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Why you should skip the powered frunk and grab a Satonic soft close frunk

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I think the issue is that due to poor Tesla design, water would pool around the frunk latch area. Sooner or later the water would get onto the latch motor assembly and only time will tell if that'll cause havoc.
That's not an issue because that area is designed to be allowed to be wet (as people pointed out in the thread linked, look where the seal is). This only became an issue for aftermarket parts because they are poorly or not weather sealed at all. Even though there are literally millions of cars with the OEM latch, you rarely hear about the OEM latch getting stuck. However with the aftermarket frunk latches, for the relatively few that have been installed, there are a good portion of accounts of that happening.
 
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That's not an issue because that area is designed to be allowed to be wet (as people pointed out in the thread linked, look where the seal is). This only became an issue for aftermarket parts because they are poorly or not weather sealed at all. Even though there are literally millions of cars with the OEM latch, you rarely hear about the OEM latch getting stuck. However with the aftermarket frunk latches, for the relatively few that have been installed, there are a good portion of accounts of that happening.
That's what I'm referring to, the aftermarket latch motor is directly under the opening where the water could drip into.
 
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That's what I'm referring to, the aftermarket latch motor is directly under the opening where the water could drip into.
But that's the aftermarket latch designer's fault if that's the case. Your comment about "poor Tesla design" seems to place the blame on Tesla, when the design seems to work just fine for the OEM latch.
 
It's poor design to have a pool of water under the hood after a rain. 2022 Model Y frunk water puddle
That's how practically all hoods in cars are, the water is allowed to get in because there is no seal on the edge of the hood and that area is expected to be exposed to water. Most people don't notice in other cars because people rarely have a need to open the hood. And the water is just on plastic in that picture, so it doesn't affect anything. That specific post is from a car wash, as pointed out later in the thread, if the car moves at speed, that water will go out the edges, plus car washes tend to have pressurized water that is different from rain.

And note the aftermarket latches are failing even on the 3, even though the frunk latch is within the weather sealed area for the 3, so what you pointed out is a red herring anyways.
Tesla-Model-3-old-frunk-4.jpg


As per the accounts, the failure of the aftermarket units is because the control boxes and motor units are not weather sealed nor are they designed for high humidity environments, so moisture can get in even if water doesn't directly hit it. Then the control box or motor eventually fails over time. That's why there's been so many versions released (including band-aid solutions like rubber bags).
Problem with Hansshow Support

I personally have a humidity sensor in one of the quarter panels, which doesn't get any direct water when it rains, but humidity levels still hit 100% when it rains (as expected, given there are no air seals to seal the area). Any parts in those areas that are not designed to deal with the high humidity will eventually fail.
 
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That's how practically all hoods in cars are, the water is allowed to get in because there is no seal on the edge of the hood and that area is expected to be exposed to water. Most people don't notice in other cars because people rarely have a need to open the hood. And the water is just on plastic in that picture, so it doesn't affect anything. That specific post is from a car wash, as pointed out later in the thread, if the car moves at speed, that water will go out the edges, plus car washes tend to have pressurized water that is different from rain.

And note the aftermarket latches are failing even on the 3, even though the frunk latch is within the weather sealed area for the 3, so what you pointed out is a red herring anyways.
Tesla-Model-3-old-frunk-4.jpg


As per the accounts, the failure of the aftermarket units is because the control boxes and motor units are not weather sealed nor are they designed for high humidity environments, so moisture can get in even if water doesn't directly hit it. Then the control box or motor eventually fails over time. That's why there's been so many versions released (including band-aid solutions like rubber bags).
Problem with Hansshow Support

I personally have a humidity sensor in one of the quarter panels, which doesn't get any direct water when it rains, but humidity levels still hit 100% when it rains (as expected, given there are no air seals to seal the area). Any parts in those areas that are not designed to deal with the high humidity will eventually fail.
So, is there any user remedy to mitigate the humidity/water intrusion in these aftermarket latch kits?
 
So, is there any user remedy to mitigate the humidity/water intrusion in these aftermarket latch kits?
The bandaid solution I have seen for the control box is to put it in a waterproof bag and mount it in a way such that any humidity that condenses will drain downward to the bottom (including having any cables going up to the box; don't have any going down, because any condensed water on the cable can follow along the cable and drain into the control box from gravity). Another idea is to use your own enclosure (like maybe those plastic weatherproof boxes with grommets that you can find at hardware stores).

For the motor and other components (like the steel cable) I'm not sure how you would fix that. For the remote frunk kits, I have read the aftermarket kits just use off the shelf motors that are not weatherproof, which is why they corrode and eventually seize up. The cable also can rust and seize up. For those, perhaps a bandaid fix can be to apply lots of waterproof lube, although it may need to be regularly reapplied. I'm not sure if it is possible to lube the steel actuator cables however.
 
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The bandaid solution I have seen for the control box is to put it in a waterproof bag and mount it in a way such that any humidity that condenses will drain downward to the bottom (including having any cables going up to the box; don't have any going down, because any condensed water on the cable can follow along the cable and drain into the control box from gravity). Another idea is to use your own enclosure (like maybe those plastic weatherproof boxes with grommets that you can find at hardware stores).

For the motor and other components (like the steel cable) I'm not sure how you would fix that. For the remote frunk kits, I have read the aftermarket kits just use off the shelf motors that are not weatherproof, which is why they corrode and eventually seize up. The cable also can rust and seize up. For those, perhaps a bandaid fix can be to apply lots of waterproof lube, although it may need to be regularly reapplied. I'm not sure if it is possible to lube the steel actuator cables however.

The electronics on the early Hansshow units weren't sealed at all, so after failing, they started providing bags. But the newer ones for all brands seem to be much better.
 
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Here is yet another version. This one claims ip68 waterproof and emergency release cable. It looks like the control box is integrated into the motor housing.
 

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The Archille's heel is this fully exposed switch for the latch activation. It's right next to the latch opening and not protected at all.

Credit to JohnnyRuz for the photo.
View attachment 1025818
i installed the futhope version and while they use 1 latch sensor, the original tesla hatch release has 2 of these for redundancy and not sealed either. i questioned it also until i did the install
 
Ok. I had a clear couple of hours last night. So I ended up spending 4 hours on this. And now have a sore back.

I have the Satonic V2, which is a two piece design.

Hello @bcarp! I did the 4+ hour install and I have a sore back also. This should be added to the instruction sheet!

I am installing the device in a mid-2023 Model Y LR. I think I have the Satanic V2 also. The motor side looks like the photo below.

After adding some washers, I got everything to work A-OK except for mounting the motor side. Where did you end up mounting it? (or maybe you returned it?)

Best regards,
Jon


IMG_2931e.png
 
Hello @bcarp! I did the 4+ hour install and I have a sore back also. This should be added to the instruction sheet!

I am installing the device in a mid-2023 Model Y LR. I think I have the Satanic V2 also. The motor side looks like the photo below.

After adding some washers, I got everything to work A-OK except for mounting the motor side. Where did you end up mounting it? (or maybe you returned it?)

Best regards,
Jon


View attachment 1027580

I have a sore back which is why I'm not doing this yet.
 
After adding some washers, I got everything to work A-OK except for mounting the motor side. Where did you end up mounting it? (or maybe you returned it?)
Hmm, I can’t remember exactly what my motor looked like to compare it to yours. I didn’t need washers though…

I haven’t yet returned it, it I’m very nervous about anyone else using my frunk, for the sake of their fingers. I have put some sticky warning notes around to keep fingers clear of the area!

My mounting position is shown in the attached photos. The photo is taken facing towards the front of the vehicle and the motor is on the diagonal bar held on by white zip ties. I can’t remember if this particular orientation is what I had when it didn’t work, or the final orientation. I ended up having to spin the unit to face the other direction after it didn’t work, but it was still mounted on the same bar.

IMG_2401.jpeg
 
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