You can install our site as a web app on your iOS device by utilizing the Add to Home Screen feature in Safari. Please see this thread for more details on this.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
New video just landed from Bjorn, that was where I got the spreadsheets from originally, he has a website...
View attachment 656035
I understand your decision, I came damn close to making the same choice, but have decided to stick with it - pretty confident that Tesla will sort it.... eventuallyIndeed. Cancelled my P order today and confirmed LR - it’s faster half the time
Out of interest, did you inform Tesla of your reason for cancellation? If so did you get any kind of feedback?Indeed. Cancelled my P order today and confirmed LR - it’s faster half the time
Sure I understand.I understand your decision, I came damn close to making the same choice, but have decided to stick with it - pretty confident that Tesla will sort it.... eventually
For what it's worth, I did a couple of runs 0-100km in my 2021 M3P at 06.30 today. Outside temperature 1C, car had been sitting on the drive all night. Drove 2 kms then did the runs 20% SOC - just had a stop watch in the car - no professional timing gear, car on the P Zeros - so not optimal grip. 1st run all heating etc. off 6.0, 2nd run aircon set to 22C 6.1. Teslalogger shows the max power at 262BHP- only just set it up so not sure how reliable that is.
Power reduction to ~6sec 0-60 at 20% charge level doesn't seem too harsh. Who in their right mind is caning the car when they've so little charge left? The other consideration here is that range drops significantly during acceleration, so 20% could quite easily become 14%, which could become 7% and then 0% if it was sustained?
I would agree this is very subjective. I know that personally I would accept if there was an identified and clear drop in performance at a fixed percentage of say 25% to save battery life and prioritise range, based on other things i have read this would likely be at 20% along with Sentry mode turning off etc.I'm afraid I don't agree. Whats more the previous Performance battery didn;t do it so the new one shouldn't, or at least not to the extent it does
I think we can also debate what "caning it" means. If its "max throttle", then 6s to 60 is caning it if your foot is flat to the floor. If you had a 1l Nova and hit 60 in 6s most would suggest you've caned it, thats whats happened here in the Tesla, so its not the time it take, its how hard you press the go pedal.
Yeah but at least you get the spoiler! (until is falls off)I suspect Tesla will address this in some fashion by adjusting/optimising the scavenging of the heatpump , as it would seem that it is taking too much heat from the battery (hence the dots) than is desireable, at least on the P.
No one has a MIC M3P yet, so all anyone knows it might not even be a problem on that.
Everyone's circumstances and tolerance levels are different on this. There is a big price delta between LR and P, so if one were paying a lot extra per month or buying outright then I'd expect it to raise serious questions. The P should be faster than the LR in all cases, and with pre-2021 cars there isn't much in it between a LR+Accel Boost and P, so if the 2021 LR is more performant at most SoCs that would be a rather silly state of affairs.
Power reduction to ~6sec 0-60 at 20% charge level doesn't seem too harsh. Who in their right mind is caning the car when they've so little charge left? The other consideration here is that range drops significantly during acceleration, so 20% could quite easily become 14%, which could become 7% and then 0% if it was sustained?
Well you see what you want to see. 13 pages on the Tesla site of complaints, multiple threads in every Tesla forum and owners club (including here), Youtube videos,.... spreadsheets compiled, comparisons done.Haven't the guys in the US had any M3P 2021 cars delivered, some states in the US are way colder than here, seems weird there is not more of a kickback on that side of the pond, I ask as I assume the car in question here was a Fremont built car and this degradation in the US would typically always leads usually to a lawsuit as does everything in the US.
Forgive me for thinking that if you got a P, you would expect it to be faster than the LR in all circumstances... Remember the figs show that <40% the LR is actually quicker than the P.
Who buys a P to then not be able to use the extra power half the time? and if you're buying the P then you also probably prioritise performance over range, I would guess...
Don't get me wrong here, there is something definitely incorrect in the programming of the power limiting on the 2021 Model 3Ps as indicated, but what I was getting at would be to compare it to my previous vehicles.
BMW M3, Lotus Elise SC, BMW M140i - if I ended up with 1/5th of a tank of fuel left, the last thing I would want to do was to start driving it hard. My butt gets twitchy when it gets to 40%, let alone lower!
The LR always seems to outperform the P in the strangest of ways - £120 per month cheaper, better in-motion acceleration, seemingly more stable power bands regardless of % Charge... only negative would be the brakes overheat (although who is using them with 1 Pedal Driving?) and that it doesn't have the alloys and suspension that the M3P has.
Strangely, the LR is meant to have inferior/inefficient electric motors when compared to the P too.