MPP Comfort Coilover reviews?

[rpan25]

I've never seen that before so I would reach out to MPP and get their take on it. I wonder if your front lower control arm bushing was properly installed.

That is weird, I don't think I've seen that before from pics. You might reach out to MPP to see what they say.

Edit: Found two posts w/pics where this is somewhat apparent, but not all cars look this way. The wheel should move slightly backwards under compression since caster tilts the struts backwards. Yours seems more extreme than both examples I found? Weird.

MPP Comfort Coilover reviews?

Is rear arm (camber and toe) needed? What's the main purpose for them? About to install the mpp comfort coilover but didn't have rear arm. From factory, you have very limited range of adjustment for rear toe and zero for camber. The arms allows you to adjust and re-align the car properly...

teslamotorsclub.com

MPP Comfort Coilover reviews?

Appears to be approx 4.5”. Measurement taken at the center door seam. Measurement point in top pick is approx. 4.25” below bottom of door. THANK YOU!! So you're lowered approximately by an inch, right? And that results in roughly a one-finger gap.

teslamotorsclub.com

Yeah, I have engaged @MountainPass and we are looking into this.

 

[tm1v2]

Legendary Tesla build consistency?

I feel like I've come across stories from the Tesla aftermarket where a new part is test on a handful of cars - completely typical for these small companies, testing on large numbers of cars is not feasible for them - and it all seems good. Then like 100 orders in or so, the part totally doesn't fit right in one customer's Tesla. No accident history, no incompatible mods, nothing different on the spec sheet for that car...it's just how the car came out of Fremont.

Hopefully I'm remembering this right and not just making up a false rumor.

 

[Ren.OG]

doesn't fit right in one customer's Tesla

Nah you're correct, MPP even has a disclaimer on their Front Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearing Install Instructions

" - We expect that all Model 3’s are not built equal, and it is possible the dowel pins we supply are too tight of a fit to insert into the subframe. This needs to be checked because if a dowel gets stuck inside the chassis it is very difficult to remove."

 

[Occhis]

Nah you're correct, MPP even has a disclaimer on their Front Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearing Install Instructions

" - We expect that all Model 3’s are not built equal, and it is possible the dowel pins we supply are too tight of a fit to insert into the subframe. This needs to be checked because if a dowel gets stuck inside the chassis it is very difficult to remove."

I don’t think this applies to the OP‘s issue. I don’t read it as a disclaimer, just an observation on possible differences of one car to the next. The dowel pins do not change the alignment of the LCA bearings, as the threads in the frame that the LBA bolts fit into do not move whether the dowels are used or not. The dowels can be left out, as the installation instructions describe. The installation instruction can be accessed on their product page for the LCA bearings. MPP Model 3 Front Lower Control Arm Spherical Bearing Installation Instructions - Mountain Pass Performance
If the bearing is not installed into the arm to the correct depth, however, this certainly could change the position of the wheel/hub assembly.

 

[Ren.OG]

I don’t think this applies to the OP‘s issue

just pointing out that there are known differences between model 3's out of the factory.

 

[Freshness]

Received my MPP Non Adjustables a few days ago. I wanted to go a step further to protect against Western Pennsylvania rust given these do not have the stainless bodies. I taped off all labeled stickers, shock pistons and dustboots, etc and hit them with some black engine enamel. I think they came out really nice, and should further prevent rust over the factory coating.

did you already install these?? I’m fairly certain painting threads is a big no no

 

[nick0188]

did you already install these?? I’m fairly certain painting threads is a big no no

Putting a load of paint or thick undercoating maybe, this had zero effect. Collars still spin easily by hand. Yes, they are already installed. What did you think would be the "big no no" here?

 

[nick0188]

I guess I'll update with my review while I'm here.
I switched from Eibach Springs to MPP Non Adjustable Comfort coilovers. I won't say I'm completely disappointed, but I will say I am slightly underwhelmed. I feel almost no difference in ride quality. Larger bumps are still ROUGH. No difference in noise level (wasn't expecting that). Car still feels about as planted as it was before, etc. I mainly did this to better the ride quality, and from what I can tell there is 0 difference.

I have the car about 1/4" lower than the recommended settings to get to the same height as it was on the Eibach springs. It's in no way slammed.

I guess I am glad to be off the bump stops and avoiding the potential of a leaking stock shock do to being on lowering springs. The quality of the coilovers also seem to be top notch, so also happy about that.

 

[dfwatt]

I guess I'll update with my review while I'm here.
I switched from Eibach Springs to MPP Non Adjustable Comfort coilovers. I won't say I'm completely disappointed, but I will say I am slightly underwhelmed. I feel almost no difference in ride quality. Larger bumps are still ROUGH. No difference in noise level (wasn't expecting that). Car still feels about as planted as it was before, etc. I mainly did this to better the ride quality, and from what I can tell there is 0 difference.

I have the car about 1/4" lower than the recommended settings to get to the same height as it was on the Eibach springs. It's in no way slammed.

I guess I am glad to be off the bump stops and avoiding the potential of a leaking stock shock do to being on lowering springs. The quality of the coilovers also seem to be top notch, so also happy about that.

Folks trying to tune for Ride Control frequently are disappointed when they think that coilovers are going to be the total solution even with better shocks. You need to drop unsprung weight, as much as possible and put as much sidewall as you can. I'm assuming you probably have 18 in Wheels but what tires do you have? Have you checked out Tire racks rating for ride in a tire class that you were interested in?

 

[Unclepaul]

Believe Elon prefers good solid handling cars. Imagine he has designed his cars to handle relatively well, but not floaty like typical standard American sedans.

 

[jackmott]

Reducing unsprung weight can definitely be a good thing but the Model 3 already has a very good ratio of sprung to unsprung weight thanks to the large amounts of sprung weight. I don't think most people would notice just changing to lighter wheels or anything. I do agree though that if you find the ride too harsh, the *first* step should be dropping down to a smaller diameter wheel size and running tire pressures on the low side of the factory specs (like 38).

Tire pressures alone can make a massive difference but I wouldn't want to run 38psi on 20" wheels on these cars.

 

[Freshness]

Putting a load of paint or thick undercoating maybe, this had zero effect. Collars still spin easily by hand. Yes, they are already installed. What did you think would be the "big no no" here?

I mean, it just seems obvious to me not to do that.

My buddy got his porsche centerlocks refinished and the bonehead shop powdercoated the threads. Needless to say the wheels never secured back on the car after that and there was a huge back and forth over the next steps..

 

[nick0188]

I mean, it just seems obvious to me not to do that.

My buddy got his porsche centerlocks refinished and the bonehead shop powdercoated the threads. Needless to say the wheels never secured back on the car after that and there was a huge back and forth over the next steps..

Threads on Porsche center locks are VERY different than the thick threads on these coilovers. Also powder coating is VERY different that two light coats of spray paint.

 

[nick0188]

Folks trying to tune for Ride Control frequently are disappointed when they think that coilovers are going to be the total solution even with better shocks. You need to drop unsprung weight, as much as possible and put as much sidewall as you can. I'm assuming you probably have 18 in Wheels but what tires do you have? Have you checked out Tire racks rating for ride in a tire class that you were interested in?

I have two sets of wheels/tires for the car. 19x9.5 with 265/35/19 Michelin AS3+ and 18x9.5 with 245/45/18 Blizzak LM001. The Blizzaks are on the car at the moment, but overall I'm pretty unhappy with those tires in general. I have a straight piped diesel truck with 35" mud tires and I swear these Blizzaks on the Tesla are louder.

I need to do some more highway driving to get a better feel of the comfort on the coilovers. Maybe I will tell a huge difference there, but as far as in city driving like I mentioned there is slim to no difference.

 

[dfwatt]

I have two sets of wheels/tires for the car. 19x9.5 with 265/35/19 Michelin AS3+ and 18x9.5 with 245/45/18 Blizzak LM001. The Blizzaks are on the car at the moment, but overall I'm pretty unhappy with those tires in general. I have a straight piped diesel truck with 35" mud tires and I swear these Blizzaks on the Tesla are louder.

I need to do some more highway driving to get a better feel of the comfort on the coilovers. Maybe I will tell a huge difference there, but as far as in city driving like I mentioned there is slim to no difference.

Weights on the wheels? I'm not terribly familiar with that brand of Blizzak but I know the Michelin All Season 3+ we own a set. Great all-around tire until its successor came out it was probably the best dry and summer performing tire that you could drive during the winter and have decent performance in snow but not a ride or noise Champion by any stretch

 

[MasterC17]

I guess I'll update with my review while I'm here.
I switched from Eibach Springs to MPP Non Adjustable Comfort coilovers. I won't say I'm completely disappointed, but I will say I am slightly underwhelmed. I feel almost no difference in ride quality. Larger bumps are still ROUGH. No difference in noise level (wasn't expecting that). Car still feels about as planted as it was before, etc. I mainly did this to better the ride quality, and from what I can tell there is 0 difference.

I have the car about 1/4" lower than the recommended settings to get to the same height as it was on the Eibach springs. It's in no way slammed.

I guess I am glad to be off the bump stops and avoiding the potential of a leaking stock shock do to being on lowering springs. The quality of the coilovers also seem to be top notch, so also happy about that.

Odd, that was not my experience at all (regarding comfort). What is the year and model of your 3? Who did you have do the installation? It's very important to torque the lower shock bolts at ride height.

 

[Timbo2]

Believe Elon prefers good solid handling cars. Imagine he has designed his cars to handle relatively well, but not floaty like typical standard American sedans.

If "Power Play: Tesla, Elon Musk, and the Bet of the Century," by Tim Higgins is to be believed:

On one such trip, an engineer recalled asking Musk his opinion on the sedan's suspension — should it be sporty, like a BMW, or cushy, like a Lexus?

"I'm going to sell a f--- load of cars, so whatever suspension you need so I can sell a f--- load of cars — that's the suspension I want," Musk replied, the engineer said.

'I've got to launch the f------ rocket!': Elon Musk's fits of rage against employees documented in new book about Tesla's history

 

[MountainPass]

Odd, that was not my experience at all (regarding comfort). What is the year and model of your 3? Who did you have do the installation? It's very important to torque the lower shock bolts at ride height.

As @MasterC17 said, if the lower shock bolts are torqued at droop they will be twisted at ride height and artificially increase the spring rate/wear out quickly.

 

[nick0188]

As @MasterC17 said, if the lower shock bolts are torqued at droop they will be twisted at ride height and artificially increase the spring rate/wear out quickly.

They were torqued at height. Like mentioned, not mad, just expected some ridiculous Cadillac like ride given the reviews.

Odd, that was not my experience at all (regarding comfort). What is the year and model of your 3? Who did you have do the installation? It's very important to torque the lower shock bolts at ride height.

I did the install. I do this a lot, and have probably installed upwards of 500 sets of coilovers/springs/etc. I torqued every single bolt to spec, and at height.

Weights on the wheels? I'm not terribly familiar with that brand of Blizzak but I know the Michelin All Season 3+ we own a set. Great all-around tire until its successor came out it was probably the best dry and summer performing tire that you could drive during the winter and have decent performance in snow but not a ride or noise Champion by any stretch

Both wheels are sub 20 or under 20 pounds. I went with all seasons as I didn’t expect to go buy snow tires and then a tire rack sale got me . You’re steering my before/after to a tire discussion though and that’s not the case.

 

[Dave EV]

I have the car about 1/4" lower than the recommended settings to get to the same height as it was on the Eibach springs. It's in no way slammed.

Have a pic or measurement of the ride height you're running?