New here. Driving Efficiency Question

[xPSYCHxO]

Hey all. Just bought a 2020 Model 3 SR+ with 13,000 miles on it. I've had it two weeks today and had some questions about my efficiency and battery health.

I understand, of course, that I will not be getting the range advertised as I will not be driving in the very specific conditions that EPA tests them under. I also recognize my own ignorance as this is my first EV. I'm just trying to step up to the learning curve quickly. If there is something to be concerned about, I want to have it addressed since I'm still under the 50,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty.

Now a disclaimer. I had been going to a supercharger to get charged while I waited to get my NEMA 14-50 installed for my UMC. That was taken care of this week and I have charged my M3 at home just two nights as of this post. I've seen it suggested that a more regular slow charge can help with overall efficiency, but again, I'm brand new to all this.

After two weeks, here's what I see, according to Tessie:

•Battery Health - 89.2% / Degradation 10.8%

•Capacity 45.8 kWh

Based specifically on my last two weeks of driving:

•Distance - 611 miles
•Energy used - 164.9 kWh
•Efficiency - 78% 270 Wh/mi

So I understand some of this. Enough to suspect that maybe I just accelerate too fast? I drive for DoorDash, so maybe that has something to do with.

I would appreciate any feedback

 

[mpgxsvcd]

Hey all. Just bought a 2020 Model 3 SR+ with 13,000 miles on it. I've had it two weeks today and had some questions about my efficiency and battery health.

I understand, of course, that I will not be getting the range advertised as I will not be driving in the very specific conditions that EPA tests them under. I also recognize my own ignorance as this is my first EV. I'm just trying to step up to the learning curve quickly. If there is something to be concerned about, I want to have it addressed since I'm still under the 50,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty.

Now a disclaimer. I had been going to a supercharger to get charged while I waited to get my NEMA 14-50 installed for my UMC. That was taken care of this week and I have charged my M3 at home just two nights as of this post. I've seen it suggested that a more regular slow charge can help with overall efficiency, but again, I'm brand new to all this.

After two weeks, here's what I see, according to Tessie:

•Battery Health - 89.2% / Degradation 10.8%

•Capacity 45.8 kWh

Based specifically on my last two weeks of driving:

•Distance - 611 miles
•Energy used - 164.9 kWh
•Efficiency - 78% 270 Wh/mi

So I understand some of this. Enough to suspect that maybe I just accelerate too fast? I drive for DoorDash, so maybe that has something to do with.

I would appreciate any feedback

Don't worry so much about degradation. There isn't much you can do about that now. Instead get your efficiency down. 270 wh/mi in city driving is just terrible with an SR+.

If you had 18" wheels especially the Aerodynamic ones then that will help. If you got a super efficient tire like the Hankook iON EVO all season tire that would help too.

If it is really hot or really cold where you are then it might be the Air Conditioning using extra energy. Not much you can do about that especially if your car doesn't have the heat pump.

Try to drive more smoothly. Try not to hit high speeds and then brake hard. Even braking hard with regen is inefficient. Coasting is the most efficient way to drive but not always practical on city streets.

Try not to drive right after supercharging. Hot motors and battery are not good for efficiency.

Take any extra weight out of the car that isn't absolutely necessary.

 

[shahryaran]

I've seen it suggested that a more regular slow charge can help with overall efficiency

By efficiency you mean reducing battery degradation?

 

[xPSYCHxO]

I guess so.... I'm trying to get a better understanding of all things Tesla, so as to take the best care of it possible.

 

[xPSYCHxO]

By efficiency you mean reducing battery degradation?

oops, failed to hit reply......
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I guess so.... I'm trying to get a better understanding of all things Tesla, so as to take the best care of it possible.

 

[xPSYCHxO]

Don't worry so much about degradation. There isn't much you can do about that now. Instead get your efficiency down. 270 wh/mi in city driving is just terrible with an SR+.

If you had 18" wheels especially the Aerodynamic ones then that will help. If you got a super efficient tire like the Hankook iON EVO all season tire that would help too.

If it is really hot or really cold where you are then it might be the Air Conditioning using extra energy. Not much you can do about that especially if your car doesn't have the heat pump.

Try to drive more smoothly. Try not to hit high speeds and then brake hard. Even braking hard with regen is inefficient. Coasting is the most efficient way to drive but not always practical on city streets.

Try not to drive right after supercharging. Hot motors and battery are not good for efficiency.

Take any extra weight out of the car that isn't absolutely necessary.

Thanks for the advice. I'll work on it.

 

[RayK]

Things that will help get you better driving efficiency:

• Smooth application of throttle and one-pedal driving. Don't have a lead foot and allow regen to get back some energy, especially with city driving.
• Use factory supplied tires. The Michelin MXM4 tires may have a short life but they have good energy efficiency. My own 2018 LR RWD had about 28K miles on MXM4s and overall average of 236Wh/mi efficiency. The Potenza RE980AS+ I've had on for a month is currently around 274, with no real difference in my driving style or environment as far as I'm concerned.
• Use Aero wheel covers. Tesla says that they contribute about 5% in energy savings. I don't have any personal data to back it up.
• Use of Level 2 (240VAC) charging is preferred over DC Fast (Supercharger) for the life of the battery. I'm an outlier as for the last 4 years I've used a CHAdeMO adapter, an old, almost obsolete DC charging system which offers ~45kW max simply because there's a ChargePoint station near me that has cheap electricity. Occasionally I've used an Urban Supercharger (~65kW max) when the ChargePoint stations were busy.

I could install my Wall Connector at home but why pay more for electrons? I'm retired so I can afford to spend an hour getting charged up once every couple of weeks. Currently my 100% range estimate is 300 miles. Original distance was 310 miles so that's ~5% degradation in the 5 years I've had my car. The first year I charged at work using L2.

 

[Zcd1]

Hey all. Just bought a 2020 Model 3 SR+ with 13,000 miles on it. I've had it two weeks today and had some questions about my efficiency and battery health.

I understand, of course, that I will not be getting the range advertised as I will not be driving in the very specific conditions that EPA tests them under. I also recognize my own ignorance as this is my first EV. I'm just trying to step up to the learning curve quickly. If there is something to be concerned about, I want to have it addressed since I'm still under the 50,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty.

Now a disclaimer. I had been going to a supercharger to get charged while I waited to get my NEMA 14-50 installed for my UMC. That was taken care of this week and I have charged my M3 at home just two nights as of this post. I've seen it suggested that a more regular slow charge can help with overall efficiency, but again, I'm brand new to all this.

After two weeks, here's what I see, according to Tessie:

•Battery Health - 89.2% / Degradation 10.8%

•Capacity 45.8 kWh

Based specifically on my last two weeks of driving:

•Distance - 611 miles
•Energy used - 164.9 kWh
•Efficiency - 78% 270 Wh/mi

So I understand some of this. Enough to suspect that maybe I just accelerate too fast? I drive for DoorDash, so maybe that has something to do with.

I would appreciate any feedback

270wh/mile is on the high side, but lots of starts/stops could definitely affect that figure.

My main advice is not to go down the rabbit hole of Tessie/worrying about degradation ('cause there's nothing you can do about it)/efficiency %. The car's Energy screen shows the EPA wh/mile rating as a solid line. Keeping your driving as close to that as possible will give you as close as possible to the rated range.

OItherwise, rather than worrying about efficiency %, think how much you're likely saving over a comparable ICEV driven in the same conditions!

 

[brkaus]

Try chill mode for a few days. If chill feels slow, driving style is definitely a contributing factor.

The efficiency on our m3 varies greatly on the driver. I’m the worst, wife better, daughter best.

 

[voldar]

From the start, you should know that the efficiency is dependant on 3 factors (known as the 3T) :
- terrain : elevation and surface of the road
- temperature : outside and inside, including the external factors like wind, snow, slush, rain
- technique of driving : speed, acceleration and deceleration
You can control only one of the T : technique of driving.

These are my numbers based on my driving style and my driving conditions, as recorded by Teslafi.com using a factor of 1.047. Are they better or worse than anyone else ? Maybe, but I don't really care. I don't drive my Tesla for efficiency. I always have the HVAC on Auto @ 70F.

And these are my numbers based on outside temperature :

If you want to test teslafi.com you can use my referral when you create your account and double the trial period (from 2 weeks to 1 month).

 

[XPsionic]

Hey all. Just bought a 2020 Model 3 SR+ with 13,000 miles on it.

•Battery Health - 89.2% / Degradation 10.8%

•Capacity 45.8 kWh

Based specifically on my last two weeks of driving:

•Distance - 611 miles
•Energy used - 164.9 kWh
•Efficiency - 78% 270 Wh/mi

So I understand some of this. Enough to suspect that maybe I just accelerate too fast? I drive for DoorDash, so maybe that has something to do with.

I would appreciate any feedback

Lots of replies in this thread already with various tips. There are a few free things to do: keep your tires pumped up to slightly higher pressures, and make sure you let the car regen brake to a stop instead of using physical brakes whenever possible. Also keep windows rolled up and use the AC, the aero drag with windows down uses way more energy than the AC.

Accelerations barely matter at all, I step on it pedal to the metal all the time and I still get like 225 wh/mi in the city in LA, but I almost never use the physical brakes.

Your car comes with the 19" wheels, you would get an easy 10% increase in efficiency by swapping to the 18" aero wheels and use an efficient tire like Michelin MXM4 or Hankook iON AS.

 

[DuncanM]

Hey all. Just bought a 2020 Model 3 SR+ with 13,000 miles on it. I've had it two weeks today and had some questions about my efficiency and battery health.

I understand, of course, that I will not be getting the range advertised as I will not be driving in the very specific conditions that EPA tests them under. I also recognize my own ignorance as this is my first EV. I'm just trying to step up to the learning curve quickly. If there is something to be concerned about, I want to have it addressed since I'm still under the 50,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty.

Now a disclaimer. I had been going to a supercharger to get charged while I waited to get my NEMA 14-50 installed for my UMC. That was taken care of this week and I have charged my M3 at home just two nights as of this post. I've seen it suggested that a more regular slow charge can help with overall efficiency, but again, I'm brand new to all this.

After two weeks, here's what I see, according to Tessie:

•Battery Health - 89.2% / Degradation 10.8%

•Capacity 45.8 kWh

Based specifically on my last two weeks of driving:

•Distance - 611 miles
•Energy used - 164.9 kWh
•Efficiency - 78% 270 Wh/mi

So I understand some of this. Enough to suspect that maybe I just accelerate too fast? I drive for DoorDash, so maybe that has something to do with.

I would appreciate any feedback

Put the car in Chill Mode and use AP whenever possible. Your tire pressure should be 42psi 'cold' and so higher during the day.

If you use AC a lot then a reflective sunroof cover such as this:

Amazon.com

can dramatically reduce AC power consumption. It also helps to keep the car warm in cold weather.

 

[Big Earl]

Currently my 100% range estimate is 300 miles. Original distance was 310 miles so that's ~5% degradation in the 5 years I've had my car. The first year I charged at work using L2.

LR RWD was re-rated at 325 miles, putting your degradation at about 8%, which is still very good compared to the entire fleet.

 

[freeAgent]

Lots of replies in this thread already with various tips. There are a few free things to do: keep your tires pumped up to slightly higher pressures, and make sure you let the car regen brake to a stop instead of using physical brakes whenever possible. Also keep windows rolled up and use the AC, the aero drag with windows down uses way more energy than the AC.

Accelerations barely matter at all, I step on it pedal to the metal all the time and I still get like 225 wh/mi in the city in LA, but I almost never use the physical brakes.

Your car comes with the 19" wheels, you would get an easy 10% increase in efficiency by swapping to the 18" aero wheels and use an efficient tire like Michelin MXM4 or Hankook iON AS.

I think the braking advice is key for someone coming from an ICE vehicle. The regen in the RWD cars is not as strong because there's no front motor to contribute to regen, too. That said, any use of the mechanical brakes is waste. Instead of putting energy back in your battery, you're making heat with the brake pads and rotors. Use regen braking alone as much as possible. This probably means slowing down more gradually than you may be accustomed to, but it makes a big difference to efficiency if you're stopping and going a lot (which you probably are with DoorDash).

 

[mpgxsvcd]

I think the braking advice is key for someone coming from an ICE vehicle. The regen in the RWD cars is not as strong because there's no front motor to contribute to regen, too. That said, any use of the mechanical brakes is waste. Instead of putting energy back in your battery, you're making heat with the brake pads and rotors. Use regen braking alone as much as possible. This probably means slowing down more gradually than you may be accustomed to, but it makes a big difference to efficiency if you're stopping and going a lot (which you probably are with DoorDash).

Almost all of the regen comes from the rear motor. The front motor can regen but it is typically only in panic stops from higher speeds.

Regen is definitely more efficient than friction braking. No doubt about that. However, coasting is more efficient than regen.

If your goal is ultimate efficiency then you should be trying to maintain a constant speed and avoid any kind of braking at all.

 

[freeAgent]

Almost all of the regen comes from the rear motor. The front motor can regen but it is typically only in panic stops from higher speeds.

Regen is definitely more efficient than friction braking. No doubt about that. However, coasting is more efficient than regen.

If your goal is ultimate efficiency then you should be trying to maintain a constant speed and avoid any kind of braking at all.

Yes, I'm talking about when one must slow down and has to choose between regen or traditional brakes. I believe you are incorrect about where the regen power comes from in a dual motor configuration, though. Most braking force in a traditional scenario is applied by the front brakes. That is why they are larger than the rear brakes. The reason why front brakes do more braking work is because they get better grip as the car's weight under brakes shifts forward. It's the opposite of acceleration, where the rear motor does most of the work to accelerate.

 

[mpgxsvcd]

Yes, I'm talking about when one must slow down and has to choose between regen or traditional brakes. I believe you are incorrect about where the regen power comes from in a dual motor configuration, though. Most braking force in a traditional scenario is applied by the front brakes. That is why they are larger than the rear brakes. The reason why front brakes do more braking work is because they get better grip as the car's weight under brakes shifts forward. It's the opposite of acceleration, where the rear motor does most of the work to accelerate.

I thought the same thing about the regen braking until I monitored it through CANBUS.

I am not sure exactly why they use the rear brakes only for regen most of the time but they do. Maybe it is because the rear motor is more powerful?

When it really needs to stop it will use both simultaneously. However, the vast majority of the time it will use the rear motor for stopping.

It wouldn’t let me upload a video of it. However, here is a screenshot of me regen braking to make a left turn. It is all rear motor.

 

[DuncanM]

I thought the same thing about the regen braking until I monitored it through CANBUS.

I am not sure exactly why they use the rear brakes only for regen most of the time but they do. Maybe it is because the rear motor is more powerful?

When it really needs to stop it will use both simultaneously. However, the vast majority of the time it will use the rear motor for stopping.

It wouldn’t let me upload a video of it. However, here is a screenshot of me regen braking to make a left turn. It is all rear motor.

View attachment 994333

It's probably safer to allow the front tires to retain more steering control and perferencially use regen on the rear tires.

 

[afadeev]

Your car comes with the 19" wheels, you would get an easy 10% increase in efficiency by swapping to the 18" aero wheels and use an efficient tire like Michelin MXM4 or Hankook iON AS.

By downgrading to less grippy tires, you will be trading safety, performance, and handling for marginal gains in KWh.
To each his own, but I prefer to go in the opposite direction - max safety, performance, and smiles / mile, and let KWh & MPG fall where it may.

Put the car in Chill Mode and use AP whenever possible.

In my experience, "Chill" mode does absolutely nothing for efficiency.
The throttle mapping in Chill mode is more exponential, so you have to press the accelerator pedal further to achieve same level of acceleration for the first 1/2 of pedal swing range, and after that, it almost jumps into full-throttle mode.
"Sport" mode is linear, and I find it easier and more predictable to modulate, once you calibrate your right foot.

The regen in the RWD cars is not as strong because there's no front motor to contribute to regen, too. That said, any use of the mechanical brakes is waste.

That is true.
I've had other RWD only EVs, and rear-axle-only regen engaging in slipper conditions can get very exciting very fast.
As is typically the case with off-throttle oversteer.
A solution to that eventuality is to apply mechanical brakes that distribute deceleration lateral loads across 4 tires, instead of only 2 !
This may seam a little counter-intuitive, but it may save some folks unplanned underwear changes!

Yes, I'm talking about when one must slow down and has to choose between regen or traditional brakes. I believe you are incorrect about where the regen power comes from in a dual motor configuration, though. Most braking force in a traditional scenario is applied by the front brakes.

You are absolutely correct about "normal" cars, but Tesla's don't meet that criteria.
Model 3 uses larger but more efficient and more powerful permanent-magnet motor in the rear. Front motor is a physically smaller and less powerful induction design, that easier to package over the front axle, and can free-wheel when not needed for acceleration.
Regen from starts as rear only initially, but front-motors kicks in soon after.

HTH,
a