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EricHave you tried this with a L15-20 plug to 14-50 receptacle? I can't get it to work for me. My UMC flashes 2 red blinks with no green . The manual indicates this is loss of ground. I'm wondering if it has to do with the UMC preparing for 32amp draw due to the 14-50 adapter but the 20 amp circuit failing the "test"
. Also wondering if it might just be crap wiring at my job, not so sure about that though as we have several CNC machining centers that run fine. Just curious about your experience before I buy 10-30 adapter for my UMC only to find out the wiring at our shop is faulty. Thanks
I'm pretty confident you've wired it wrong. You probably connected the ground from the plug to the neutral on the 14-50 and left ground disconnected. You should really just contact evseadapters.com and have them make you a proper adapter that signals the right amperage and keeps all of the temperature sensing intact.Have you tried this with a L15-20 plug to 14-50 receptacle? I can't get it to work for me. My UMC flashes 2 red blinks with no green . The manual indicates this is loss of ground. I'm wondering if it has to do with the UMC preparing for 32amp draw due to the 14-50 adapter but the 20 amp circuit failing the "test"
That wouldn't relate to bad ground.
Seems like that could be. Things can get loose and semi-disconnected.
Those machines are plugged into the ground, expecting it to be functional, but don't actually use it or test it in operation--the Tesla cable does. The Tesla cable runs a little ground check at startup, where it tries to trickle a small bit of current onto the ground pin to see if it seems to be floating or is really hard tied down to 0V. So it will more likely see that if ground is disconnected.
They do already make one, but it shows backordered right now. And yes, that is what I would recommend too. They make really good adapters.
Do you know what type of power you have? Your wiring is correct assuming each pin has the same voltage (3 phase wye, 208V). If you have delta (240V) you have a stinger leg. In Wye, each leg is 120v to ground and 208v between them. This is why you can take any two legs and covert to single phase 208v power. If you have Delta, one of the three legs is 208v to ground while the other two are 120v. This “stinger” leg is usually required to be L3 at the transformer but then is wired as L2/Y at most panels/outlets so you would take the “outside” wires (x and z) to get your 240V . Only way to know is to test your L15 plugs and see which wires are 120V to ground. These are the two wires you want. You may have the stinger in your current wiring and the Tesla adapter doesn’t know what to do with 1 line at 120v and the other at 208v. Optionally, you can try another combination of two wires. You can only do X-Y, X-Z and Y-Z with your wires so only two other variations from what you currently have.Have you tried this with a L15-20 plug to 14-50 receptacle? I can't get it to work for me. My UMC flashes 2 red blinks with no green . The manual indicates this is loss of ground. I'm wondering if it has to do with the UMC preparing for 32amp draw due to the 14-50 adapter but the 20 amp circuit failing the "test"
No, it can't. It has no way to see that. It sets the current by what Tesla adapter is plugged into the mobile charging cable. That's all it can see. If you then use a further adapter pigtail to make it fit into another outlet type, it can't tell. So it is going to try to draw 32A, and that will be too much for that 20A circuit, and hopefully your breaker trips. This is why we don't recommend things like this now that we don't have to anymore. Try to keep the amps matched if you do have to convert from one thing to another.
Thanks for the detailed break down of what to look for. The main panel that feeds this circuit is labeled 120/208. However my "hots" are connected to the x & z locations in the L15-20 plug because I did see a diagram somewhere that showed that as the way to do it. I'm going to bring a multi-meter to work tonight and probe the outlet just to be sure but it's starting to feel like the ground is insufficient. Do you have any pointers on how to verify the grounding issue and would I be able to remedy a grounding issue by installing a grounding rod and running a jumper wire out of the 14-50 receptacle of my homemade adapter to ensure proper ground? I'm not trying to "tamper" with the buildings wiring and I really don't want to get the maintenance guys involved because they're a pain to deal with.
Thanks for the detailed break down of what to look for. The main panel that feeds this circuit is labeled 120/208. However my "hots" are connected to the x & z locations in the L15-20 plug because I did see a diagram somewhere that showed that as the way to do it. I'm going to bring a multi-meter to work tonight and probe the outlet just to be sure.. Do you have any pointers on how to verify the grounding issue and would I be able to remedy a grounding issue by installing a grounding rod and running a jumper wire out of the 14-50 receptacle of my homemade adapter to ensure proper ground? I'm not trying to "tamper" with the buildings wiring and I really don't want to get the maintenance guys involved because they're a pain to deal with.
Thanks for the info now I know this eliminates the need to purchase the 6-20 adapter right away as I grasp at straws to try to create a free Level 2 charging solution at work. I'll continue to "test" solutions using the supplied 14-50 adapter that was included with the car until I successfully get the UMC to function at work. I'm really trying to avoid getting the maintenance dept involved, they're haters and have already shot down the idea of installing a charge port for another employee that works day shift. I'm lucky enough to work 3rd shift with a mostly empty building and can park right next to an unused loading dock that has a branch of L15-20 outlets about 10 feet from the door. and some L15-30 about 20 feet from the door. Thanks again for your help!
OK, if you are testing this, as soon as you plug in, make sure to quickly turn the amps down on the car's charging screen to no more than 16A, so you are not overdrawing from that 20A circuit.
I could see if they think it's something specific to electric cars (you mentioned a "charge port"), and they have a hatred for that, they may be resistant. Could you maybe suggest a more generic idea that they might not hate on as much? L15-20 is a really weird outlet type, since it's 3 phase. Do they really have equipment that still needs to use that specific kind of outlet? If it is an orphaned thing that isn't being used anymore and doesn't have to be that exact kind of outlet, do you think they may consider the suggestion to simply change the outlet type to something more normal and simple that you and others could use, like a 6-20? Tesla does sell a 6-20 plug directly. That would not need any new wiring run, but just capping off an unused wire or two and connecting the new outlet.
