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Rear Camber arms option - Hardrace

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Inner, outer is lack of camber and compounded by pressures being too high.

Hence the word inner used.
I hope you can see why your overly simple, absolute statements aren't very helpful for people to understand:

1) "Toe" causes inner tire wear. Never camber
2) Lack of camber causes outer tire wear., plus too high pressures.

Yet... These facts exist:
1) Model S/X cars run a lot of camber in the front, not the rear
2) Model S/X cars often see extreme innner tire wear that fails the tire long before the tread is worn. But only on the rear where there is more camber.
3) Model 3/Y runs less camber all around and doesn't see inner tire wear.
4) All Teslas run fairly high pressures.

I'm not arguing with you that toe tends to be the dominant wear on tires on street cars. But it would be helpful for you to explain to people more why this is instead of just telling them they are wrong.

Given you run a lot of camber on your "SX" - what toe and camber are you running that has led to even wear? Across how many miles?
 
I hope you can see why your overly simple, absolute statements aren't very helpful for people to understand:

1) "Toe" causes inner tire wear. Never camber
2) Lack of camber causes outer tire wear., plus too high pressures.

Yet... These facts exist:
1) Model S/X cars run a lot of camber in the front, not the rear
2) Model S/X cars often see extreme innner tire wear that fails the tire long before the tread is worn. But only on the rear where there is more camber.
3) Model 3/Y runs less camber all around and doesn't see inner tire wear.
4) All Teslas run fairly high pressures.

I'm not arguing with you that toe tends to be the dominant wear on tires on street cars. But it would be helpful for you to explain to people more why this is instead of just telling them they are wrong.

Given you run a lot of camber on your "SX" - what toe and camber are you running that has led to even wear? Across how many miles?
My S and X are aligned at driveheight, auto adjustment disabled. Zero toe all around, camber in the rear on the S around the 1.5 range. x roughly the same camber, same toe settings. This is a thing with any adjustable suspension car, allowing the suspension to cycle doesn’t mean anything when you have the car set to lower at X MPH. S-30k miles, X- 15k miles, all spent towing ~4600lbs.

Our 3s are setup for road racing, but absolutely pull daily duty at well below 100mm pack clearance. Max front camber from a company’s arms that has an owner that has an absolutely crappy version of (customer) personal privacy. Front Toe zero. Rear above -2deg. Slight Toe in. Square tire sizes so they can be rotated front to back, but a 100tw tire for all track events, all seasons on the street. Flipped front to back as needed to keep wear “even” streets usually every 10k miles, Rcomps so often I don’t care to think about it. There’s a reason 16 r comps are on hand all the time, heavy car, low pressures, lots of abuse. One 3 driven 61.5k miles this way, road-tripped across the country regularly. The other has less than 5k driven this way.

It’s the internet, over simplication and blanket statements are easier than talking to a brick wall.

All bmws have experienced rear toe wear, exactly what S/X see, this is a byproduct of the company wanting their (mostly) incapable <of driving/catching a car in a slide> owners to be able to continue purchasing a new model car.

E60M5, E39M5 and most M cars are setup to chew tires and not their owners. The S/X are setup roughly the same, compounded by the air suspension and owners not disabling their auto height adjustment.

Re the pressure comment, street pressures don’t count towards my reply to your track statement.
Your 1 and 2 contradict themselves, I assume you know that.
Your 3 proves my point, in factory settings. Mine have never been factory settings under my ownership nor with my tire choice.

I’ll continue this offline with you, but my contributions to this thread will end with this post.
 
Did the install today and just got it back from the alignment shop.

I am personally very pleased with the results. These are my numbers now for standard ride height with the Hardrace Camber arms and stock Toe arms:

Left: -0.8 Camber, 0.14 Toe
Right: -0.8 Camber, 0.33 Toe

The right side Toe number is a bit more than I wanted but the shop first tried to give it back to me with Camber set at -2 after I explained the number I was going for so I'll take what I can get.

Anyone have thoughts on trading a few 10ths on the camber to bring the toe a little more neutral?
 
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Just an update on the HardRace rear camber arms I installed earlier this year.
2500mi in and no problems so far.
I installed the Hardrace Camber arms on my 2012 Signature with air suspension. I tried to attach the alignment printout .jpg, but I keep getting " A server error occured. Please try again later."

Before:
Left Camber: -1.62*
Left Toe: -0.2mm
Rt Camber: -2.09*
Rt Toe: -0.4mm

After:
Left Camber: -1.09*
Left Toe: 1.4mm
Rt Camber: -1.07*
Rt Toe: 1.4mm
Just an update on the HardRace rear camber arms I installed earlier this year.
2500mi in and no problems so far.
 
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I completed the install with 290mm preset, 2017 MX 75D with Suspension lowered using lowering links (Consider Now Standard setting is actually Low setting). Install was pretty easy around 20 mins per side DIY. Had to max out the Toe bolt to make it derivable to the alignment shop. I guess i finally did some adjustments later to keep the length around 288 mm. Just came out from alignment...Here is the spec. Seems pretty good..
1692413941570.png
 
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the n2itive toe arms came with the extra bolt but I was able to get my bolts out without having to cut them off or drop the battery/subframe. There's only 1 bolt on each side that's really the problem. The key is to disconnect the outter most bolt so you have some freedom to try to massage the back bolt out. If you know the part number you can request it thru the 'service' request in the app.
 
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Cut 9 out, replace the correct way as the tesla service manual states. 🤷🏿‍♂️

Simple stuff.
I was prepaired to cut mine out but it just took a few min to get my existing ones out & flip around. Then there was no need to use the expensive blades I bought and metal shards to clean up. I'd say just be ready worse case scenario to cut them out but can't hurt to try to get out without cutting its possible in some cases.
 
I realize that I am probably lowered more than most, but can someone recommend any front camber solutions? The alignment shop said the best they could do was -2.02 and -1.96 degrees of front camber (+0.10 total toe). My front fender arches are approximately 675mm from the ground. Should I try a different alignment shop or purchase an adjustable A arm like this?

1696390052117.png


As for the rear, the adjustable Hardrace camber/toe arms worked out nicely.
1696388817163.png
 
Less camber and running 2.5% smaller tires front and rear (255/35/20, 285/30/20). I am running smaller tires because I think it looks much better IMO.

20x9 et29, 255/35/20
20x10 et40, 285/30/20

In the rear, I was running 295/30/20 with a 7mm spacer, but after reducing my rear camber from -2.1 degrees to -0.71, I will probably remove the 7mm spacer and run slightly smaller 285/30/20s.

For the fronts, I am currently running a 15mm spacer with the -2.0 degrees of camber. If I can achieve -1.0 with the adjustable front A arms, I will probably need to remove or adjust the front spacer.
 
There's no issue with 2.0 degrees- it's better for performance, and with zero toe your wear will be fine. Lots of us that race run 3.0+ all the time on the street. But for sure you don't need the camber with those tire sizes- some of us have to keep our camber up with wide tires.

If you really want to get the camber out, most of the stuff on the market is only designed to increase camber, but some of them like the one you found should allow you to decrease camber.

The Megan/TruHart/Hardrace ones you found will do that. I run them and have found they work well.
The Redwood and Unplugged camber arms share a similar design and likely can increase camber as well, but you should check with them to make sure the threads are long enough to increase not just decrease.

Be aware that the Megan/Truhart/Hardrace ones are a pain to adjust, you have to take them off to adjust, which may cost a lot if you're paying someone to do an alignment. The other designs are a lot better in this regard.

Oh, and there is no functional stock adjustment for camber. You do have to use some sort of adjustable aftermarket arm.
 
There's no issue with 2.0 degrees- it's better for performance, and with zero toe your wear will be fine. Lots of us that race run 3.0+ all the time on the street. But for sure you don't need the camber with those tire sizes- some of us have to keep our camber up with wide tires.
Thanks for the information. I really appreciate it. I'll definitely hold off any changes to the front suspension for now.
 
Anyone need 25mm spacers for a MS? I put some one after doing the hardrace arms and due to lowering and new alignment specs, they very slightly rub the felt liner at full compression. These should be great for anyone on 19" wheels or not lowered on 21s.

Please PM me with any questions or interest.
 
Thinking of pulling the trigger on the Hardrace camber arms so that I can run my Model x in low to preserve newly warrantied half shafts while keeping rear tire wear in check. Given the below recent alignment by geniuses at Tesla, do you think I'll need adj toe arms as well @gearchruncher ?

1000008872.jpg
 
Thinking of pulling the trigger on the Hardrace camber arms so that I can run my Model x in low to preserve newly warrantied half shafts while keeping rear tire wear in check. Given the below recent alignment by geniuses at Tesla, do you think I'll need adj toe arms as well @gearchruncher ?

View attachment 993976
I would get them just to eliminate that cross camber in the rear