Nema 14-50 or Nema 14-30 dryer outlet

[21miDay]

I have seen discussions of a splitter with a switch. That would allow you to avoid the issue with repeatedly unplugging from the outlet.
Here is an example. NEMA 14-30 Y Splitter with Safety Switch

 

[nitynity]

OP, do you have an electric or gas dryer

Its gas dryer.

 

[nitynity]

As others have said, if you need to use the dryer outlet for a dryer then it's going to be inconvenient to also use it for your car. Another consideration is if you will be able get the daily charge you need off-peak with the 14-30.

I imagine it would be easy to cut a notch or a hole somewhere to run the cable from the laundry room to the garage.

If you're not using the dryer outlet for anything else then I suggest you give it a try for charging your car. You probably don't even need to worry about cutting a hole for the cable until the temperature cools off. You will soon figure out if using the 14-30 outlet for your car is an inconvenient pain in the neck or not. Then you will be able to judge how much effort and money you want to put into adding a 14-50 outlet or a dedicated NACS wall connector.

TL;DR: try the cheap, simple, easy way first. If it doesn't work out then you will know you need to do something different.

Yes, for daily use, plug/unplug is not the way to go. Will have to find a splitter, maybe the one with automatic cut off feature where dryer takes priority and automatically cuts off EV port when dryer starts. Depends on how much you want to spend. There are several options I guess.

Amazon.com

Splitvolt Splitter Switch NEMA 14-30

The NEMA 14-30 Splitvolt Splitter Switch allows you to safely and automatically share your 220V - 240V dryer outlet with your EV charger, creating your own home fast level 2 charging station. No electrical installation required! Just plug it in and you have safe, L2, fast home charging in minutes.

splitvolt.com

Yes I think I should start with the basic set up, 14-30 Tesla adapter for now and see how it goes. If I am happy with the performance, consider getting a splitter and cut a hole in the drywall.

 

[Darmie]

Check the pricing again for installation. I think the price of wire may becoming down according to my vender.

 

[ItsNotAboutTheMoney]

Dryer Buddy may be an option

And there are other similar devices as well.

But you're not really meant to run cable through a wall. Some people have cheated by making a notch in the door frame and running the cable in the notch.

 

[Rocky_H]

Its gas dryer.

Oh, well then that's the option we haven't even gotten to talk about yet. You have a 240V 30A circuit that is already run almost to the garage. It's on the other side of the wall. I would get an electrician quote to just take the outlet off of that in the laundry room and extend it the extra little bit into the garage wall and put a wall connector on it. That would be properly to code and much cheaper than the entire run of a new circuit from your electrical panel.

 

[father_of_6]

Oh, well then that's the option we haven't even gotten to talk about yet. You have a 240V 30A circuit that is already run almost to the garage. It's on the other side of the wall. I would get an electrician quote to just take the outlet off of that in the laundry room and extend it the extra little bit into the garage wall and put a wall connector on it. That would be properly to code and much cheaper than the entire run of a new circuit from your electrical panel.

This is the best idea. You'll get a quality wall connector and 24 amps of charging... which really is fast enough for anyone but an Uber driver. Then you can always upgrade the wiring down the road if you feel it's worth it.

 

[3sr+buyer]

I have the Mobile connector not WC. Also, I prefer the Nema 1450 in case I get a non-Tesla, EV in the future.

Note that Tesla now offers a "universal wall connector" that has a built-in J1772 adapter for charging J1772 EVs. The Tesla plug head can be used to charge a Tesla (leaving the J1772 adapter in the holster), while pressing the button when removing the plug head from the holster causes the J1772 adapter to stay attached to the Tesla plug head for charging a J1772 EV.

https://shop.tesla.com/product/universal-wall-connector

 

[nitynity]

All right guys, just an update in case anyone else is looking for an economical solution to install Tesla charger and to avoid getting ripped off by those electricians whose charges an arm and a leg to install one of those outlets.
I was given a $1800 quote and I set up this one for under $275.

I used a Tesla Nema 1430 adapter($45.) , dryer splitter switch ($150), extension cord($45), 2 grommet wall plates($25).


I have been using this for almost a month without any issues.

 

[CobaltLights]

All right guys, just an update in case anyone else is looking for an economical solution to install Tesla charger and to avoid getting ripped off by those electricians whose charges an arm and a leg to install one of those outlets.
I was given a $1800 quote and I set up this one for under $275.

I used a Tesla Nema 1430 adapter($45.) , dryer splitter switch ($150), extension cord($45), 2 grommet wall plates($25).


I have been using this for almost a month without any issues.

I’ve been using a very similar setup for several years with no issue. Using the splitter spares the 14-30 wall outlet the wear and tear of frequently unplugging the EVSE. I ended up using a passive splitter (RV Mate), which costs $50. I make sure to never keep the car plugged in when running the dryer; it’s a cost-effective compromise and spares me the Tesla Tax that so many experience now.

 

[Eric33432]

All right guys, just an update in case anyone else is looking for an economical solution to install Tesla charger and to avoid getting ripped off by those electricians whose charges an arm and a leg to install one of those outlets.
I was given a $1800 quote and I set up this one for under $275.

I used a Tesla Nema 1430 adapter($45.) , dryer splitter switch ($150), extension cord($45), 2 grommet wall plates($25).


I have been using this for almost a month without any issues.

Earlier you stated you have a gas dryer? Is that really correct? If so, why did you need to get the splitter?

But it is a nice looking job you did.

But not to code since the National Electric Code does not allow utilization cords yo pass through walls.

 

[nitynity]

Earlier you stated you have a gas dryer? Is that really correct? If so, why did you need to get the splitter?

But it is a nice looking job you did.

But not to code since the National Electric Code does not allow utilization cords yo pass through walls.

Apparently I was wrong.
It’s an electrical dryer. I had to go through the manual to figure out what the heck it is. We just moved into this house, and the dryer came with the property.

Well, thanks for the compliment. Apparently the stupid splitter switch broke. I guess they are not meant for daily use especially by wifey and kids. I don’t know what happened now one of the positions doesn’t have any supply. so I am back to Square one. Have to manually unplug/switch between dryer and Tesla mode to charge. I could buy a different type of splitter adapter online. But there are so many mixed reviews about it that after a year or so it breaks based on reviews. So at this point, I don’t know if it’s worth going through all the hassle or just bite the bullet and get an electrician to install a new outlet for me. Because if I have to spend another $200-$300 for an adapter, which goes bad sometime moving forward, I will end up installing an outlet anyways. So far all the quotes start at $1600 all the way to $1850. I need atleast 65ft wire pulled through a kinda fully finished basement the wire can be pulled through the mechanical room exposed area. They are quoting me 4 to 8 hours of labor. Fml

 

[nitynity]

I’ve been using a very similar setup for several years with no issue. Using the splitter spares the 14-30 wall outlet the wear and tear of frequently unplugging the EVSE. I ended up using a passive splitter (RV Mate), which costs $50. I make sure to never keep the car plugged in when running the dryer; it’s a cost-effective compromise and spares me the Tesla Tax that so many experience now.

So when you’re running the dryer, do you unplug the Tesla charger from the passive splitter? Or you just do not connect the charger to the charging port on Tesla/vehicle itself?
I’m curious if it pulls any current if the Tesla charger itself is connected to the splitter when not charging.

 

[CobaltLights]

So when you’re running the dryer, do you unplug the Tesla charger from the passive splitter? Or you just do not connect the charger to the charging port on Tesla/vehicle itself?
I’m curious if it pulls any current if the Tesla charger itself is connected to the splitter when not charging.

Out of precaution, I just do not connect the charger to the charger port on the Tesla. I suspect that, if I turn off charging within the vehicle, it wouldn’t draw any current—but I’d rather than risk the inconvenience of a breaker getting tripped.

 

[DuncanM]

Apparently I was wrong.
It’s an electrical dryer. I had to go through the manual to figure out what the heck it is. We just moved into this house, and the dryer came with the property.

Well, thanks for the compliment. Apparently the stupid splitter switch broke. I guess they are not meant for daily use especially by wifey and kids. I don’t know what happened now one of the positions doesn’t have any supply. so I am back to Square one. Have to manually unplug/switch between dryer and Tesla mode to charge. I could buy a different type of splitter adapter online. But there are so many mixed reviews about it that after a year or so it breaks based on reviews. So at this point, I don’t know if it’s worth going through all the hassle or just bite the bullet and get an electrician to install a new outlet for me. Because if I have to spend another $200-$300 for an adapter, which goes bad sometime moving forward, I will end up installing an outlet anyways. So far all the quotes start at $1600 all the way to $1850. I need atleast 65ft wire pulled through a kinda fully finished basement the wire can be pulled through the mechanical room exposed area. They are quoting me 4 to 8 hours of labor. Fml

Are there any 120v outlets in the garage fed by 12-2 wire? if so then a breaker and outlet change might be cost effective and yield 120v at 16amp (20a 120v breaker and NEMA 5-20 outlet or change the breaker to 20a 240v and the outlet to a Nema 6-20) or 16a at 240v.

 

[SageBrush]

Are there any 120v outlets in the garage fed by 12-2 wire? if so then a breaker and outlet change might be cost effective and yield 120v at 16amp (20a 120v breaker and NEMA 5-20 outlet or change the breaker to 20a 240v and the outlet to a Nema 6-20) or 16a at 240v.

The suggested 12/2 circuit has to be dedicated to EV charging, meaning only one receptacle. Otherwise you have the same circuit overload concern as the dryer circuit.

 

[nitynity]

Out of precaution, I just do not connect the charger to the charger port on the Tesla. I suspect that, if I turn off charging within the vehicle, it wouldn’t draw any current—but I’d rather than risk the inconvenience of a breaker getting tripped.

Yeah, that’s the safe way to do it. I was curious if it pulls any current when leaving Tesla charger plugged into the splitter even if it’s not charging.

 

[nitynity]

Are there any 120v outlets in the garage fed by 12-2 wire? if so then a breaker and outlet change might be cost effective and yield 120v at 16amp (20a 120v breaker and NEMA 5-20 outlet or change the breaker to 20a 240v and the outlet to a Nema 6-20) or 16a at 240v.

Yes, there are 2 outlets coming to the garage as you can see from my original pic of the install. But I don’t know if the outlet is connected in series with any other circuits in the house. Kinda tricky situation I guess.

 

[DuncanM]

Yes, there are 2 outlets coming to the garage as you can see from my original pic of the install. But I don’t know if the outlet is connected in series with any other circuits in the house. Kinda tricky situation I guess.

You should be able to find the garage breaker(s). It's a simple matter to test the circuit for loads by turning off the breaker(s). One case is that the garage is fed by one breaker, and you convert one (master GFCI) outlet to a NEMA 5-20, Best case is two breakers and then you can fit a NEMA 6-20.

If you decide to run a separate line to the garage, then I'd suggest you install a subpanel in the garage and run the line to that. Additionally, you could have the line run externally via conduit which, I suspect, would reduce the labour costs somewhat.

 

[SageBrush]

Yes, there are 2 outlets coming to the garage as you can see from my original pic of the install. But I don’t know if the outlet is connected in series with any other circuits in the house. Kinda tricky situation I guess.

I don't mean to come off as harsh, but for your safety, please hire an electrician