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Rear Camber arms option - Hardrace

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Going to tackle the Hard Race install with adj toe arms in a few weeks on my X. I do intend to go at the initial 290mm with the arms and checking camber using the digital measure mentioned earlier in this thread. I will def take the car to a very local (<1m) alignment shop to set the toe, since that's a bit of a bear to do myself without a lift, but my question is - is there a similar standard measurement I should aim to adjust the new toe arms to for that short drive ? Or should I just mimic the OEM length to get me down the street (I got the car adjusted at Tesla only 3 months ago).
 
Installing this weekend. This might be a stupid question but as long as I measure the height of the wheel hub when in low (my desired suspension height for the alignment to follow) and subsequently lift the suspension with my jack when tightening/measuring camber on the rotors as recommended here, should there be any reason why I can't initially put the suspension higher to allow my rather beefy jack stands more room under the car? I'll be in jack mode. @gearchruncher you seem like the expert here
 
I think you'll have a very hard time getting one corner to "low" ride height if the rest of the air suspension is on high. You'd just need to compress that corner way too much, and it would likely lift the other corners off the ground. And you don't want to lower the air suspension while it's on stands.

Personally I just jack up that one corner of the car and take the tire off, and work from outside the car and never get under it. I put a wood block under the suspension arms and lower it onto that block when I need to compress the suspension and make a measurement. If you have a second jack you can use that here too.
 
I think you'll have a very hard time getting one corner to "low" ride height if the rest of the air suspension is on high. You'd just need to compress that corner way too much, and it would likely lift the other corners off the ground. And you don't want to lower the air suspension while it's on stands.

Personally I just jack up that one corner of the car and take the tire off, and work from outside the car and never get under it. I put a wood block under the suspension arms and lower it onto that block when I need to compress the suspension and make a measurement. If you have a second jack you can use that here too.
Thanks for taking the time to reply. If I understand correctly, it'll be best to just put car in low, turn on jack mode, and go from there? I intend to put the rear on jack stands so I can work on both sides. I intend to use my jack to compress the suspension to the pre measured low height so I can tighten (but not fully torque) and use your guidance to measure camber using the level previously recomended here.
 
Do one side at a time. No reason to get the whole rear axle up at once. In fact, this makes setting the camber a lot harder and less accurate.

Jack one side
Remove wheel
Install Camber arm
Lower control arm onto block or jack to set height same as with wheel on
Adjust camber
Re-jack up
Install wheel

Repeat.
 
Do one side at a time. No reason to get the whole rear axle up at once. In fact, this makes setting the camber a lot harder and less accurate.

Jack one side
Remove wheel
Install Camber arm
Lower control arm onto block or jack to set height same as with wheel on
Adjust camber
Re-jack up
Install wheel

Repeat.
If Im using a jack stand there's no reason I can't jack UP the control arm vs lowering the car onto a block or second jack? Zeroing out the digital angle finder in the trunk floor first.
 
If Im using a jack stand there's no reason I can't jack UP the control arm vs lowering the car onto a block or second jack? Zeroing out the digital angle finder in the trunk floor first.
You can, but I much prefer to have 3 wheels on the ground as I'm jacking up the suspension on the 4th, rather than only 2 and the other side on a stand or jack.

Also, when you do this the other axle will be lower than the one you are measuring, and the sway bar will be transferring some force across the axle. Generally you want to align with as little abnormal load on the suspension as possible.
 
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You can, but I much prefer to have 3 wheels on the ground as I'm jacking up the suspension on the 4th, rather than only 2 and the other side on a stand or jack.

Also, when you do this the other axle will be lower than the one you are measuring, and the sway bar will be transferring some force across the axle. Generally you want to align with as little abnormal load on the suspension as possible.
Cool. I'll do 1 side at a time, with the jack stand, using the jack itself to lift the suspension.

Appreciate you man, thanks for this thread and ongoing thoughtful responses to all our questions
 
I'm hesitant to support the car with 3ton jack while I install both camber and toe arms. Is there any issues using a jack stand and then compressing the suspension using the jack for tightening and measuring camber? I guess I can tighten with this method then swap jack stand for jack when measuring and setting camber if we think that will be more accurate?
 
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Finally installed and aligned (stock LOW setting). Install wasn't particularly difficult at all but it was time consuming. Maybe me and my friends are slow. Went to a specialty alignment shop and they did have to redo my rear camber anyways. Apparently I goofed it up even with the digital angle tool mentioned in this thread. Probably because I lifted the suspension up vs dropping the car down. I just didn't have the ability to do it that way safely with the equipment on hand. He charged me $50 extra so I'm not crying about it. I also had them add a bit of "whatever" to account for the road crowns here. The x was pulling slightly right and I hate that feeling. Anyways just wanna say thanks for everyone on this thread. It helped me save money, get the car the way I want it, and diy it without dying. Btw I had a -2 left, -1 right camber on the rear after my recent Tesla alignment on medium. So that was bad news.
 
I have 2018 model s with sport package
Rear tire 265/35/21
Front tire 245/35/21

I also have premature inner treadwear problem ,which also include front tires but more severe on rear tires.

I am considering installing these hardrace cam arms for rear tire without toe links.My recent aligment data as shown.

Any recommendations on what to do with front aligment setting ,as I understand only toe setting can be adjusted on front.
Thank you.
 

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While searching for hardrace camber arms,I found these on aliexpress.Has anyone used it or any thoughts or comments about quality of this product.​

OPASS Adjustable Rear upper Camber Control arm For Tesla Model S & Model X 1021418-00-A​

Hard race is a reputable company, and the price is right. I would not personally trust any of these odd brand ones on Ali express.
 
Most people don't try to run zero camber.
If you run around 0.5 degrees, you can usually get away with the stock toe adjustment system.
This is for modelx .Any suggestions for 2018 model s. Should I aim for around 290 mm for camber around 0.5 and use stock toe adjustment.
I just ordered hardrace cam arms . Hoping to avoid getting adjustable toe links.
Thank you