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Where does the rope contact the rubber seal? More specifically, is it right at the outer tip of the seal or is it more in the middle or is it right over the pinch weld where the seal pushes on to the car? I think this is another version of what I tried with the stiffer rubber adjuster replacments (to minimize hatch movement) but your solution is likely applying stiffer pressure all the way around the hatch (sort of like when I tried taping tbe entire hatch gap shut.I sent my model S to the service center three times to fix the pressure buffeting, and each time the car came back better, so always start there. But the pressure buffeting (boomy) was still not as good as my prior car, a Prius. The four knobs are too fussy and won't work in all situations, at least in my case. My solution has worked very well for my car. I have taped a 1/2 inch diameter rope all around the hatch lid, where it should come in contact with the seal, see the attached photo. I had to adjust the position of the rope based on impressions in the lower rubber seal, which took about a week. Everyone in the family agrees the car is much quieter now. Closing the hatch requires two hands and a bit of force.
View attachment 240535
I've placed the rope such that it contacts the middle of the rubber seal. Hatch movement is the problem, so it seems that supporting the lid (and tightening the seal) all the way around should be helpful. I thought about trying this from reading cab's post about taping the lid shut. The two corners at the bottom of the trunk, the rubber seal shows no indentation from the rope, so no support there (maybe the adjusters?). I also tried adjusting the strike plate downwards, and the lid was more secure, however I got the yellow warning that the lid was open (it wasn't loose). I don't know how those little rubber knobs are anywhere near enough to support that giant hatch back lid. I hadn't thought about the frunk, maybe there is something to try there.
Boy, Cab, I thought this was an excellent thought on your part. Because as you sort of pointed out if the weather stripping is not making full contact all around the sealing area, then that could certainly create the sound buffeting that everyone on this thread is experiencing. I'm surprised nobody came back with a response.
BTW, any help with the appointment on the 18th?
I took my car(2016S75D) to the local service center and they changed out my tires and rims with another set they had on hand and THEY said it seemed to eliminate the buffeting. So they put a brand new set of tires on my car (Goodyears) and the buffeting reappeared.
Their solution was that I buy a new set of tires (ie Michelins) at my own expense!! Are your F!@$ing kidding me???? This is a car that has 5700 miles on it, that was not right from the factory and they want me to pay for the fix?? Will never ever buy another tesla. freakin build quality sucks for a car that costs over 90K. Wow.
I just left he Tesla Service Center with the buffeting issue. The first tech that rode with me said he did not feel or hear anything. The second said he hears it and feels it but every Tesla he has driven has been the same way. When I talked to the sales advisor who delivered the car to he he talked about the fix of raising the hatch stoppers like what have been mentioned in this forum and we tried it. We raids both sides little by little with a drive in between each adjustment until the hatch warning tone told us that the car was not registering the hatch closed. The buffeting remained..... Here is the oddest part. Even if you open one or more windows about a half inch the buffeting continues a bit. This leads me to believe it might be tone/noise related not just pressure or not pressure at all. I had tried to experiment myself at home but when I was driving with the Tesla employees and focusing just on this issue the issue became clearer.... I am happy to hear that some of you have remedied your problem with adjustments but my issue does not appear to have a simple fix. I'm guessing it has something to do with friction created with bumps making the car seem like the inside of a drum. Just my 2 cents.... and experience....
Would I then be correct in assuming that you don't hear this sound on a smooth highway?My understanding is that this problem is because the rear liftgate tends to vibrate up and down naturally as the car drives. There are three stoppers on either side of it to help absorb the movement. The problem is that the slight movement is creating an effect where the air inside the cabin compresses and decompresses repeatedly, leading to a low pitch rumbling sound. Further compounding the problem, not everyone can actually hear sounds at such a low frequency. I hear them loud and clear and it drives me nuts. My spouse can't hear anything.
I brought my car to the service center and they used some sort of oil or dye to adjust all the contact points to an even and natural position so all 6 have equal contact between the liftgate lid and the base. This made the problem much better, but it's still noticeable when I have the radio off. If you adjust each of them up slightly it will absorb more of the vibration (probably because it holds the door in place more firmly so it can't vibrate), but then the alignment of the liftgate with the outside of the body panels is messed up. It's a trade-off.
I would ask the SC to adjust the stoppers all to a neutral position first, then maybe give them an extra adjustment past that (outward, so they push against the stoppers on the liftgate lid) to hold it more firmly. Be careful to adjust all of the stoppers by the same amount, or use a dab of mineral oil to check the size of the contact on each stopper to visually inspect for equal pressure on all of them.
This has happened to me also on every car I have owned. Usually some combination of rear windows open. Usually, adjusting the windows can make it go away. However, I hardly ever drive with the windows open (aerodynamics and road noise). I usually open the sunroof if I want fresh air. Never had a problem buffeting with the sunroof open.Almost every car I've owned for the last 20 years has had pressure buffeting with the windows in some position or other. The only one I can think of that doesn't do that is the Roadster.