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I think when you're reading stuff online its worth checking when it was posted/written, and maybe even where in the world the author is.

Preconditioning doesn't generally heat the battery unless it's really cold, it just takes the chill off the cabin and can be useful if the windows are ice'd up, if iuts very cold it might heat the battery a little. I'm like a few others, if the car looks icy or very cold I might turn the HVAC on manually when I'm getting ready to go out. By the time I've put my shoes on, found my coat, etc the cabins usually warmed up enough, especially if my wife is with me and she has to debate which shoes and which coat to wear..

It has been noticeably colder the last few nights so I imagine its worse than it would have been even a week ago. I think your best bet is to take it for a hours drive over the weekend if you can and see how things end up.
 
We can't answer that with the limited information you supply. How cold is it where you are? How cold was it last night? How long was the battery sitting in the cold, etc, etc.

Teslamate/fi would answer these questions.

As an aside, moving the car through cold air keeps everything cool, so it's not like ICE where everything warms up over time due to the heat from the engine.
 
I’ve just driven for 40 minutes and I still have limited regen with the dots. It just doesn’t seem to be warming the battery
Did you notice on the power meter, if part of it is dots and not a continuous line?
If I’m not mistaken this dotted part indicates the amount power you can not use until the battery has warmed up enough.
I’m sure someone will correct me if I have misunderstood.
 
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The dotted lines can appear at both ends although for different reasons. Regen will be limited with a full or near full battery or very cold, at the other end it can start to reduce at low states of charge.

Maybe the odd picture of your screen with the trip power or energy screen might help us.

If you’re actually worried, and you’re in warranty, you can raise a service request and they’ll remotely check the car.
 
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Most of my drives over the last couple of weeks have had reduced regen icon. It normally goes away when temperatures reach 15C or more. However we've had some cold nights and it will take hours for the battery temperature to increase to that level during the day.
Wait a few weeks and things will be very different. Normally, May to Oct are best months for full regen and good efficiency.
 
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That’s interesting. All my reading people were going on about how much you should precondition… make sure you precondition etc. it’s surprising to hear someone say they don’t bother as I feel that matches my opinion!
That’s because you have been stressing about range! Most people on here have LR so aren’t concerned about range… you were asking about optimising range (as those of us with SR+ and RWD are more likely to do). Clearly using a small amount of mains to precondition is worth it for those of us with smaller battery capacity… but less so for those with range to burn. They’re also more likely to be routinely using features like Sentry Mode.
 
That’s because you have been stressing about range! Most people on here have LR so aren’t concerned about range… you were asking about optimising range (as those of us with SR+ and RWD are more likely to do). Clearly using a small amount of mains to precondition is worth it for those of us with smaller battery capacity… but less so for those with range to burn. They’re also more likely to be routinely using features like Sentry Mode.
Not sure that is quite true as a LR charged to 80% gives about the same range as a LFP RWD at 100% charge. LR and Performance drivers will only go to 100% for trips or well should be but point is on normal day to day, have no more range than an LFP roughly.

I do believe the chemistry differences play a role here. The LG battery handles cold better than the old Panasonic they used to have and also better than the LFP battery. I almost never see limits on power or regen from temperature in the UK assuming I’ve not charged to 100% which does limit regen.
 
almost never see limits on power or regen from temperature in the UK assuming I’ve not charged to 100% which does
I think it also depends on the Model. I had both 3 and now Y, both LFP. I ve always had poor regen with the 3 irrespective of the charge levels. These are 2021 Q1 deliveries. The 2019 initial ones SR or SR+had a different battery not the same LFP ones as 2021 models. And the 2021 Q3 LFPhad the bigger 60kw batteries and their regen was again slightly worse compared to earlier models.

Anyhow coming back to the discussion the Modle Y RWD LFP has much better regen than the Model 3 2021 LFP batteries.
 
I think it also depends on the Model. I had both 3 and now Y, both LFP. I ve always had poor regen with the 3 irrespective of the charge levels. These are Model after 2021. The 2019 initial ones SR or SR+had a different battery not the LFP ones.

Anyhow coming back to the discussion the Modle Y RWD LFP has much better regen than the Model 3 2021 LFP batteries.
I don’t know this but do they not have the same battery but different motors? The dual motor cars regen much stronger than a RWD because they can use both motors for regen. I’m guessing but the single motor in the Model Y I think is different and probably provides a stronger regen.
 
Yes, driving a car with regen I could feel that only after 3years of owning model 3. In model 3 SR+ most of the time it is very minimal even regen set at max. Most of the time I had dotted lines or message saying regen is low.
First time I drove a Model 3 RWD was a Highland test drive. I really wanted to drive a LR but that's what they had. I was expecting obviously the slower acceleration but wasn't prepared for how much less regen they have. Sure you get used to it but with less regeneration, more chance you might need the real brakes mors often.

Maybe not a bad thing, they need to be used on occasions regardless.
 
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