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Mounted wrong size wheels - they’re now permanently stuck to the car. Disaster [resolved]
- Thread starter martyb126
- Start date
What good would that do? They aren't holding the wheel on.
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Ya that’s my thought about the pry bar. I could maybe squeeze one in there, but the amount of force I’ve applied with BFH and the gear puller is almost certainly more than the small pry bar. I also don’t want to damage the hat.
It can wiggle on all axes. I hadn’t thought about the studs being deformed. It’s certainly possible, but I’ve threaded the lugs and off numerous times and haven’t faced any resistance, so my gut says the studs are in tact. Cutting them off would be great, but I don’t know that I’d have enough room to maneuver with my hands inside the wheel to get through all of them. I haven’t spent much time on the other 3 wheels, but I think their wiggle room is even less than te ~2mm I have on the one wheel I’ve been working on.
Gauss Guzzler
Safety Score = 42
Drive it around in slow circles with the lugs loose. Turns should be very effective, acceleration and braking should not.
Operator64
Member
Suggestion…..this will be long trying to explain the process……..
get a hydraulic bottle jack make sure the top screws out for adjustment, make sure the adjustable part will fit INSIDE the wheel center cap.
Get a strong ratchet strap or chain depending on care for the wheel wrap the strap / chain around the spokes crossing the center of the wheel where the bottle jack will be placed to push against the hub to push off the wheel.
This can also be achieved with a port-a-power if you can get inside the center cap of the wheel
So you will be using the jack as a press against the chains / straps to push off the hub face to remove the wheel. Bottle jacks are designed to work vertically so having all slack out of the apparatus when starting helps it will work horizontally on a shorter stroke.
Once you have pressure on the assembly you can use a hammer to tap on whatever you like to help with removal
I’m not worth a crap at explaining things but hopefully this will help
I’ve used this very large seized wheels and it works when nothing else does
Where there’s a wheel there’s a way
get a hydraulic bottle jack make sure the top screws out for adjustment, make sure the adjustable part will fit INSIDE the wheel center cap.
Get a strong ratchet strap or chain depending on care for the wheel wrap the strap / chain around the spokes crossing the center of the wheel where the bottle jack will be placed to push against the hub to push off the wheel.
This can also be achieved with a port-a-power if you can get inside the center cap of the wheel
So you will be using the jack as a press against the chains / straps to push off the hub face to remove the wheel. Bottle jacks are designed to work vertically so having all slack out of the apparatus when starting helps it will work horizontally on a shorter stroke.
Once you have pressure on the assembly you can use a hammer to tap on whatever you like to help with removal
I’m not worth a crap at explaining things but hopefully this will help
I’ve used this very large seized wheels and it works when nothing else does
Where there’s a wheel there’s a way
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stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
For cutting aluminum with my table saw, I use the following lube (it's a huge tube that you cut into directly, then you can apply the exposed side to the saw blade just pushing it against the running saw).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LG8Q22/
Without ample lubrication aluminum can easily clog the blades. It's a soft metal but unfortunately very easy to clog blades.
stopcrazypp
Well-Known Member
I would say studs being deformed can be a very real possibility. Were you able to determine where the wheel is actually stuck on? I'm just thinking through the issue. The issue is the wheels you have did not account for the lip on the performance hubs. That lip should make it so the wheels would not be fully flush with the face of the hub. If that is the case, the load is then put on the studs (instead of via friction with the face of the hub). I can see that deforming the studs.
The lip being off a bit more than 6mm seems to make it unlikely that somehow the wheels were able to slip onto the lip and be stuck that way. I'm not sure about the physics of it though (how much aluminum can deform). Perhaps given the hub is tapered, it did go in part way, but I still don't really see how it would be able to go onto the lip. That said, this is assuming that aftermarket wheel's hub is the same diameter the whole way and it doesn't have a section that is tapered also.
That's not exactly true. They aren't *not* holding the wheel on.
I've dealt with a lot of stuck wheels and never encountered one that I couldn't remove by hitting the inside of the wheel with a big sledgehammer and rotating the wheel in-between hits to "walk" it off the hub. You could try using ratchet straps and have them pull on the wheel itself while you go through that smashing process so that it doesn't just pivot in place.
MasterC17
Active Member
This won't be a quick fix, but I think the logical solution without causing more damage is to remove the hubs with the car on a lift.
Unfortunately, the rotor and caliper will come too, but at least this gives you an opportunity to disassemble everything off the car and minimize damage.
1) Remove the Center Cap from the wheel
2) Remove the Axle Nut (32mm)
3) Push the axle in/back (air hammer)
4) Disconnect the flexible brake line from the caliper or the body side
5) Remove the three 18mm bolts that hold the hub on
6) Pull wheel/tire/rotor/caliper/hub assembly off car
Unfortunately, the rotor and caliper will come too, but at least this gives you an opportunity to disassemble everything off the car and minimize damage.
1) Remove the Center Cap from the wheel
2) Remove the Axle Nut (32mm)
3) Push the axle in/back (air hammer)
4) Disconnect the flexible brake line from the caliper or the body side
5) Remove the three 18mm bolts that hold the hub on
6) Pull wheel/tire/rotor/caliper/hub assembly off car
I would agree, but at this point, I've had 3 different professional shops + myself + a lot of hours and everyone has said the exact same thing of "huh never seen this before. I've always been able to hammer the wheel off." I'm at a loss, but I'm obviously going to keep trying!
This may be my next request if I can find a shop willing to do it. Then the question is getting the rotor and caliper disconnected to get the new wheels on the car.
Do you have a friend with a lift? Or maybe rent a garage not too far with one (and tools) for a week or two?
I may be my paranoid self, but once your car is in a shop with brakes/spindles/wheels/etc disconnected, you are at their mercy to do whatever they say the car needs at whatever prices.
I've been burned like this before...
And with a lift you may find that you can BHF it out after all. From your picture it appears you're working with the car on jackstands, which is not ideal for BFHing.
I've been thinking about this one and this is a really odd problem. It almost seems like a ridge was formed between the hub centers that is locking it in but I can't think of a mechanism for such a thing to occur.
Ultimately, I think removing the suspension as an assembly as suggested will be required for access. However, if you have the puller, I might suggest seeing if you can flip the jaws to hook onto the inside of the hub center of the wheel. Not sure if there will be enough room, but this will likely provide the most rigid points to apply force. The hydraulic puller linked on the first page may be too big. A screw type puller may fit better but may also be hard to apply force.
Another thought would be to use a slide hammer if it has an attachment that can hook onto the inside of the hub center of the wheel. It may not provide enough force though.
Ultimately, I think removing the suspension as an assembly as suggested will be required for access. However, if you have the puller, I might suggest seeing if you can flip the jaws to hook onto the inside of the hub center of the wheel. Not sure if there will be enough room, but this will likely provide the most rigid points to apply force. The hydraulic puller linked on the first page may be too big. A screw type puller may fit better but may also be hard to apply force.
Another thought would be to use a slide hammer if it has an attachment that can hook onto the inside of the hub center of the wheel. It may not provide enough force though.
Yeah, a ridge on the rim from the 70mm-wide hub step pressing pretty hard on it. And likely a corresponding groove in the spindle too.
In the spindle? I think you might be conflating parts.
The forces needed to deform that (non P fitment) wheel over a P’s ridge, would have to be insane when you think this wheel was designed to drive around on a 4k lb+ vehicle without fracturing / deforming to the stresses of this country’s roads.
It’ll be interesting to see what everything looks like when they’re finally “divorced”
The protruding part of the spindle does not carry any load with a properly mounted rim centered by lugs. Neither does the Performance step lip.
The vehicle load is carried by the friction force between the wheel mounting surface and the flat portion of the spindle around the studs.
