-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Phone as key and Tesla WC observations
- Thread starter Yev000
- Start date
WannabeOwner
Well-Known Member
Sorry, arriving late to this thread
Interesting. Certainly "unlock charger" would be bad if anyone could do it whilst it was charging, and thereby stop your charge prematurely ... maybe that is also a reason to not allow charger port opening when car locked (would be handy to lalow "plug in and charge my car later please ... but maybe there is a future "steal my V2G electricity" threat or somesuch?)
... but I have definitely had my charge port opened, when car definitely locked, when it was parked next to a Supercharger stall - all the cars parked nearby in fact. I assumed that someone else using the "button" on Supercharger wand was the reason. But that was an old pre-facelift MS ... might well have changed
Turn off auto-lock?
I read somewhere that was stopping the car sleeping too, and the reason was because the phone location (inside the house) was still in BT range of the car. Is your phone still near the car? if so maybe try a bit further away ... and if that solved it then you probably need to either keep the phone that far away, or turn off BT or somesuch ... in order that the car can sleep ... proper 1st world problem if that turns out to be the case.
TeslaFi (probably others) will check the Online Status, if it is aware that the car has recently been asleep, without waking the car up. Of course the data it then provides may well be "stale"
I would advise anyone using passive entry to turn ON pin-to-drive. Far too easy for thieves to steal the car otherwise.
I've never put that 2+2 together, thanks for that. I definitely have that. When Wife and I go out I always drive. The seat always moves to her position ... and when I get out at Supercharger to plug in the seat moves to her position ...
It had never occurred to me before but is this an American "Car is LHD assumption" thing do you think?
Interesting. Certainly "unlock charger" would be bad if anyone could do it whilst it was charging, and thereby stop your charge prematurely ... maybe that is also a reason to not allow charger port opening when car locked (would be handy to lalow "plug in and charge my car later please ... but maybe there is a future "steal my V2G electricity" threat or somesuch?)
... but I have definitely had my charge port opened, when car definitely locked, when it was parked next to a Supercharger stall - all the cars parked nearby in fact. I assumed that someone else using the "button" on Supercharger wand was the reason. But that was an old pre-facelift MS ... might well have changed
Turn off auto-lock?
I read somewhere that was stopping the car sleeping too, and the reason was because the phone location (inside the house) was still in BT range of the car. Is your phone still near the car? if so maybe try a bit further away ... and if that solved it then you probably need to either keep the phone that far away, or turn off BT or somesuch ... in order that the car can sleep ... proper 1st world problem if that turns out to be the case.
TeslaFi (probably others) will check the Online Status, if it is aware that the car has recently been asleep, without waking the car up. Of course the data it then provides may well be "stale"
I would advise anyone using passive entry to turn ON pin-to-drive. Far too easy for thieves to steal the car otherwise.
I've never put that 2+2 together, thanks for that. I definitely have that. When Wife and I go out I always drive. The seat always moves to her position ... and when I get out at Supercharger to plug in the seat moves to her position ...
It had never occurred to me before but is this an American "Car is LHD assumption" thing do you think?
No the car sleeps fine, just the phone dies a lot faster now. I used to use it as satnav for 2 hours a day + regular browsing and I got home with ~30%. Now if I dont charge it in the car ill get home with the same amount while not using it as much.
Yeah, that's what I do, but the issue is some times you can open the app accidentally, fat fingers and all that, and that wakes the car... The whole wake up procedure needs to be a lot better (and sleeping). I want to just open the app and select the button for precondition, THEN it should wake the car up and update. Going to TeslaFi on a phone is not fantastic. Right now I open the app in the morning, go to conditioning and the "waking up" message blocks the button, that's just bad UI design.
Also, why can't the damn thing turn off fully? Airport carparks etc...
By the way, there has been at least 2 occasions when my charge door opened by itself. The first occasion it pretty much flapped opened and closed like a little falcon wing imitation until I put the car in drive.
And another pet peeve of mine! 3rd party type 2 cable!!!! Oh god, why isn't there a way to unlock charge port easier? Why do I have to go to the "charge" menu for that when the open charge port button is on the main car display? The amount of times I had to fumble with the phone to get that thing disconnected.... And why doesn't Tesla come with a Teslafied type 2 cable with a button one one end? Maybe I'm just spoilt, but it's really annoying.
WannabeOwner
Well-Known Member
Model-S/X you can press-and-hold the Boot button (on keyfob), with fob held near the charge port. Perhaps could do add something similar for M3
MrBadger
Badger out
whats a key fob ? 
Actually yesterday, got UMC connector stuck in charge port - was surprised to find that in car display had no apparent option to unlock charge port - it only offered stop charge which was rather dumb as I had the 3 pin plug in my hand and no tesla coil to breach the air gap - UMC blew RCD trip, again. Had hoped I had sorted the problem, but alas not, and I wasn't going to try unplugging the fridge again.
Had to revert to the phone to unlock. Although I did search out the manual release but didn't use it.
Actually yesterday, got UMC connector stuck in charge port - was surprised to find that in car display had no apparent option to unlock charge port - it only offered stop charge which was rather dumb as I had the 3 pin plug in my hand and no tesla coil to breach the air gap - UMC blew RCD trip, again. Had hoped I had sorted the problem, but alas not, and I wasn't going to try unplugging the fridge again.
Had to revert to the phone to unlock. Although I did search out the manual release but didn't use it.
Last edited:
WannabeOwner
Well-Known Member
its what Model-S users used to get a nice leather or neoprene pouch, but now comes in a shrink wrapped plastic bag with VIN number printed on it ...
Glan gluaisne
Active Member
A bit fiddly to fit the button, but other than that adapting a Type 2 connector so that it can open the charge port, etc, is pretty easy. I recently modified a connector in readiness for my M3 arriving, and will probably add a similar button to my spare 10m Type 2 lead:
WannabeOwner
Well-Known Member
My understanding was that wiring for "Open" is easy, but "Stop charge and release" is more tricky.
Looks like you already discussed that with Arg though:
So... I won’t be getting a Rolec
Glan gluaisne
Active Member
Yes, the open bit just sends a code using a 433.92MHz OOK transmission to the car. The "stop charge and release" just needs the button to do the same as the microswitch on a Type 1 connector, and switch the PP line.
If using the kit from Tesla retrofit button kit - evChargeking then the wiring bit is pretty easy, and gives full functionality, much like a genuine Tesla cable.
The hardest part is fitting the button. I'm not convinced that the way I fitted the button in the photo above is the best way, as it was a real faff to fit it on the join line of the connector. The button itself is weatherproof, but not that easy to press with a thumb. For the next connector I modify I think I'll try and find a different type of push button, and mount it on the side of the connector, so it is easier to press with a thumb.
WannabeOwner
Well-Known Member
Glan gluaisne
Active Member
I might write up a guide, as the instructions from the manufacturer of the kit aren't great. Taking the connector apart is usually pretty straightforward, as is the wiring, as there's usually two thin wires inside the connector that connect the PP resistor to PE and PP. The resistor just needs to be snipped out and the leads from the kit soldered to them, with heat shrink sleeving to protect the joints. The only other wiring is between the leads from battery module that comes with the kit to the module itself, plus two wires to the push button.
The hardest part is fitting the button, as although there is a fair bit of empty space inside the connector, finding somewhere flat enough to drill a hole and in a place where you can press the button easily, isn't that easy. I'll try and take some photos of the next one I modify, but it won't be for a while, as I want to make sure the one I've just done works OK first.
The hardest part is fitting the button, as although there is a fair bit of empty space inside the connector, finding somewhere flat enough to drill a hole and in a place where you can press the button easily, isn't that easy. I'll try and take some photos of the next one I modify, but it won't be for a while, as I want to make sure the one I've just done works OK first.
Do you have to disconnect from the mains before you do this?
Glan gluaisne
Active Member
Ideally, yes, but the cable and car end are isolated from the supply unless plugged into a car that's loaded the CP to the right level, so, if you know what you're doing it's safe enough to do without disconnecting anything (IMHO, but my appetite for risk may be higher than some). You shouldn't get close to any of the potentially live terminals in the connector when doing this, either, as they are well shrouded inside the connector. As a wise precaution, it should be easy enough to make the connector really safe by just flipping the MCB/RCBO in the supply to the charge point, and this would be a sensible thing to do.
Apart from the kit, the other stuff needed would be some solder and some heat shrink sleeving. The tools needed would be the right screwdriver to remove the screws holding the connector together (often T-15 Torx screws), a soldering iron, wire cutters, and something to shrink the sleeving (hot air gun or a lighter at a pinch). You also need a drill to make a hole for the push button, plus a sharp knife or similar to de-burr the hole.
Glan gluaisne
Active Member
It would be pretty easy to just fit the Tesla button kit into a small fob-sized box. It would open the charge port OK, but wouldn't be able to stop a charge, as to do that needs connections to the connector PP and PE terminals.
Can the PIN to drive be user specific?
Then at least the seat will move to my setting when I enter my pin - although I may not be able to get into the seat in the first place!
