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Pulling the ESP fuse

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Sorry, I did not find anything about that with the forum search. I am sure this must have been discussed already.

Which fuse do I have to pull to disable EPS and traction control completely? I know there are multiple fuse boxes on the Model S.

What are the drawbacks in doing that? I mean not while driving without ESP, but after plugging it in again? I heard some rumors that you need to visit the service center to calibrate the system again, which I highly doubt.

Video for inspiration:

Thanks!
Chris
 
you will lose ABS too but besides that I think it is 'all good'. I have a buddy that pulled the fuse on his P85D to try it out for autocross...almost uncontrollable/scary especially with all season tires. does some wicked 4 wheel burnout doughnuts though!!!
..not sure if they changed anything in later years. he has AP1 and a '14 I think
 
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I have an AP1 2016 MS 85D, and yesterday decided to pull the ABS fuse to try to get this thing to slide. Worked decently. My car has this fuse box:
1660933246919.png

I decided to try pulling fuse F103, listed as ABS Valves. I did this while the car was still on, with the door open, but I had gotten out of the driver's seat so the car said "Car Off." upon putting my foot back on the brake, about half of these warnings appeared, and the rest appeared immediately upon starting to move the car. The car had no regen, seemed to put more power down at lower speed instead of limiting power all the way to 40mph, and the power steering was substantially limited, but seemed still to be doing something, because I wouldn't expect to be able to move the wheel of a stationary 4800lb car without it. The car allowed some wheel spin, but was still hopping in turns and wouldn't kick the back end out more than 20-30 degrees at most, with full steering lock. Very loud, and enough to burn some tires, but really not all that exciting. (This was all on dry pavement using a puddle to wet the tires.) Notably absent from the list of errors was "Traction control disabled." I saw stability control disabled after pulling the fuse and decided we were good to go, but it seems possible that the traction control was still partially on, limiting the wheel spin and causing the wheel hopping. My goal is to make this 400hp AWD monster do a clean doughnut on dry pavement, and this was a step in the right direction, but not enough. Next time I will see if I can turn on "Slip Start" in conjunction with this or also pull fuse F151 listed as "ABS Pump motor".
1660933428911.png

For those worried about needing a service center visit afterwards, I did not. I got out of the car, let the screens turn off, and replaced the fuse. Once I got back in the car all the lights turned off except for the warnings "Power braking assist reduced," which didn't seem to actually be the case, and the warning "Automatic emergency braking disabled". I might have noticed a slightly different brake pedal feel, but it was minor enough it could have easily been placebo. I drove about 3 miles to drop someone off, and by his point I was stressing out about those last two warnings, but before I went into my friend's house to say hi to some of his family, I hit the "power off" button on the center screen. When I came back to the car after about 5-10 minutes, the last warnings had disappeared. As always when messing with your car like this I suggest turning off "Data sharing" before you try this.

These were my overall findings when trying this fuse, and although I wouldn't say just because I didn't need a service center visit afterwards, doesn't mean there isn't some risk (beyond the obvious of hitting a curb or light post in a parking lot.) If pulling the second fuse works to my satisfaction, I may consider putting in a relay and a traction control switch in the cabin, to avoid having to get out of the car to disable / enable traction control. I will also keep this thread up to date if I get any ABS related errors in the future that don't have an obvious cause, or that could be related to this, although it seemed to work quite well and once I let the car restart everything seemed fine software wise.

I hope someone else finds this information useful.
 
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I have an AP1 2016 MS 85D, and yesterday decided to pull the ABS fuse to try to get this thing to slide. Worked decently. My car has this fuse box:
View attachment 842719
I decided to try pulling fuse F103, listed as ABS Valves. I did this while the car was still on, with the door open, but I had gotten out of the driver's seat so the car said "Car Off." upon putting my foot back on the brake, about half of these warnings appeared, and the rest appeared immediately upon starting to move the car. The car had no regen, seemed to put more power down at lower speed instead of limiting power all the way to 40mph, and the power steering was substantially limited, but seemed still to be doing something, because I wouldn't expect to be able to move the wheel of a stationary 4800lb car without it. The car allowed some wheel spin, but was still hopping in turns and wouldn't kick the back end out more than 20-30 degrees at most, with full steering lock. Very loud, and enough to burn some tires, but really not all that exciting. (This was all on dry pavement using a puddle to wet the tires.) Notably absent from the list of errors was "Traction control disabled." I saw stability control disabled after pulling the fuse and decided we were good to go, but it seems possible that the traction control was still partially on, limiting the wheel spin and causing the wheel hopping. My goal is to make this 400hp AWD monster do a clean doughnut on dry pavement, and this was a step in the right direction, but not enough. Next time I will see if I can turn on "Slip Start" in conjunction with this or also pull fuse F151 listed as "ABS Pump motor".
View attachment 842721
For those worried about needing a service center visit afterwards, I did not. I got out of the car, let the screens turn off, and replaced the fuse. Once I got back in the car all the lights turned off except for the warnings "Power braking assist reduced," which didn't seem to actually be the case, and the warning "Automatic emergency braking disabled". I might have noticed a slightly different brake pedal feel, but it was minor enough it could have easily been placebo. I drove about 3 miles to drop someone off, and by his point I was stressing out about those last two warnings, but before I went into my friend's house to say hi to some of his family, I hit the "power off" button on the center screen. When I came back to the car after about 5-10 minutes, the last warnings had disappeared. As always when messing with your car like this I suggest turning off "Data sharing" before you try this.

These were my overall findings when trying this fuse, and although I wouldn't say just because I didn't need a service center visit afterwards, doesn't mean there isn't some risk (beyond the obvious of hitting a curb or light post in a parking lot.) If pulling the second fuse works to my satisfaction, I may consider putting in a relay and a traction control switch in the cabin, to avoid having to get out of the car to disable / enable traction control. I will also keep this thread up to date if I get any ABS related errors in the future that don't have an obvious cause, or that could be related to this, although it seemed to work quite well and once I let the car restart everything seemed fine software wise.

I hope someone else finds this information useful.

Any updates on this? Did you pull the second fuse? Any future issues? I was thinking of running a traction control relay button inside the car from the fuse if this was to work.
 
Any updates on this? Did you pull the second fuse? Any future issues? I was thinking of running a traction control relay button inside the car from the fuse if this was to work.
Didn't try anything further, the 1200$ tire bill after that convinced me that it's a bad idea, and leaves me waiting until winter. I'll get back to you once it snows here