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MPP compression rod and control arm bearings.

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For Sale. MPP LCA Bearings and press tool $350 shipped

I have MPP coilovers and FUCA and camber arms
There is only one alignment shop in my area that will do an alignment on a Tesla, and they wont adjust aftermarket parts. I thought i could adjust the camber myself . After 2 $120.00 alignments I still dont know if its close enough.
They will give me a printout for $25.00. My thought is going forward to just pay for a couple print outs and adjust it myself between printouts.
Is that feasible?
Do i need MPP rear toe arms for adjustment, i know OEM is an eccentric style?

currently camber LF -1.4 RF -1.0
toe .09 .09
LR -1.2 RR -1.0
toe .18 .20


Aiming for camber 1.5 front 1.0 rear. Toe

What would be an acceptable variance?
That's a bit of a red flag for an incompetent shop. The Tesla parts from MPP make it actually a lot easier to do an alignment. The other problem is that you're still going to have your aftermarket upper control arms which is the only way to adjust front camber. The only adjustable things on a stock Tesla suspension model 3 are toe and if you move the front mounting of the top hat and front assembly you can get some modest 1/3 of a degree or so change. Yes the eccentric cam mechanism is the only way on a stock Tesla to adjust rear toe but it's a beast to get or set subtle toe changes with that thing. Plus over time it tends to rust and it becomes even harder to work with. These issues for sure are part of why MPP has sold a gazillion rear toe arms.

I'd discuss all this with them and make it clear that it's way easier to adjust particularly toe at the rear with the aftermarket arms. If they dig in their heels and refuse to listen to reason, I might think about trying to find another shop. Perhaps Mountain Pass has a list of local installers that might also do alignment? Alternatively, you can adjust toe in pretty easily yourself and toe problems much more than camber problems are why people chew up tires. I was going to post a review of some toe plates with some very easy ways of doing front and rear toe in.
 
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Installed every single MPP suspension component minus Compression Rod and FLCA, the ride was great, NVH increase, while noticeable, very smooth, but with a bit sharper handling.

Then found the time to install the solid Compression Rod and FLCA. Huge difference, night and day, the car is on rails, NVH significantly up, enough that I need to soften up the damper settings, still playing with damper settings.

@MountainPass do you have any new recommendations on the caster settings? guidance for street car with occasional spirited canyon runs?
 
@MountainPass
Current Mileage: 53k
Installed MPP Coilovers at 35k

Installed Front Lower Control Arm Bearings on 1/7. Both front tires were bald inside within 3k miles of driving. My Toe alignment was off.

I installed MPP Rear Camber Arms on 2/27 and did my first alignment at Pep Boys (maybe they didn't know how to adjust the camber arms).
Before:
Front Toe L: -0.45 / R: -0.55
Rear Camber L: -1.6 / R: -2.1
After:
Front Toe: L: 0 / R: 0
Rear Camber L: -1.5 / R: -1.2

Today, my MPP installer called me offering me a free alignment, which seems like I was the only one who encountered this problem. After the new 2nd alignment (1st alignment was 3 weeks ago), it turns out my BEFORE settings were different and off.
Before:
Front Toe L: -0.24 / R: -0.08
Rear Camber L: -2.0 / R: -1.0
After:
Front Toe: L: -0.05 / R: -0.05
Rear Camber L: -1.0 / R: -1.0

I've never experienced an alignment issue going through my normal roads despite all the recent pot holes from the rain here on SoCal. I was assuming my alignment issues came from the FLCAB install but even after adding Rear Camber arms and getting an alignment with new tires (with 255/45/20 more sidewall) and now having alignment issues 3 weeks later?
Is it possible the FLCAB is not on properly?
Could an uneven ride height (front lower than back) possibly cause my toe and rear camber to be misaligned?
Maybe Pep Boys didn't screw the rear camber adjustment back on properly? I just hope I don't burn through my new set of tires before figuring out what the problem is. Any help would be appreciated.
 
@MountainPass
Current Mileage: 53k
Installed MPP Coilovers at 35k

Installed Front Lower Control Arm Bearings on 1/7. Both front tires were bald inside within 3k miles of driving. My Toe alignment was off.

I installed MPP Rear Camber Arms on 2/27 and did my first alignment at Pep Boys (maybe they didn't know how to adjust the camber arms).
Before:
Front Toe L: -0.45 / R: -0.55
Rear Camber L: -1.6 / R: -2.1
After:
Front Toe: L: 0 / R: 0
Rear Camber L: -1.5 / R: -1.2

Today, my MPP installer called me offering me a free alignment, which seems like I was the only one who encountered this problem. After the new 2nd alignment (1st alignment was 3 weeks ago), it turns out my BEFORE settings were different and off.
Before:
Front Toe L: -0.24 / R: -0.08
Rear Camber L: -2.0 / R: -1.0
After:
Front Toe: L: -0.05 / R: -0.05
Rear Camber L: -1.0 / R: -1.0

I've never experienced an alignment issue going through my normal roads despite all the recent pot holes from the rain here on SoCal. I was assuming my alignment issues came from the FLCAB install but even after adding Rear Camber arms and getting an alignment with new tires (with 255/45/20 more sidewall) and now having alignment issues 3 weeks later?
Is it possible the FLCAB is not on properly?
Could an uneven ride height (front lower than back) possibly cause my toe and rear camber to be misaligned?
Maybe Pep Boys didn't screw the rear camber adjustment back on properly? I just hope I don't burn through my new set of tires before figuring out what the problem is. Any help would be appreciated.
Honestly, I question the accuracy of the first alignment since it doesn't at all match the before readings from the second one. It is very hard to mess up installing the FLCAB but anything is possible. If you want to email us photos of the installation we can have a look!
 
These days I never trust an alignment from these huge chains. Always verify at least the toe, since it's cheap and super-simple.
Personally, I bought myself a set of alignment hub stands and plan to use those extensively.
I don't want to derail the conversation, but what hub stands did you get? I've been setting toe myself and always a pain to jack up the car, adjust the tie rod, set down, summon forward back to even out the suspension, repeat.
 
These days I never trust an alignment from these huge chains. Always verify at least the toe, since it's cheap and super-simple.
Personally, I bought myself a set of alignment hub stands and plan to use those extensively.
It's also worth mentioning that if you don't know what you're doing with an electronic laser alignment machine, it's real easy to get it to say one thing when the measurements are completely different.

Given this is Pep Boys, I'd say it's likely user error with the alignment machine.
 
I don't want to derail the conversation, but what hub stands did you get? I've been setting toe myself and always a pain to jack up the car, adjust the tie rod, set down, summon forward back to even out the suspension, repeat.
Yes it is a pain but I'm not sure there is any way around that if you're using toe plates. They do work and they can be very accurate. And given that out of alignment toe settings are far and away the most common cause for accelerated tire wear they can save you a boatload of money. We've chewed through some expensive tires relying on poorly trained technicians at the big chains to align the car.
 
I don't want to derail the conversation, but what hub stands did you get? I've been setting toe myself and always a pain to jack up the car, adjust the tie rod, set down, summon forward back to even out the suspension, repeat.
Paco motorsports ones. They are technically rated only to 1000lbs per corner (which is borderline over/under for a M3P), but I've reached out to them and they said it's definitely safe to use.
 
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I don't want to derail the conversation, but what hub stands did you get? I've been setting toe myself and always a pain to jack up the car, adjust the tie rod, set down, summon forward back to even out the suspension, repeat.

You don't need stands though if all you are adjusting is front toe. It's trivial to reach under the front of the car with it on the ground (even lowered cars) and access the tie rods. With the steering wheel angle display in service mode, I don't even roll the car between adjustments since I'm measuring from the metal wheel.

The rear is a total pain though.
 
Careful with them old worn out compression rod bushings. Saw a small tear when inserting the compression rod inserts. By the time new ones arrived it was fully torn. Feels much better now!
PXL_20230730_154427910.jpg
 
MPP explicitly say in their product description that they don't know how these inserts would affect OEM bushing longevity.
I'm going to go with the fact that it was ripped before hand and not the 1,000 miles added while waiting for parts. Other side looked fine.

That being said, I know what mileage I put the new arms w/ the inserts back in at and will report if I see any issues.
 
Is it still the general consensus that for spirited daily driving the rod inserts are still the way to go? I want to improve initial turn in on my setup and think this is the ticket. Squishy turn in could very well be attributable to the PS4S’ softer sidewall or the Flex Z’s softer spring rate.

Thoughts from the group? Open to suggestions and ideas. I run the PS4S’ at 36 PSI currently.