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Plaid 21” rear tire woes - factory defect?

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That is why I went low-key with the Macsboost camber kit. It draws a lot less attention to the issue and than bright colorful adjustable camber arms.

I wish Macsboost had made their camber kit even less noticeable. Instead of the loop design, it looks like they could have made shims the same shape as the mounts so they are basically undetectable to the warranty guards at Tesla Service.
 
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Good idea.

I am planning to just buy some sheet metal and make my own. Besides, my camber is not the same left to right, so I need different sized shims on each side, and Macsboost didn't think about when they made one-size-fits-all. Thank you Tesla build quality.
100% correct. Every corner varies and one size doesn’t fit all. This is ecovdent but some having to slightly shift the subframes to get equal alignment values on each side without going to more aftermarket components with a larger range of adjustability.

I know another tuner posted here that uses different thickness shims to dial in exactly. He was charging about $3 a shim but also said you can source them locally for cheaper.

Regardless, once you change the length of that arm in any method, makes sure to put the vehicle on an alignment rack and get a proper alignment. Toe varies so much from the factory that adjusting toe a predetermined about without analyzation is a receipt for disaster.

While the camber is a culprit for wear improper toe is what scrubs the inner sidewalls causing the failures.

Too much negative camber COMBINED with too much toe out is whats going in with these failures.
 
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Good idea.

I am planning to just buy some sheet metal and make my own. Besides, my camber is not the same left to right, so I need different sized shims on each side, and Macsboost didn't think about when they made one-size-fits-all. Thank you Tesla build quality.
Yes, there can be variation. My camber is off about 0.2 degrees side to side which is unnoticeable on the street and most likely on the track.

The main part is I am outside of the "danger" zone now with excessive negative camber and the toe is correct so my next tires should last longer. So am I going to drop a grand on adjustable camber arms, plus labor if I don't do it myself, and the cost of another alignment to get the camber identical on both sides, hell no. Is it worth dealing with removing and adjusting a bunch of shims? Again, no.

I am very happy where I am at and the car feels much better than it did before.
 
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100% correct. Every corner varies and one size doesn’t fit all. This is ecovdent but some having to slightly shift the subframes to get equal alignment values on each side without going to more aftermarket components with a larger range of adjustability.

I know another tuner posted here that uses different thickness shims to dial in exactly. He was charging about $3 a shim but also said you can source them locally for cheaper.

Regardless, once you change the length of that arm in any method, makes sure to put the vehicle on an alignment rack and get a proper alignment. Toe varies so much from the factory that adjusting toe a predetermined about without analyzation is a receipt for disaster.

While the camber is a culprit for wear improper toe is what scrubs the inner sidewalls causing the failures.

Too much negative camber COMBINED with too much toe out is whats going in with these failures.

Yes, I always check alignment whenever I get a new car, any work has been done, or it's been a while since I last checked. Fortunately, I found a great tool for very accurately checking alignments at home, and I even use it to make my own adjustments and check the alignment is good. It's using cool physics principles to get really high accuracy on alignment measurements.


And I use a digital level for checking and fixing any camber/caster issues.


I hate alignment shops because they just want to do less than the bare minimum of work to get their fixed-priced money, so the freedom from those crooks feels great.
 
Yes, there can be variation. My camber is off about 0.2 degrees side to side which is unnoticeable on the street and most likely on the track.

The main part is I am outside of the "danger" zone now with excessive negative camber and the toe is correct so my next tires should last longer. So am I going to drop a grand on adjustable camber arms, plus labor if I don't do it myself, and the cost of another alignment to get the camber identical on both sides, hell no. Is it worth dealing with removing and adjusting a bunch of shims? Again, no.

I am very happy where I am at and the car feels much better than it did before.
Did you ever have a before install analysis? Wonder what the net change was with the shims. What was it after and in what height setting was the alignment preformed in ?
 
Did you ever have a before install analysis? Wonder what the net change was with the shims. What was it after and in what height setting was the alignment preformed in ?
Didn't have a before install done. I can say the Macsboost kit takes about 0.8 degrees of negative camber based on my research. I asked the shop to do it in the low setting for my car with ballast equal to my weight.

The people who did my alignment do good work and are reasonable. They charge $120 to do a 4 wheel alignment. I had them do my 3 after the MPP coilovers as well.
 
100% correct. Every corner varies and one size doesn’t fit all. This is ecovdent but some having to slightly shift the subframes to get equal alignment values on each side without going to more aftermarket components with a larger range of adjustability.

I know another tuner posted here that uses different thickness shims to dial in exactly. He was charging about $3 a shim but also said you can source them locally for cheaper.

Regardless, once you change the length of that arm in any method, makes sure to put the vehicle on an alignment rack and get a proper alignment. Toe varies so much from the factory that adjusting toe a predetermined about without analyzation is a receipt for disaster.

While the camber is a culprit for wear improper toe is what scrubs the inner sidewalls causing the failures.

Too much negative camber COMBINED with too much toe out is whats going in with these failures.
Disagree as there have been ZERO sidewall/tread failures with the OEM Pirelli tires, AFAIK.

The Michelins come apart because of poor design or construction, and they should be recalled before someone gets hurt….

Michelin WILL replace our OEM tires if you file a formal request, and please file a complaint with NHTSA.gov as well.
 
Disagree as there have been ZERO sidewall/tread failures with the OEM Pirelli tires, AFAIK.

The Michelins come apart because of poor design or construction, and they should be recalled before someone gets hurt….

Michelin WILL replace our OEM tires if you file a formal request, and please file a complaint with NHTSA.gov as well.
Is there an OEM 21" Pirelli?
 
light-bulb-idea.gif
 
I just bought a MSP with the 21” option.

I will drive in low all the time.

I did read the Tesla manual for wheel alignment (didnt read it in exact detail).
As I understand it tesla use a setting that is partly good in ”normal” and partly good in “low”.

I think it would be wise to make a wheel alignment on the ride height you would use, and make it perfect for this setting.

Anyone done this already?