That's only a 6% difference, I wouldn't worry about it much. You may want to re-start the charging after it has stopped when initially set to full charge, you may get it to charge those extra miles. I have had that happen before on one of the few times I charged to 100%. Don't worry about it unless you see a major drop or if you are getting close to the end of the warranty period.
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My model 3 says full at 210 miles
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AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
No, it's really not. Honestly I suspect all you can do is hope that it is software, and if it's not, that it gets worse rapidly (which it probably will, is my guess). In the meantime, I would not worry about it too much (though I realize that's easy for me to say...I would be annoyed...would probably not have made my North Rim to Vegas leg if I had had the same % degradation as you).
Celledral
Member
Ok. This is getting comical. Just over a week later I’m at 202 from 208. Can’t wait to get under that 200 mark.....
_SR
_SR
What is your avg 30mi projected range say when at 202? Just curious to see the difference of projected range without driver data (202) vs projected range over 30mi with driver data (???).
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
For the SR:
It will be 202rmi * 219Wh/rmi / (x Wh/mi)
where x is the value displayed on the left of the energy screen graph. This is only for the value 202rmi - if the battery gauge reads less then you need to plug in that value in place of 202rmi.
The 219Wh/rmi is the position of the stationary line on the screen (not 100% sure for the SR that that is the position but I think it is close).
Celledral
Member
I wouldn’t even use that number as it’s wildly inaccurate for me. To even remotely get near the projected/rated range I would have to drive with the efficiency of 190wh/mi or less.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
To get your current rated range (202 mi) to display as the projected range you would have to drive 219Wh/mi.
To actually get that 202-mile range you would have to drive 209Wh/mi.
To get the original 240 mi rated range to display as the projected range you would have to drive 202/240mi * 219Wh/mi = 184Wh/mi.
To actually get that range you would have to drive 202/240 * 209Wh/mi = 176Wh/mi.
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AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
It’s a bit of a confusing topic. The answer is probably 219Wh/mi. On the trip meter you need to achieve 209Wh/mi.
It is possible to achieve these numbers, but you cannot be using the heat or driving more than 55mph.
I'm going to service center tomorrow, I don't think they will fix it, but we'll see.
(100% charge is 203 miles) SR
Celledral
Member
I understand the math is correct, but in realistic use it’s not. To achieve the rated range from my 20+ 100-200mi trips, I have concluded that only with a driving efficiency of 180-190wh/mi can I realistically achieve the rated miles. Even with the car reporting 220wh/mi I was still about 30miles off. My experience is different from everyone’s so this is just my biased observation.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Depends on what you mean by "to achieve the rated range" - do you mean 240 miles or 202 miles (what you have)?
But that's what I said - As calculated above, to get 202 miles out of your vehicle, you need to get 209Wh/mi. To travel 240 miles, you (specifically you, not anyone else) need to do 176Wh/mi, when starting with your 100% charge at 202 rated miles.
For you, starting at 100% charge with 202 rated miles, if you use 220Wh/mi, you'll be able to travel 192 miles. (202rmi * 209Wh/rmi / 220Wh/mi)
Celledral
Member
Yes 192 miles would be great with 220wh/mi, except in "my experience" it'll probably be closer to 170+ miles I'll probably do a full documentation on my next trip for the Lulz. Also wildly entertaining to loose 18miles of range in the 4months of owning this fun little car. I would assume being top limited, we can at least hold the rated 220miles indefinitely with the 20miles of extra buffer.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
You may be confusing individual segments results summed together with the results from a single long trip. It makes a huge difference, due to the massive drain which can occur when sitting (for various reasons). Feel free to post starting rated miles, ending rated miles, and the consumption (Wh/mi) and distance traveled for each segment. You really have to be careful to not include any rated mile use when in Park.
It will likely work out perfectly - for most people it does. Just gather the data (photos right as you put it into drive and right as you put it in park are ideal), and it will make sense.
Regarding the 220 miles indefinitely - unfortunately the way Tesla has apparently always treated this (so I have been told) has been to scale your range according to the % "degradation" of the battery. So they don't simply hide degradation from you even if you have purchased an SR with 220 rated miles which is top locked. They basically just always let you charge to ~91% or 92% (~220/240, max, these are only rough percentages) of whatever maximum battery capacity you have.
For whatever reason, your car thinks your battery has degraded by 8% (202/220). We don't really know why - you might at some point get it back...hard to say.
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Celledral
Member
Thanks Alan for the informative replies. You are an asset in the forums.
I don’t drive aggressively at all this happen to me and for other model three owners in my area at the same time which was during hurricane Dorian.And I’ve spoken to at least 15 other model three owners with the same issue
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