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HOW TO: Drop Battery Pack in your home garage with basic tools Method 2
This method describes how to drop your pack assuming your car is already in the air and you have no intentions of taking it down
1) Purchase 12 foot section of 4x6 wood to cut in 2 pieces
2) Place wood on dollies you purchased a long time ago and slide under battery pack
3) Use the 2 jacks with crossbeam adapters you already have
4) use 2 jacks with crossbeam adapters to press against battery
5) undo bolts
6) slowly lower battery unto dollies with wood
7)
8) laugh because the rapidmate is fused to the battery pack due to saltwater corrosion
9) AHAHAHAHAH
This method describes how to drop your pack assuming your car is already in the air and you have no intentions of taking it down
1) Purchase 12 foot section of 4x6 wood to cut in 2 pieces
2) Place wood on dollies you purchased a long time ago and slide under battery pack
3) Use the 2 jacks with crossbeam adapters you already have
4) use 2 jacks with crossbeam adapters to press against battery
5) undo bolts
6) slowly lower battery unto dollies with wood
7)
8) laugh because the rapidmate is fused to the battery pack due to saltwater corrosion
9) AHAHAHAHAH
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
Yes, we all want to know about the Victory deodorant. ...Brismuth?
On a serious note. I had no idea a MS would be so catastrophically susceptible to water intrusion. Yes, I do understand if the level is above the door threshold one should not expect much protection. It seems like there would be cause for concern as soon as the level gets to the HV battery disconnects.
I don't think my Prius would fair as bad as the MS.
Thank you Btr_ftw. This thread is SO entertaining.
On a serious note. I had no idea a MS would be so catastrophically susceptible to water intrusion. Yes, I do understand if the level is above the door threshold one should not expect much protection. It seems like there would be cause for concern as soon as the level gets to the HV battery disconnects.
I don't think my Prius would fair as bad as the MS.
Thank you Btr_ftw. This thread is SO entertaining.
What really ground my gears was the fact that the controllers were not conformal coated (Tesla later released a TSB replacing the controllers with boards that were conformal coated), that could have saved me alot of dinero. I feel as if they could have done a better job sealing the battery pack, rapidmate and DU. I think the most water resistant part of the car is the frunk area, the coolant pumps and misc other items seem pretty well designed....
Granted I haven't tested anything under there as yet.
Sogorman
Member
I 100% believe that you can finish the car but think you will need a donor DU, battery, complete HV assembly, HVJB, and charger, along with ECU and other modules. I am a noob but I think the salt in the HV connections will give you nothing but problems, think you need to swap it all out :/
All the 12V stuff should be good since it is all basically above the water line but it seems like this car sat for months with salt water eating at her.
JER
Member
The power train and basically what I would say would be something like a NEMA 3R type rating. Good for a splash, but not submersion. As much as we cant them to be, these cars aren't submarines after all. 
Very cool that the original owner has checked in here. Can't ask for more than that!
Also, 225V on an 85 pack..... it's done. You'll never get even close to full capacity out of that thing even if you do manage to repair it electrically, especially if it's been this way since October. Plus the balancers will have to work overtime because the cells will all have varied IR now.
I think you'll be able to get it going again, but literally you're probably just going to end up having replace everything below the water line that used electricity. Worth it? Maybe.
Very cool that the original owner has checked in here. Can't ask for more than that!
Also, 225V on an 85 pack..... it's done. You'll never get even close to full capacity out of that thing even if you do manage to repair it electrically, especially if it's been this way since October.
Plus the balancers will have to work overtime because the cells will all have varied IR now. I think you'll be able to get it going again, but literally you're probably just going to end up having replace everything below the water line that used electricity. Worth it? Maybe.
Sogorman
Member
Gotta give the car a bath and do some cleanup work on the wiring harness, photos to come.
I want the car 100% prepared for donor parts, if not I'll be sitting on 2 cars for a while. I also want to test a few components up front (coolant pumps etc) to make sure I don't need anything up there
cman8
Member
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