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beeeerock
Active Member
noted. you will be rewarded with more progress photos shortly
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UPDATE
No new progress made, got tied up with stuff at work and trying to clean up the garage along with another few projects. I DO however have a couple unreleased photos that I took of the top of the battery pack as shown from the rear... check it out.
lots of debris, sticks and twigs etc right on top of the battery pack itself
Man I'm dying to get this thing down and check out what kind of water damage is in the pack itself. that rubber boot looks like its seen things...
further away shot of the area above the drive unit, now I see why its easier to remove without the DU in the way.
Pic of all the lines coming out of the rear
That quick-mate connector on the driver's side is the HV connection from the car to the battery. It was never designed to be water-tight, so there is extensive corrosion in there that needs cleaning and drying ASAP. The longer it sits in saltwater (yes there is most definitely water still in there), the more damage is done. See if you can push in the little tabs on either side and release the connector top at least part of the way so you can get in there and dry it out ASAP. The battery side of the connector is hermetic, so water will pool in the bottom. A compressed air gun will help a lot! Of course the best way to get access to this connector fully is to drop the pack.
Note that water in this connector, especially saltwater, will trigger a number of "internal battery faults". I am still betting your pack didn't take in water and is dry inside, but you may very well lose it due to external corrosion on those connectors. Eventually the corrosion will cause the hermetic seals in the connector to start leaking and the water will drip right into the electronics compartment of the BMS. The good news is the other set of connectors (LV/Data) are hermetic and should be dry.
I also still believe you have standing water in your inverter, so the sooner you can dry that out, the better your chances of getting a driveable car out of what you have are.
I think at this point all you need to purchase to get the car to move is a used Body ECU. (and a bunch of Vaseline, but apparently you got that covered! =)
Note that water in this connector, especially saltwater, will trigger a number of "internal battery faults". I am still betting your pack didn't take in water and is dry inside, but you may very well lose it due to external corrosion on those connectors. Eventually the corrosion will cause the hermetic seals in the connector to start leaking and the water will drip right into the electronics compartment of the BMS. The good news is the other set of connectors (LV/Data) are hermetic and should be dry.
I also still believe you have standing water in your inverter, so the sooner you can dry that out, the better your chances of getting a driveable car out of what you have are.
I think at this point all you need to purchase to get the car to move is a used Body ECU. (and a bunch of Vaseline, but apparently you got that covered! =)
Kalud
Active Member
Would he be able to replace the corroded connectors if they were an issue? (Maybe WK has some laying around from the packs he harvested battery modules from.)
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
JRP3
Hyperactive Member
Wow, that's a poor design. Should be a one way valve on that breather which only opens up as air pressure builds up inside the inverter, as well as an extension hose to keep it above most deep water levels.
I agree.
I also was a little surprised to see that although the pack low-voltage control harness uses a water-tight connector housing, the high-voltage connector does not, allowing water to get up in there and sit in the connector housing.
With the pack and drive unit low in the car, I would have expected water intrusion to be a concern for those items...
How about the old kids snorkel, you know, the one with the ping pong type ball that free floats, but closes when your head dipped a bit too low in the water. :biggrin:
But on second thought, probably not in Tesla's marketing strategic vision.
It's useful to quote whom you are replying to when there are multiple subjects being discussed ... but if it was on regard to my post about the pack connectors and water:
Indeed the connectors on the pack are designed for ease of swapping, but one of them has a water seal on it, and one does not.
Pack could be swapped just as easily if connector was mounted on board under seat. As a matter of fact it would be much better if there was an access panel under seat to get to bms and various fuses instead of having to drop the entire pack.
Yes, they have 2 holes right in the middle of the top of the DU, one for the inverter and one for the gear box. So water runs right in both and has no way out.
The easiest thing would have been to install a Gore seal which allows air to equalize, but blocks water. I've used them on many airtight electronics systems over the years. Cheap and work well.
They screwed up on the HV rapid-mate connector too, these are splash resistant, but definitely not watertight.
The easiest thing would have been to install a Gore seal which allows air to equalize, but blocks water. I've used them on many airtight electronics systems over the years. Cheap and work well.
They screwed up on the HV rapid-mate connector too, these are splash resistant, but definitely not watertight.
Questions from the interested but ignorant:
If fresh water gets inside the DU, especially the inverter, in smallish quantities (lets say 6 ounces) is the DU toast? Will fresh water evaporate and otherwise leave behind no damage? If one was driving when this happened (like maybe fording a flooded intersection) with the car stop immediately?
6 ounces may well be ok. There might be just enough room in the housing for that, but it will take a long time for that much water to evaporate through a tiny hole, meanwhile your inverter is a tropical rainforest.
It really depends on where the water runs when it goes in. If you took a hard right turn afterwards it could run into the motor and contact the 3-phase bus bars causing a "Car may not restart" error.
It really depends on where the water runs when it goes in. If you took a hard right turn afterwards it could run into the motor and contact the 3-phase bus bars causing a "Car may not restart" error.
Tesla premium system is nowhere close to a real premium system. They just like to call it that and sucker people into spending $2500 for it. (It's probably only worth about 200 in reality).
This is their "premium" $2500 upgrade. (Don't get suckered into buying it). Go aftermarket.
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