Lug nuts are supposed clamp the wheel to the hub and are not supposed to take much of a side load. As is, when bolted down, your wheel is sitting clamped to a thin 3 mm-wide step in the spindle instead of a much-much larger contact area. On a big enough bump, friction in that small area won't be enough and you'll put lateral load on lug bolts, which may snap. I'd be extremely cautious in case you must drive this thing on these wheels again.
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Mounted wrong size wheels - they’re now permanently stuck to the car. Disaster [resolved]
- Thread starter martyb126
- Start date
Try heating the wheel simultaneously with the gear puller on at the same time. Make sure you have some lugs in partially in so it doesn't spring away too much. Keep in mind that the aluminum wheels will dissipate heat much faster than you think so it could take a long time to heat the wheel up enough to really start the inner bore to expand. You'll likely need a pretty big torch to do this effectively.
At the same time, bang on the inside of the rim with a big dead-blow mallet or sledge. The vibrations will help with the release of the metal.
At the same time, bang on the inside of the rim with a big dead-blow mallet or sledge. The vibrations will help with the release of the metal.
Know that we're all rooting for you! And also see if there's any body shop, or classic car restoration hobbyist who'd have a frame puller, there must be a way to pull the wheel off with solid anchoring if nothing else works.
This method will bring the axle with. Careful with this.
I highly doubt someone was able to deform the wheel or the brake rotor enough to completely eliminate the step on the P brakes/hub.
When the wheel does come off, can you show some pics of the coating in the hub bore of the wheel and the brake mounting face?
I say this, having dealt with this after having one wheel refinished. The company that made the wheel did not coat the hub area and mating surface. The refinishing company was sloppy and didn’t use any kapton tape, resulting in a few hours of a 20lb sledge smashing the wheel off the car.
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I know it's not the same thing, but I had a wheel seized pretty good on my van just due to weather/oxidation... I lifted the van about an inch, laid a 4x4 the long way against the wheel and went to town on it with a 20lb sledgehammer.
Made sure to slather a bunch of anti seizing compound before putting it back on.
Made sure to slather a bunch of anti seizing compound before putting it back on.
Eek quite the before and after photos. I think there is a chance the aluminum wheels deformed and that’s the reason why I can’t get them off. I’ll definitely post photos if I can get one wheel off, but still nothing at this point.
Had this problems with steel wheels on a Ford. Loosened the lug nuts so that they are barely touching the wheel. Slow drive around the block, slight wiggle back and forth. All 4 wheels broke free from the rotors.
I would get an angle grinder out and cut the spokes off then carefully cut a slot down the centre which would allow it to open up.
Failing that take off suspension arms and get it done off the car. Pulling about when it’s on jacks or stands will result in damage to your health.
Failing that take off suspension arms and get it done off the car. Pulling about when it’s on jacks or stands will result in damage to your health.
But you’ve neglected Murphys Law. As soon as you stop trying to take the wheels off, they will fall off on their own. And probably roll down the driveway, bounce through a window and smash up some irreplaceable object d’art…
DO NOT USE A GRINDING WHEEL OF ANY KIND ON ALUMINUM. I REPEAT. DO NOT USE A GRINDING WHEEL ON ALUMINUM.
Aluminum will micro-melt onto the wheel and clog it. Continued use will heat it up. Loss of effectiveness will tend to lead to applying more pressure, leading to more heat. As this cycle continues, the wheel may explode from overheating.
If you want to cut it, use a saw blade or a cutting wheel made for aluminum and run it at a slower speed as high speeds can also melt the Aluminum clogging the teeth. A handheld bandsaw would probably be best, but that would be hard to apply to a wheel. A sabersaw or big saw at lower speeds with the right blade may work. Most don't have very good speed control though.
If you are trying to use an angle grinding tool with a cutting wheel (I wouldn't) hold the tool with 2 hands. I know 2 people who nearly cut off their thumbs with an angle grinder (They know each other and the second person didn't learn from there other). Definitely do not put your other hand on the part you are cutting.
Aluminum will micro-melt onto the wheel and clog it. Continued use will heat it up. Loss of effectiveness will tend to lead to applying more pressure, leading to more heat. As this cycle continues, the wheel may explode from overheating.
If you want to cut it, use a saw blade or a cutting wheel made for aluminum and run it at a slower speed as high speeds can also melt the Aluminum clogging the teeth. A handheld bandsaw would probably be best, but that would be hard to apply to a wheel. A sabersaw or big saw at lower speeds with the right blade may work. Most don't have very good speed control though.
If you are trying to use an angle grinding tool with a cutting wheel (I wouldn't) hold the tool with 2 hands. I know 2 people who nearly cut off their thumbs with an angle grinder (They know each other and the second person didn't learn from there other). Definitely do not put your other hand on the part you are cutting.
My two cents. If initial heating of the wheel got you a little movement initially. Unless you're heating the wheel quickly enough and in the right spot to expand while not also heating up the hub, you may get somewhere. But once the heat starts to transfer the hub, you lose some of the thermal expansion benefits. If there were a way to quickly heat the wheel right at the bore location while keeping the hub cool/cold and use your best method to pull, you might get somewhere. I used to work in robotics where parts had to fit together with VERY tight tolerances and would occasionally get stuck. We literally used to put parts in the break room freezer over night just to separate them. So cold hub and hot wheel. Or cold/cold. Liquid N2 could also be an option?
Yup I tried more heat today and got no more movement. Did it simultaneously with the gear puller with a ton of force that bent the steel plates I was using for grip on the claws and still only have ~2mm of wiggle.
I’ve been using a handheld propane torch and it’s impossible to apply the heat only to the wheel and not the hub. Cold is an interesting idea, but definitely more difficult to get the materials.
Occhis
Member
Man, this is some tough love. It'll probably be a legendary thread...
One more Q: when the wheel wiggles, does is do it around the same fixed axis or can it be wiggled around different axes?
I have two sets of these wheels and the metal is pretty soft (and the lug holes are very tight around 14mm studs). If it deformed somehow at the hub mounting surface, like you say you think it did, then it's probably wedged on the wheel studs. I wondering if some thin string saw can get to those studs through the 2-3 mm opening and cut them off.
It's probably possible, but the width is like 2mm tops, 4 with a wiggle. If a BFH did not do it, the pry bar that thin will just snap. It's worth a try if OP has a supply of cheap pry bars. Try to get a 2-3 on opposite sides.
One more Q: when the wheel wiggles, does is do it around the same fixed axis or can it be wiggled around different axes?
I have two sets of these wheels and the metal is pretty soft (and the lug holes are very tight around 14mm studs). If it deformed somehow at the hub mounting surface, like you say you think it did, then it's probably wedged on the wheel studs. I wondering if some thin string saw can get to those studs through the 2-3 mm opening and cut them off.
Occhis
Member
One other idea. Much harder with wheel attached, but may be possible. Go through the hub removal process. Remove center half shaft nut. Turn wheel so you can access back side of the rotor/hub assembly and remove caliper bracket bolts and 4 bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle. You’ll have to remove the brake line to free everything from the car to work on it or take to a shop.
Occhis
Member
I was thinking if he could get an old fashioned j-shaped crowbar in there and hammer the “j” part with a hammer it could work. Go around the wheel in 3 or 4 different places gradually working it.
