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Repairing a Flooded Tesla Model S : HOW-TO

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I expect that he got in this early enough that he was able to get the two totaled cars cheap enough that his net cost will be very low after selling all of the extra parts. (Well unless you think his time is worth anything.) :)
OTOH the first time you do this stuff you tend to make lots of mistakes. That's why I'm surprised he's gotten this far. When I was breaking my parts car (disassembling), try as I might, I busted every single part of the pano roof frame trying to get it out to sell. It is all glued in with Hell-adhesive. I wanted to sell the frame and the two pieces of glass -- busted them all, and dented the B-pillar roof-frame which I want to sell. As a bonus I busted the rear quarter-glass trying to get that out too, which was spectacular as it's tempered. (as opposed to the hatch glass, which splinters into a million face-tearing needle-shards)
 
How much reprogramming was needed to make the parts from two cars play together?

This is the moral dilemma at hand. I could of easily (not really that easy but I figured it out) swapped electronics from the low mile white P85 to my flooded black S85 and called it a day, but what mileage should be shown? The shell has 40k miles but every piece of electronic equipment from the drive unit to the battery pack, wiring harness and seats only have 20k, so really how many miles does the car have on it? In this case is it ok to have the odometer read 20k? Also is my car REALLY a P85? Can I sell it as such?


I'm all ears as to anyone's opinion on this
 
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may you elaborate how much money you spent on this project already and what you expect to invest further? Would be interesting if this is just for the fun, or if you can really save a dollar or two on it.

The flooded car was about 14k
The wrecked white p85 was about 14k as well

28k total (financial investment, labor is another story)

I was able to save 12 battery modules from the flooded car and sold them for around 8,000

That brings me to 20k

I sold the flooded drive unit (which I think was fine so someone got a DEAL) for 3500

Now 16,500

I did the breakdown a while back but I'm not into this for much coin
 
This is the moral dilemma at hand. I could of easily (not really that easy but I figured it out) swapped electronics from the low mile white P85 to my flooded black S85 and called it a day, but what mileage should be shown? The shell has 40k miles but every piece of electronic equipment from the drive unit to the battery pack, wiring harness and seats only have 20k, so really how many miles does the car have on it? In this case is it ok to have the odometer read 20k? Also is my car REALLY a P85? Can I sell it as such?


I'm all ears as to anyone's opinion on this
Let's say you put the computer from a low-mileage car into a rebuilt car that had a lot of miles on it. Typically, there is a place on a title where you can disclose that the mileage shown on the odometer differs from the actual miles. It is not a problem if you disclose it.

On the P85 vs S85 question, this seems analogous to the case where you take a car with a big engine that has been blown, and then install a slightly smaller new engine into it. It should not be a problem if you disclose it.
 
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This is the moral dilemma at hand. I could of easily (not really that easy but I figured it out) swapped electronics from the low mile white P85 to my flooded black S85 and called it a day, but what mileage should be shown? The shell has 40k miles but every piece of electronic equipment from the drive unit to the battery pack, wiring harness and seats only have 20k, so really how many miles does the car have on it? In this case is it ok to have the odometer read 20k? Also is my car REALLY a P85? Can I sell it as such?


I'm all ears as to anyone's opinion on this

Isn't the fact that it's a salvage title and supercharging-disabled enough of a hit [ to the value of the car ] that the other factors won't matter as much (but do disclose it all the same)?
 
.... When I was breaking my parts car (disassembling), try as I might, I busted every single part of the pano roof frame trying to get it out to sell........ I- busted them all, and dented the B-pillar roof-frame which I want to sell. As a bonus I busted the rear quarter-glass trying to get that out too, which was spectacular.......


Are you a silverback gorilla?
 
No more like a wolverine, but it was a hellatious process. I came to the conclusions that, a) You have to have done it before, and b) You need their "hydro{something}" tool, whatever that is, and all its attachments. I mounted a putty knife to a sawzall and it was able to cut the glue, but I didn't know where glue ended and metal/plastic frame began, and my blade was thick and wouldn't bend 45 degrees, so I tore it all up. In the trash with all the pano fixin's. My parts car was a convertible.

I've now cut the body shell into pieces to sell to a metal recycler. My rebuilder is finally finished and is so fine.

But exactly as I finished of course I started getting a "BMS reports voltage isolation warning" and "Car may not restart." It was a nightmare error, but I managed to find it and fix it, with Ingineer's input.

On the mileage question; I don't consider the miles, wear on the shell. It's not like a plane which gets metal fatigue in a reasonable lifetime. Miles're wear on the mechanical and electronic systems. That's my answer. We can fix the VIN.
 
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When I was breaking my parts car (disassembling), try as I might, I busted every single part of the pano roof frame trying to get it out to sell. It is all glued in with Hell-adhesive.

These guys seem to be doing ok and getting through to the pano without too much difficulty:

CxN5BMCUcAAE3rW.jpg:large


P.S. Be careful where you park in Hong Kong.
 
UPDATE

Yeah, I have no idea what this no regen, abs, traction control issue is as yet but I'm going to post a few pics I had from a while back during the rebuild process

Removing front wiring harness (took forever, so many twists and turns its almost overwhelming)

ynkG6Wz.jpg




Removing the ABS pump, Brake booster and air suspension pump



SkhVoSZ.jpg




Corrosion found in the 4 prong connector found in the frunk release, looks like the nose was in the water much deeper than originally thought


upMtVWr.jpg
 
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One thing to check is that all 4 wheel speed sensors are connected and working.

Yes, very good insight

If you look at the video below



You'll see that while the car was in the air with rear wheels spinning the car was not detecting any changes in mph. However while driving my mph was going up and down as normal.

I'll lower the drive unit so I can take a peek at the wheel speed sensors but they are from the low mile p85 which seems odd that they would go bad all of a sudden.


Question for you guys, when a rwd model S is on the dyno does the speedo on the display go up and down?