Radar Detector for the Model X

[emakessense]

Myblubu,

I've wanted to wire my V1 exactly how you did. Can't find anyone comfortable doing it, they say Tesla doesn't release fuse diagrams and amount of power to/from the mirror, etc. Concern is that the detector will draw too much power and cause an issue with the camera, computer or worse. I ordered the parts you suggested, have them now and want to try this myself. Could you take a picture with the plastic cover off so I can see what wires you tapped into? Appreciate everything you've shared, thank you. I'm new to the forum and haven't added a pic...will do soon.

 

[myblubu]

Myblubu,

I've wanted to wire my V1 exactly how you did. Can't find anyone comfortable doing it, they say Tesla doesn't release fuse diagrams and amount of power to/from the mirror, etc. Concern is that the detector will draw too much power and cause an issue with the camera, computer or worse. I ordered the parts you suggested, have them now and want to try this myself. Could you take a picture with the plastic cover off so I can see what wires you tapped into? Appreciate everything you've shared, thank you. I'm new to the forum and haven't added a pic...will do soon.

I've already snapped everything back together on my install so I wouldn't be able to get you pics of the everything with the plastic cover off. The cover is difficult to get off, I used a little hook tool to pull down on the front area to work it loose. I have read how others have used a plastic pry tool to do the same. Where I got most of my info and pictures on how things looked before I started was the dash cam install thread. Here is a link with pictures: Dashcam installation – Tesla Model X | satheesh.net

When you take the bottom cover off, you will see a connector with 3 wires, red, black, yellow on one side and red, black, green on the other. I used a multi-meter to measure each and found that the red was + and black was ground. So I plugged into those and it worked great. Can't comment on the current draw for the detector, but i think it's minimal. At least, I haven't had any issues with any of the items you mentioned.

Hope that helps.

 

[Keiki]

Did anyone have to rewire the obd connecter to get the 12 volts? In the same vein, does the ez pass work through the windshield?

 

[mal_tsla]

I've measured the Escort 9500 IX current draw at 1amp or less, or about 10W

 

[mal_tsla]

I've already snapped everything back together on my install so I wouldn't be able to get you pics of the everything with the plastic cover off. The cover is difficult to get off, I used a little hook tool to pull down on the front area to work it loose. I have read how others have used a plastic pry tool to do the same. Where I got most of my info and pictures on how things looked before I started was the dash cam install thread. Here is a link with pictures: Dashcam installation – Tesla Model X | satheesh.net

When you take the bottom cover off, you will see a connector with 3 wires, red, black, yellow on one side and red, black, green on the other. I used a multi-meter to measure each and found that the red was + and black was ground. So I plugged into those and it worked great. Can't comment on the current draw for the detector, but i think it's minimal. At least, I haven't had any issues with any of the items you mentioned.

Hope that helps.

What kind of pry tool did you use? Did you have to remove the whole housing or just the rear cover? Can you give any more details that might be helpful. I'd like to do this as well but had no luck removing any of those parts last I tried.

 

[myblubu]

What kind of pry tool did you use? Did you have to remove the whole housing or just the rear cover? Can you give any more details that might be helpful. I'd like to do this as well but had no luck removing any of those parts last I tried.

I got most of my info on how those plastic housing pieces are attached from a few dash cam threads.

When I started the project, I didn't have any of the plastic pry tools mentioned by others in the dash cam install threads, so I tried removing that bottom portion of the trim (in front of the rear view mirror) by hand with no success. I was going to order a set of the plastic pry tools, but decided to give one of the mini hooks I already had a try (Mini Pick and Hook Set 4 Pc) I took the curved one and placed the hook in the seam between that piece and the piece above on one of the front corners and pulled down ... I heard a 'click' and noticed that corner had come loose.

You can see the corner I'm talking about in @halg 's video at about the 2:30 mark, see post #1 in this thread: Model X Dash Cam Unboxing and Installation

I did the other corner then worked the rest of it off by hand. It worked well - No broken tabs! The problem was getting the first of the 'tabs' to unlock from the other piece - once one was free, the rest went pretty easily. It took a bit of force to get the first one free, though - it felt like I was on the verge of breaking a tab off, but it worked out fine.

I didn't have to remove the larger plastic housing that's closer to the windshield which covers the camera. However, I chose to run my power wire between that piece and the windshield in the front, so while I had the smaller cover off, it was easy to pull down on that larger housing along the front and create a small gap that was large enough to pass the portion of my power wire between that larger housing and the windshield. I think that larger piece is easy to remove, though, I think there are only 2 clips - one on each side toward the rear. But I just decided to snake the wire through the front and not remove it. After getting the wire through, I looked at it through the front of the windshield and noticed part of the wire was visible in the area of the camera, so I adjusted it to fix that and applied a little upward pressure on front of that large housing piece (pressing it onto the windshield) to make the gap created by the wire was small as possible - turned out nice, I don't even notice a gap after the install.

I chose to run the wire between the windshield and the plastic housing instead of cutting a hole/notch in the smaller housing so I could un-install everything and put it back to original if I needed to - so I didn't want to modify any of the parts.

Hope that helps!

 

[cinqg]

Just pried off the lower piece of the rear view mirror with a knife blade to get it started and it came off very easily, then the mirror electric connection is right there with red black and yellow wires , used the red and black for the connection with the quick connect wire 12" that taps right into the back end of the connector to the mirror electric, and voila two cable ties to hold it firmly in place and in case the radar detector comes off the windshield to hold it securley. Total time 15 minutes and the last 5 minutes was trying to get the cover back on. I did do a small notch on the pass side of the plastic piece for my power wire to pass thru. So far comes on with car and goes off when car is off so perfect and now no long dangly cord and no long run up windshield then tucking cord all the way to lower kick panel to use an OBD tap for power there, this was so much easier and simple to do. Good luck ! I installed a Bel V1 but also us an Escort Max 9500..............and yes it works perfectly in my X and did not work at all in my S.

 

[Crackem]

What is best way to have a 9500 ix installed? I want to be able to mute it fast when I hear a false alarm. I bought the smart cord for my installer but I want to make sure that's the best way to go and not have it wired to the mirror.

 

[Mr. Monday]

Same here, I had put my V1 on the shelf after trying it in my Model S, but after reading a post on how it should work in the Model X, I gave it a try, and it works well. I just used the suction cups to test it for a while and after I verified it worked, I ordered a blendmount (I thought it was a little expensive, but I was well pleased with the quality - plus I found a 12% offf coupon).

I also purchased a power cord to get switched power from the mirror from RadarMount.com - it was inexpensive and worked great (15% off coupon too).

Thanks to the forum members for tips on how to remove the plastic trim around the mirror so I could fish the power wire through! Lots of tips were in the forum on installing dash cams. Thansk @Nerdy_Engineer - Also, @satheesh.net has good step by step instructions for taking the plastic trim off - Thanks!

Looks good and works great!

Sorry for reviving an old thread. I want to copy your method here. I did some research on dash cam installations and they all run wires down the conduit that connects the rearview mirror to the headliner. Isn't it possible to tap power directly from the mirror? Is that what you did here? It's a little vague.

 

[Mr. Monday]

Sorry for reviving an old thread. I want to copy your method here. I did some research on dash cam installations and they all run wires down the conduit that connects the rearview mirror to the headliner. Isn't it possible to tap power directly from the mirror? Is that what you did here? It's a little vague.

Never-mind, didn't see there was a second page. I need to sleep

 

[Mr. Monday]

I got most of my info on how those plastic housing pieces are attached from a few dash cam threads.

When I started the project, I didn't have any of the plastic pry tools mentioned by others in the dash cam install threads, so I tried removing that bottom portion of the trim (in front of the rear view mirror) by hand with no success. I was going to order a set of the plastic pry tools, but decided to give one of the mini hooks I already had a try (Mini Pick and Hook Set 4 Pc) I took the curved one and placed the hook in the seam between that piece and the piece above on one of the front corners and pulled down ... I heard a 'click' and noticed that corner had come loose.

You can see the corner I'm talking about in @halg 's video at about the 2:30 mark, see post #1 in this thread: Model X Dash Cam Unboxing and Installation

I did the other corner then worked the rest of it off by hand. It worked well - No broken tabs! The problem was getting the first of the 'tabs' to unlock from the other piece - once one was free, the rest went pretty easily. It took a bit of force to get the first one free, though - it felt like I was on the verge of breaking a tab off, but it worked out fine.

I didn't have to remove the larger plastic housing that's closer to the windshield which covers the camera. However, I chose to run my power wire between that piece and the windshield in the front, so while I had the smaller cover off, it was easy to pull down on that larger housing along the front and create a small gap that was large enough to pass the portion of my power wire between that larger housing and the windshield. I think that larger piece is easy to remove, though, I think there are only 2 clips - one on each side toward the rear. But I just decided to snake the wire through the front and not remove it. After getting the wire through, I looked at it through the front of the windshield and noticed part of the wire was visible in the area of the camera, so I adjusted it to fix that and applied a little upward pressure on front of that large housing piece (pressing it onto the windshield) to make the gap created by the wire was small as possible - turned out nice, I don't even notice a gap after the install.

I chose to run the wire between the windshield and the plastic housing instead of cutting a hole/notch in the smaller housing so I could un-install everything and put it back to original if I needed to - so I didn't want to modify any of the parts.

Hope that helps!

Where did you get the RVM cable? I'm wondering if this one will work: Braided Mirror Power Cord for Beltronics / Escort / Uniden / V1 Radar Detectors 813296012967 | eBay

 

[myblubu]

Where did you get the RVM cable? I'm wondering if this one will work: Braided Mirror Power Cord for Beltronics / Escort / Uniden / V1 Radar Detectors 813296012967 | eBay

See post #17 in this thread for details on the one I bought. I can’t remember how much I paid for mine, but it looks similar to the one you are considering.

 

[HadoukenZR]

Reviving this thread again. Pretty limited threads on V1 hardwire for Model X.

Attempted the hardwire install last night. Saw the same 3 wires (red, yellow, black) on the receiving connector and used a multi-meter to test it out.

Case 1: At first I connected it to black and yellow and saw that it was measuring >13v constant power whether car was on or off.

Case 2: Also tested the Red and black wire and found 0v reading whether car was on or off. (very odd?)

It seems in both cases I could not get the V1 radar to power on whether car was off or on. Any ideas?


To troubleshoot I confirmed the mirror tap cord and V1 radar does work in my other car.

 

[HadoukenZR]

Reviving this thread again. Pretty limited threads on V1 hardwire for Model X.

Attempted the hardwire install last night. Saw the same 3 wires (red, yellow, black) on the receiving connector and used a multi-meter to test it out.

Case 1: At first I connected it to black and yellow and saw that it was measuring >13v constant power whether car was on or off.

Case 2: Also tested the Red and black wire and found 0v reading whether car was on or off. (very odd?)

It seems in both cases I could not get the V1 radar to power on whether car was off or on. Any ideas?


To troubleshoot I confirmed the mirror tap cord and V1 radar does work in my other car.

Just for future owner reference. My issue was root caused to a blown fuse tied to my tire TPMS sensors. It's very likely that fuse was blown due to my blackvue dash cam. More digging to find out how this happened since it was professionally installed by Johnny @ Calibred Customs. Not sure if this is a common issue or not?

Anyway after Tesla service replaced that fuse while diagnosing my TPMS issue the red wire now shows 12V+ power when car is on and no power when car is off. V1 radar now works perfectly !

 

[Thekuai]

Going through this now. The vanity mirror, tpms, radio? and rear view mirror are all on a 5A micro3 fuse: F236. This portion of the fuse was blown Its a 3 prong 2in1 fuse. The other half of the fuse is for the steering angle/column. I flipped the fuse over and the tpms light went away, the vanity mirror lights worked. A whole plethora of errors appeared because now the steering angle/ column is on the blown part of the fuse. I am going to replace this fuse.


But even though the TPMS light went away (and received a TPMS reset is complete message on the MCU) and vanity mirror lights work now the blackvue dashcam that I mirrortapped still won't power up. I voltmeter tested the dc barrel plug that goes into the dashcam and it gets a steady 13-14v. It even had power before the fuse blew out. I plugged the front dashcam into the rear dashcam plug that plugs into the 12v in the rear and it powers up fine. I took the rear dashcam and brought it up front and it won't power up either.

Any ideas?