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Rear Tire Inside Wear

Any Model S Owners Experience Severe Rear Tire Wear and What Was The Outcome? (Installed snows)

  • Tesla Performed Alignment and fixed the problem at no cost

    Votes: 2 7.1%
  • Tesla replaced the tire at no cost

    Votes: 2 7.1%
  • Tesla Charged for the alignment

    Votes: 9 32.1%
  • Tesla Charged for the replacement tire

    Votes: 8 28.6%
  • I never had (or have not checked) inner tire wear!

    Votes: 12 42.9%

  • Total voters
    28
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Others have noted, and I can confirm, that the normal negative camber range and air suspension have very little to do with extreme wear and "corded" inner shoulders of the tires.


In my case, it was negative camber. My first set of tires last a long time with -1.3 on both sides but by the time my second set arrived, camber had sagged to -1.7 and by the time they wore to the cord on the inside, my camber had sagged to -2.1 on each side.

I've since corrected that with a set of BBC Speed Machine custom adjustable upper links.
 
In my experience excessive tire wear is always a toe problem. In fact toe-in is set so that when road forces at speed push the wheels apart, the resulting toe is neutral. The suspension moves when under load at highway speeds so the correct toe-in needs to be set for that change in geometry. I would record the toe-in setting and watch tire wear. There is no reason not to have a custom toe setting for your car is that's what it takes.

A pro alignment shop will know what to do.

On the AWD cars, you want to get as close to zero total toe as possible although the spec still requires positive total toe. The AWD cars turn off the rear drive when cruising on the freeway so you don't have the rear wheels pushing the car...rather you have the car pulling the rear wheels instead. I had my total toe set to 0.20 on my last alignment after I installed my adjustable upper links.
 
Two years ago I had all 4 aligned to lolachampcar's recommendation. (At Les Schwab) No problem with tires. Rear camber is -1.7* and I haven't bought the corrective links yet.

The front was set to tesla specs
-0.70 Camber
3.55 Caster
-0.04 Toe

Rear was set as follows
0.15 Toe

He says rear camber -1.10*.
 
I just brought our 2018 Model x to a tire shop to fix the nail in the rear tire, and they found the inner treads to be worn out, which is unusual for a car barely one year old. Would doing an alignment fix this issue after both tires replaced?
 
Performance + suspension on 21" tires at lowest suspension setting wears the tires like this. There are alignment settings to improve it, and there used to be products to help make it go away, but that company no longer sells them.

It's normal wear for Tesla. They go through tires quickly especially if you have this combination.
 
I just brought our 2018 Model x to a tire shop to fix the nail in the rear tire, and they found the inner treads to be worn out, which is unusual for a car barely one year old. Would doing an alignment fix this issue after both tires replaced?

If you're interested, I have a brand new set of adjustable bushings for sale that will fix the problem. It fits both S and X.
Model S Adjustable Bushings NIB
 
Replaced mine last week to keep with the general theme...
 

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Well, no abnormal wear noticed until January when I had to replace a broken subframe and have the rear realigned at the SC. 3000mi later and I am to the cords on the inner shoulders of both rear tires. Seems that Tesla's alignment specifications for the cars with air suspension don't account for anything but the tires in the standard position. I have the car at the Plano, TX SC now for new tires (10k total miles on the trashed ones, all noticeable wear in the last 3k), an alignment, and an MCU1 failure. They act like they have never seen this wear pattern before, nor heard of it. I have requested they test the alignment in high, standard, and low before they release it to me to ensure one it remains in spec through the suspension range. Should know more early next week. If it is helpful info I'll add to this thread...
 
I got mine aligned at SC when I bought it in 2017. 6 months later, RR blew. SC denied it was their fault. I called Tesla. After a couple of people , one guys asked if I had auto lowering ON? I said yes, set at 70 mph. He said turn it off. He said the car was not alinging properly when it lowered. I asked how much it cost to to fix it? He didn't know.
I have not had the problem in 50k miles. How weird is that. I reckon my antique was built before the engineers figured it would happen when u drop the car.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: RabidYak
I got mine aligned at SC when I bought it in 2017. 6 months later, RR blew. SC denied it was their fault. I called Tesla. After a couple of people , one guys asked if I had auto lowering ON? I said yes, set at 70 mph. He said turn it off. He said the car was not alinging properly when it lowered. I asked how much it cost to to fix it? He didn't know.
I have not had the problem in 50k miles. How weird is that. I reckon my antique was built before the engineers figured it would happen when u drop the car.

Just spoke with SC.
They inspected my subframe for deformation and correct torque specs throughout. No issues.
They inspected my tires and found the wear was even across them other than the inner shoulders being worn identically on both sides.
Basically, they recommend only drive with the car lowered in performance situations and NEVER in long highway travel to avoid this kind of wear do to the alteration in the vehicle's camber.

1. Definitely need something like that denoted in the User Manual.
2. I'm pretty sure we were advised to drive with the car in low at highway speeds to reduce drag and improve range here: Range Tips

Tesla is denying any help on the tire or alignment costs. Probably to avoid a precedent that could get expensive, but the reality is I did what the company advised and it ultimately destroyed my tires. I'll try again when I go pick it up.
 
  • Informative
Reactions: Chaserr
would just add the tire pressure is important too.

Across 3 different MS I have found to run the Michelin PSS (both 245 and 265) at 45psi (cold) and have had surprisingly even tire wear all round. Run the rears low though and they can trash the inner shoulder like some of the pics above in <5K miles.
 
would just add the tire pressure is important too.

Across 3 different MS I have found to run the Michelin PSS (both 245 and 265) at 45psi (cold) and have had surprisingly even tire wear all round. Run the rears low though and they can trash the inner shoulder like some of the pics above in <5K miles.
also, make sure you have a very good and reputable air pressure gauge and check frequently
 
Joined the club today. Could have been bad. I will get the alignment checked previous sets wore fine. I have staggered 21in
Also will turn off auto lowering and keep the pressure jacked up to 45. I never let mine get below 40psi. Tough as thin as they are with temp changes. These are too damn expensive. Crazy how they were so flat across the face then the edge is gone. usually with this you would see some slope to the tread wear across the face. Ill be curious to see if the rear alignment geometry has changed.

If its the auto lowering I'm gonna be pissed.
 

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In my case, it was negative camber. My first set of tires last a long time with -1.3 on both sides but by the time my second set arrived, camber had sagged to -1.7 and by the time they wore to the cord on the inside, my camber had sagged to -2.1 on each side.

I've since corrected that with a set of BBC Speed Machine custom adjustable upper links.
I did the same thing. no issues since