The part that's 71ish mm in diameter, transitioning to 64.1mm diameter.What is a spindle pipe?
Words (sort of) matter.
Try going back a couple of pages. He's bent one like that already.
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The part that's 71ish mm in diameter, transitioning to 64.1mm diameter.What is a spindle pipe?
Words (sort of) matter.
Try going back a couple of pages. He's bent one like that already.
Agreed. I'm far from an engineer, but the only thing I could imagine is that the lip on the P hub is significantly stronger than the aluminum wheel, so wheel I applied 129 ft/lb of torque on the lugs, since the wheels didn't have the small alteration to the bore to account for the lip, it deformed the aluminum and created some for of friction seal. What I really don't understand is I have 2mm of wiggle which, I believe should clear that small lip which looks to be about ~1mm. It also appears that the wheels have been sitting flush to the hub hat, so this kind of supports the theory that the lip deformed the wheels. Someone else pointed out it is possible that the wheels weren't sitting fully flush so there was significant force on the studs/bolts instead of the friction holding the weight of the car. If the studs are bent/damaged maybe they are anything contributing factor, but again, I'm still able to tighten all the lugs on the studs and get the wheel flush to the hub hat, so this kind of disproves the damaged stud theory.It almost seems like a ridge was formed between the hub centers that is locking it in but I can't think of a mechanism for such a thing to occur.
Worth a shot, but I don't think I'll be able to fit all 3 claw arms into that hub centerif you have the puller, I might suggest seeing if you can flip the jaws to hook onto the inside of the hub center of the wheel. Not sure if there will be enough room, but this will likely provide the most rigid points to apply force.
Yup - have not tried this yet, but it has been recommended a couple of times. Definitely in the running for my next attempt.Not sure if this has been mentioned: Both sides of an end off the ground at the same time, for example both fronts or both rears. A bottle jack on its side, the bottom against the inside edge of one wheel, a 2x4 to span the distance over to the other inside edge and jack the wheels apart.
Did you try driving in circles? I can almost guarantee that the front outside wheel would come loose within a few circles.
Otherwise, the earlier suggestions to visit a body shop are good. They can easily rig up some sort of puller that will pull as hard as needed. They'd probably use something like this with some scrap metal behind the wheel to hook onto:
A puller is the safest method and doesn't risk damage to anything other than the wheel. Hammers and crowbars however are pretty hard on the bearings, brakes, steering rack, and other suspension components.
Lol. I am an engineer and this baffles me. Something would have to mushroom in our out for this to occur, but I don't see a mechanism for it especially with such different material hardness.Agreed. I'm far from an engineer, but the only thing I could imagine is that the lip on the P hub is significantly stronger than the aluminum wheel, so wheel I applied 129 ft/lb of torque on the lugs, since the wheels didn't have the small alteration to the bore to account for the lip, it deformed the aluminum and created some for of friction seal. What I really don't understand is I have 2mm of wiggle which, I believe should clear that small lip which looks to be about ~1mm. It also appears that the wheels have been sitting flush to the hub hat, so this kind of supports the theory that the lip deformed the wheels. Someone else pointed out it is possible that the wheels weren't sitting fully flush so there was significant force on the studs/bolts instead of the friction holding the weight of the car. If the studs are bent/damaged maybe they are anything contributing factor, but again, I'm still able to tighten all the lugs on the studs and get the wheel flush to the hub hat, so this kind of disproves the damaged stud theory.
Worth a shot, but I don't think I'll be able to fit all 3 claw arms into that hub center
Having different part numbers when one could do both is not very Tesla of them, is it?This is probably the craziest thing I've seen happen, but didn't think would ever be possible. That little MP3 lip is a bastard already, but for that 6mm difference to cause 4 improperly bored wheels to get stuck just shows how careful we need to be with these things. I didn't think anyone could tighten wheels down that are too small to cover that lip as well, but here we are.
Why does this wheel manufacturer bother boring two different wheels instead of just making them universally compatible with a stepped lip in the first place? That's just stupid to have to deal with different manufacturing processes and inventory for one car. Could've just stocked the same wheel for all versions of the Model 3 and Y instead of dealing with the Performance being a different SKU.
This is probably the craziest thing I've seen happen, but didn't think would ever be possible. That little MP3 lip is a bastard already, but for that 6mm difference to cause 4 improperly bored wheels to get stuck just shows how careful we need to be with these things. I didn't think anyone could tighten wheels down that are too small to cover that lip as well, but here we are.
Why does this wheel manufacturer bother boring two different wheels instead of just making them universally compatible with a stepped lip in the first place? That's just stupid to have to deal with different manufacturing processes and inventory for one car. Could've just stocked the same wheel for all versions of the Model 3 and Y instead of dealing with the Performance being a different SKU.
I guess we are all kind of fascinated by now… (sorry for your pain).
Are you saying there is a lip where the red arrow is partially down the hub which has fouled on the inside of the wheel? (PS this is just a generic Model 3 wheel hub photo).
I would still advocate trying to take the entire wheel assembly off if at all possible. When the wheel & hub is off the car any good machine shop will have presses and pullers which would separate them without pulling a car onto your head/foot.
Failing that my favourite (aside from my saw the wheel to bits then saw a slot where the red arrow is (but on the wheel) and prise the wheel apart slightly) is the bottle jack with a girder between each wheel. However that would load only the bottom of the wheel which may then just bend something instead of knocking it off.
As for driving around like a lunatic, I think a wheel would fall off then you would crash, and surely when it loosens if the advice is then to tighten the bolts you will simply end up back where you started, n’est pas?
Finally I think you have not yet found a crazy enough body shop yet, keep driving around and someone will take it as a personal challenge and sort it for you. Just don’t watch.
View attachment 874976
...When the wheel is lifting off at an angle, it catches. Many tight fitting circular fits behave this way (brake caliper pistons are a common example). Lifting it straight off may help but will still likely require some force on this case. Easier said than done of course.
I agree with what you’ve said. However, are we to assume the material hardness of the wheel vs hub deformed the wheel via /only/ 129ftlbs? That wheel is sitting pretty darn flush on that hub, many others that've had this problem were unable to get the wheel sitting flush.OP's wheels are made w/o that step, and thus have been squeezed onto the exposed (approximately) 70mm hub lip.
See this wiki. The rotor hat on the stock M3P rotors is thinner. As a result, about 3mm of hub lip are exposed and performance compatible wheels have the hub bore machined to accept the lip.
OP's wheels are made w/o that step, and thus have been squeezed onto the exposed (approximately) 70mm hub lip.
I’d bet a cup of your finest water that the wheel bore is slightly undersized or a (powder/paint) coating applied to the wheel is causing it to hang up.OR there is some other component that we are all missing that is preventing movement.
I have no other reference as to how hard wheels "should" be, but someone has mentioned that the fast wheels are quite soft. I can definitely support this as I have definitely dented the wheel in a bunch of different fun ways at this point and it doesn't seem to hold up very well against steel (e.g. pry bar, gear puller)I agree with what you’ve said. However, are we to assume the material hardness of the wheel vs hub deformed the wheel via /only/ 129ftlbs? That wheel is sitting pretty darn flush on that hub, many others that've had this problem were unable to get the wheel sitting flush.
It may work, but the risk of damage or injury would not be worth it to me.This one works so forget the rest..you just end up ruining something at you car. I have had 2 customers from other workshops with same problem. One was with wrong size center bore as yours. Other was normal steel wheel. None of other mechanics could get the wheels unstuck with normal methods.
Method. Dont be afraid - its safe
Loosen all 20 wheelsnuts 3-4 turns. Go drive the car (40-60 mph) as you stole it with as many hard turns and aggressive driving. I mean really really thrash it or it wont work. Turn off radio and when your hear a distintive knack-sound - Find the wheel or wheels who has come loose and tighten wheelnuts some and drive again until all 4 are loose. It can take 8-10 km off driving and braking - as this has been done at ICE cars so warm brakes have helped a lot i guess. But my guarantee it´ll work. Regards Nick