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Yes. If you tighten that bolt with suspension at full droop, the bushing will be twisted at ride height and will likely degrade/tear quickly. The bushing preload will also make the car sit higher than with that bolt tightened at or near ride-height.Instructions mention need to jack up front knuckle to attach damper bolt.
Haven't seen this done in a couple of vids.
Will this be necessary?
If you are installing the lower control arm bearing, then this step isn't needed. Only applies to rubber bushings.Instructions mention need to jack up front knuckle to attach damper bolt.
Haven't seen this done in a couple of vids.
Will this be necessary?
This is referring to where the damper attaches to the lower control arm, not the control arm to the subframe. Nobody sells a replacement for this bushing, it is always rubber as it comes from the factory.If you are installing the lower control arm bearing, then this step isn't needed. Only applies to rubber bushings.
This is referring to where the damper attaches to the lower control arm, not the control arm to the subframe. Nobody sells a replacement for this bushing, it is always rubber as it comes from the factory.
Yes, I'd try to keep that bushing in good condition if you don't want to buy a new LCA!This is referring to where the damper attaches to the lower control arm, not the control arm to the subframe. Nobody sells a replacement for this bushing, it is always rubber as it comes from the factory.
Can you get a video of the noise? The only thing I can think of is damage from being pressed in. I have these bearings on both of my 3's and haven't noticed any increased NVH. Any pics of the bearings installed?Has anyone had NVH from the LCA bearing?
Im getting substantial road noice. I haven't seen where this was an issue and don't consider myself as highly sensitive to this. It's only reasonable on smooth newly paved road. Its bad enough I'm considering pressing the OEM bushings back in. I thought i would start with removing the sleeves to see if that helped. I did put the FUCA on at the same time i added the bearings, and had it aligned. I cant imagine it would be the FUCA.
I insulated over the front wheel well and put an insulated blankets in the front tub just to see if it would help, but it seems like its reverberating through the subframe. Any thoughts?
MPP sport coil overs
camber arms
inserts
Stock 19 DWS 06 245/40/19, no significant road noise pryer
Thx
We have the front lower control arm bushing on both cars. No discernible increase in noise or vibration. The other front control arm bushing on the other hand the one that allows you to get some variable camber does increase road noise/ vibration.Has anyone had NVH from the LCA bearing?
Im getting substantial road noice. I haven't seen where this was an issue and don't consider myself as highly sensitive to this. It's only reasonable on smooth newly paved road. Its bad enough I'm considering pressing the OEM bushings back in. I thought i would start with removing the sleeves to see if that helped. I did put the FUCA on at the same time i added the bearings, and had it aligned. I cant imagine it would be the FUCA.
I insulated over the front wheel well and put an insulated blankets in the front tub just to see if it would help, but it seems like its reverberating through the subframe. Any thoughts?
MPP sport coil overs
camber arms
inserts
Stock 19 DWS 06 245/40/19, no significant road noise pryer
Thx
I would be inclined to make sure the top damper nuts are torqued properly (this is a super common reason for noise) and also just verify that your swaybar bushings and end links are in good shape. My own end links were clunking but they didn't have any play in them when I checked. Swapped them out - $28 later my car was nice and quiet again!I did press one side in upside down, continued pressing it out the same way and repressed. The aluminum bearing casing was marred a bit from pressing. I don't have a pressure gage on the northern tool press, but did feel the pressure needed felt approx the same. it was tricky getting the bolt aligned up with the sleeves initially if the angle isn't just right, so once torqued, i backed every thing completely out and reattached to make sure nothing was bound up.
I can get pics and sound, but the wide blue side of the bearings are flush to the front side of the LCA. it sounds like a giant empty coke bottle is mounted to the front of the car and air is blowing across the top. When i took it for a test drive a mile down the road I thought i forgot to reattach the under tray, I stopped to look under the car, expecting to see part of it hanging off.
I did press one side in upside down, continued pressing it out the same way and repressed. The aluminum bearing casing was marred a bit from pressing. I don't have a pressure gage on the northern tool press, but did feel the pressure needed felt approx the same. it was tricky getting the bolt aligned up with the sleeves initially if the angle isn't just right, so once torqued, i backed every thing completely out and reattached to make sure nothing was bound up.
I can get pics and sound, but the wide blue side of the bearings are flush to the front side of the LCA. it sounds like a giant empty coke bottle is mounted to the front of the car and air is blowing across the top. When i took it for a test drive a mile down the road I thought i forgot to reattach the under tray, I stopped to look under the car, expecting to see part of it hanging off.
That MPP gear is absolute art to look atWhat other work did you do at the same time? I always double-check to make sure everything is torqued and paint-pen them. It's easy to forget to torque one nut or bolt and it can make horrific sounds.
View attachment 873545
It sounds like @gigg 's noise is not knocking/rattling, like the topmount nuts or swaybay bushings would make, but a constant howl-ish type road/tire noise?I would be inclined to make sure the top damper nuts are torqued properly (this is a super common reason for noise) and also just verify that your swaybar bushings and end links are in good shape. My own end links were clunking but they didn't have any play in them when I checked. Swapped them out - $28 later my car was nice and quiet again!