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News for Model X owners with the dreaded shudder

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The bag is available in parts for about $20. Mine did not come with the hitch or bag because it was an early production. Eventually, about a year later I got the hitch. I decided to just buy the bag because it made storage of the hitch extremely easy.

I meant I did not get the entire bag nor the contents. Perhaps I should have been more clear!
 
My 75X never shuddered until they uncorked it.

Now get the shudder at full throttle.

Reset the suspension to Low from Standard and the shudder is gone.

Understand that tire wear is not an issue, running on low.

Like the car better on low. It seems to hold the road better and sway less. Also looks better.

This is my same situation. After my last service I felt the car was sluggish, and no more shudder. Unfortunately it looks like I was re-corked. Doesn’t exceed 200kw now.
 
I've noticed mine occurs the most after a sharp right turn. Usually out of my neighborhood.

Same issue here. More predominant on our 12/2016 MX (38K miles) but still get the shakes in our 12/2017 MS (16K miles). Both vehicles adjust to very high to avoid bottoming out on our driveway and lower back to standard before the right turn into traffic, typically at full acceleration (or there about) ;)
 
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Definitely need great news. When I got my X the end of September I immediately did the first hard acceleration in Normal and I already got the shudder (I read about this problem before I got my X). And within a month I also got it in Low even (an appointment to replace the front axles was already made!). It is now gone after they replaced them.
 
Definitely need great news. When I got my X the end of September I immediately did the first hard acceleration in Normal and I already got the shudder (I read about this problem before I got my X). And within a month I also got it in Low even (an appointment to replace the front axles was already made!). It is now gone after they replaced them.
Our P100D was delivered end of September and had the first hints of this in October, more it is clearly "the shudder" (reverb like a promo) have to get up to the service center eventually
 
My service center says:
  1. They don't fix it because it's a "design characteristic"
  2. They aren't aware of any engineering fix in the works
Then again, my service center also says: "we can't align in low because corporate says we have to align in standard."
 
My service center says:
  1. They don't fix it because it's a "design characteristic"
  2. They aren't aware of any engineering fix in the works
Then again, my service center also says: "we can't align in low because corporate says we have to align in standard."

The once upon a time great Tesla service is slowly eroding, thanks to the flood of M3's, but it had to happen at some point anyway once the mass market became Tesla's target. However, Tesla is walking a thin line because they still have many QC/QA and operational issues compared to other established car companies. If service slips, at least they ought to ensure that they have superior QC/QA at the factory. Otherwise their reputation can take a hit, which is almost never good for a start-up!
 
Then again, my service center also says: "we can't align in low because corporate says we have to align in standard."

Interesting take when new cars are delivered with "always low" as the default setting (at least for the last year). I suppose they could still do the alignment in "standard" position, it just depends on what settings they adjust it to. But when you see the factory camber setting tolerances you realise it's just a lottery anyway! I think our local SC is fairly pro-active in adjusting toward the lower end of the camber range to minimise inside tyre wear at low ride height. Mine has been good over 15k miles in low and fingers crossed no acceleration shudder.
 
Interesting take when new cars are delivered with "always low" as the default setting (at least for the last year). I suppose they could still do the alignment in "standard" position, it just depends on what settings they adjust it to. But when you see the factory camber setting tolerances you realise it's just a lottery anyway! I think our local SC is fairly pro-active in adjusting toward the lower end of the camber range to minimise inside tyre wear at low ride height. Mine has been good over 15k miles in low and fingers crossed no acceleration shudder.
I actually asked them if the specifications changed, since aligning in standard with ne specifications would effectively be the same as aligning in low, and they indicated that they have not. I also had them check my treadwear (I use standard except for automatic lowering above 65mph, which isn't much of my driving), and it was pretty uniform all the way around. I'd be happy to drive in always low if my tire wear would be even there.
 
I just got my X100D last week and I'm all confused. I'm not a tire/suspension/camber whatever expert. What would you guys recommend me to do? Right now I'm at always low. Should I switch back to Normal until they find a fix? Thanks!
 
I just got my X100D last week and I'm all confused. I'm not a tire/suspension/camber whatever expert. What would you guys recommend me to do? Right now I'm at always low. Should I switch back to Normal until they find a fix? Thanks!
Most of the information in this thread is anecdotal. Leave your new X100D on Always Low for now, but monitor treadwear. You can change it to standard later on if the inside tread is wearing faster.
 
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Thanks. What would be the best way to measure treadwear and how often I should be doing it?
This has been on my to do list for years, but probably find a tread depth gauge on Amazon. Alternatively, ask for the measurements when you're in for service anyway, or if you don't really want to mess with it at all, just ask how the wear looks when you're replacing your first set of tires.
 
Is it true that this issue shows itself from flooring the accelerator?

Floored or close to it, and worse at higher suspension settings.

This is the tread depth gauge I bought from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078TCYPR7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Its frame sits on the tread and the little plunger pin is manually pushed down into the grooves while the digital meter reports the plunger travel. Works fine, though something that would measure across the whole tread at once wold be nice!

Check the inside shoulders of the tires in particular. My treadwear was looking even according to Tesla until the inside edge wore out. I don't think they measure that close to the edge. The inside edges don't have the same tread depth as the center, so you need an initial "no wear" measurement so you can track tread loss. I'm also 50% suspicious that filling to higher PSI might be a problem.
 
I dropped off my ‘16 60D with 25k miles yesterday at the Service Center for this issue. So those who may speculate uncorking contributed to this issue may not be the case. I had to take the a tech out to show him the issue and immediately after pulling out of the driveway he clearly heard the issue and stated this was the first vehicle he had encountered with this. I was a bit surprised by this after following this thread for sometime, but he did say it sounded like the half shaft (we know) and they new ones they could put in. Based on the app, they worked on the vehicle for most the day today and took it for a short drive in the late afternoon, and parked it. Not sure if they resolved the issue yet, but if I learn anything useful I will be sure to share it.
 
Fair warning to people who are taking their cars in for this. if your car is older than 18 months they will charge you a fee to “diagnose” the shudder. They tried to do that to me at Dublin. They didn’t fix it, they just charged me $125 to diagnose it and tell me that it was there and “normal.”

To be fair, it was on the estimate that I signed but I thought it would be waived once it was discovered. They said they wouldn’t charge the diagnosis fee if it were an actionable repair. Go figure.
 
Fair warning to people who are taking their cars in for this. if your car is older than 18 months they will charge you a fee to “diagnose” the shudder. They tried to do that to me at Dublin. They didn’t fix it, they just charged me $125 to diagnose it and tell me that it was there and “normal.”

To be fair, it was on the estimate that I signed but I thought it would be waived once it was discovered. They said they wouldn’t charge the diagnosis fee if it were an actionable repair. Go figure.

Other posts on here about SC saying 60D Xs cannot be software unlocked to 75D battery, SCs making up stuff on Hepa filter retrofits, no longer replacing yellowed MCU screens and now charging to diagnose a well known issue.....

By the looks of it Tesla service is rapidly going down hill with Model 3 release :(.
 
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