone with them and confirmed the struts were fine. Hansshow did mention I did not put all the screws in the strut support frame so took me some time to get my hands on the driver side.
at one time we decided it was best to isloate emergency release cable that hooks onto the Tesla lock, so that was taken out during the alignment
We went through almost an hour of diagnostic and troubleshooting, and guided me aligning the latching mechanism. The support staff in China was patient and actually called me back after his lunch hour and check on me.
Overall, the instructions were confusing, that was a given. Looking at youtube video installs never really address the elephant in the room, replacing the strut on the driver's side. The opening is small and even if you got your arms around it, it was hard to provide leverage as you need some force to snap in the strut to the bracket. The passenger side strut TOOK ME OVER TWO HOURS. Once they were in, plan additional time for alignment.
here are some installation takeaways
1. Hansshow piggy back piece contains a plastic flap, once the hook lowers enough, it hits the plastic flap and in turns triggers the latching switch from your tesla latch. adjust Hansshow piggy back piece upwards so the Frunk hook has a better chance trigger the plastic flap and hit the switch.
2. Align the original latch EXACTLY where the frunk hook will land. There is a V plastic alignment pattern on the Y, you'd want to align the original lock to the middle of the V
3. you will know if the frunk hook drops low enough to hit the Hansshow plastic flap. if it doesn't trigger the Tesla latch, then adjust the Hansshow piggy piece UPWARDS.
4. If it triggers the latching mechanism but not catching the Frunk Hook, you'll spend some time to adjust lateral movement of the Tesla latching piece.
5. if you activate the trigger and the latch locks without hooking the frunk, DO NOT pull your hood up. The device believes your frunk is closed and if you pull the frunk up you'll need to reset it by unplugging the power to the main computer unit. (of course it's not on the installation guide)+
Here're the videos Hansshow support shared during his lunch break.
I fought with the hood closing and then popping back up. I spent forever adjusting the lock like everyone is mentioning. This is NOT the problem. If the lock isn’t aligned the hood will not close at all. If your hood closes completely but then pops back up this means the lock isn’t hitting the second stage. For safety the locks have two stages of locking to prevent it from accidentally opening while driving.
The problem is the emergency manual cable that hansshow wants you to add can prevent the release from fully disengaging. The slightest tension on the release and the first stage locks no problem but the second stage won’t.
I just removed the manual release and everything is good. Hopefully this saves someone the hours of head scratching I ran into.
Brian
The problem is the emergency manual cable that hansshow wants you to add can prevent the release from fully disengaging. The slightest tension on the release and the first stage locks no problem but the second stage won’t.
I just removed the manual release and everything is good. Hopefully this saves someone the hours of head scratching I ran into.
Brian
Vin_L
Member
bluenycom
Member
Agreed. I installed both, mine with Tesla Offer and my brother with Hannshow. The struts are basically identical. The latch and motor installation is easier to align with Tesla Offer.
