joebiker25
Member
Sucks to have an issue on a brand new, top of the line car! I hope it is a minor fix and you get back to enjoying your rocketship!
Love the color
Love the color
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I just went through alerts in 2.40.21 and still don't even see what message you could have seen about the rear motor failure.... weird. I'm going to have to poke around 8.0 some more. Seems like they may have changed something about how the messages are parsed.
I'm still not sure what type of failure would allow the front motor to operate and not the rear. The rear motor would need 12V power, and the inverter/pedal monitor logic to still be working, as well as the slave commands to the front motor.
Definitely have got me curious, though, as to what the cause was.
Best of luck. Keep us posted.
I'm still not sure what type of failure would allow the front motor to operate and not the rear. The rear motor would need 12V power, and the inverter/pedal monitor logic to still be working, as well as the slave commands to the front motor.
Definitely have got me curious, though, as to what the cause was.
Best of luck. Keep us posted.
CuriousG
Active Member
There's your problem... you defaced it with the Text sticker.
I'm guessing next on wk's to do list is to pick up a wrecked/salvaged P100D.
The Large (older) design inverters are sensitive to voltage. If the 12v line goes low it will not be able to enable drive. I suspect what happened here was low 12v voltage prevented the rear inverter (DI) from generating drive waveforms, but since the control logic was still up it was able to send torque commands to the front (DIS).
Not only is the older design sensitive to voltage, it's also sensitive to noise on the 12v line. I have a 35A 12v battery charger that uses a switch-mode design. If this is connected to a RWD car it will completely inhibit drive. But when it was connected to a 90D it did not. I haven't tried it (yet) on a P-D. That will be the test to see if my theory holds water.
Not only is the older design sensitive to voltage, it's also sensitive to noise on the 12v line. I have a 35A 12v battery charger that uses a switch-mode design. If this is connected to a RWD car it will completely inhibit drive. But when it was connected to a 90D it did not. I haven't tried it (yet) on a P-D. That will be the test to see if my theory holds water.
Ben W
Chess Grandmaster (Supervised)
Because charging your mobile phone directly from the main battery pack might create a Galaxy Note 7 situation?
RS7 was a great car, very fast with APR flash, also a mid to high 10 second car like the p100d. The tesla actually rides better, and is more level thru the curves, prefer it's ride. Would be a close race between p100d and rs7 with apr flash. Have a feeling Tesla would be ahead early, and by around 100 the RS7 would close gap. I love the down lower power of tesla, and still has plenty of power for the 60-90mph burst necessary for 2 lane passing. Tesla has exceptional storage space, both look great. Quality wise, the interiors are different, Audi's are beautiful, but I am pleasantly surprised on the Tesla interior with upgraded seats, alcantara, and carbon. My RS7 had zero probs in 3 years with flash other than loose center channel speaker grill.
Hopefully today I will find out it is something stupid, I see in other posts that Tesla is going back to 7.1 software? Maybe just a general software glitch? Really love the car, hopefully my parade won't get rained on any more!
murphyS90D
Member
No, because then every component in the car would have to work on 400 volts.
The BIG battery charges the 12 volt battery about four times a day. It is likely that the DC to DC converter or the contactor in the HVB is what failed which means the 12 volt battery is discharged in about 12 hours.
EV-lutioin
Active Member
Can someone explain where the 12V battery is located and why on Earth a Tesla needs one?
murphyS90D
Member
It's just behind the frunk tub under the hood.
Read my previous post.
EV-lutioin
Active Member
How do you get to it if you need to replace it? Do you have to remove the frunk tub?
murphyS90D
Member
Remove both frunk side panels.
Unplug the light and the switch.
Remove the frunk liner.
Remove some bolts and remove the tub.
This is what it looks like after that.
Dropbox - 20160331_140925.jpg
DillyBop
Member
pilotSteve
Active Member
Explained many times in these forums. Basically: how do you turn on/off high voltage DC (for safety purposes) in an electric car? With large relays (known as contractors) that require a power source, which is a 12V battery.
Normally the 12V is charged when needed from the HV battery, but in a "chicken and egg" situation where the 12V completely fails for some unusual reason, the car is immobile.
EV-lutioin
Active Member
Thanks, great photo... who knew all that stuff was under the frunk!? What is in the reservoir just left of the 12V battery?
EarlyAdopter
Active Member
Glycol reservoir for cooling (and heating) the battery, electronics, and gearbox.
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