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Replaced a flat with T2 instead of T0

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Am I taking crazy pills or is one of those backwards? Tread should mirror each other. On each side.

Well mine is an AWD... not sure why that'd matter, but I have an appointment with Tesla to put on my winter wheels along with address some other things so I'll ask them for guidance on this.

Unless you're going to go WAY up the food chain at Tesla (to the R&D level!), I wouldn't trust what (most? some?) anyone at a Tesla Service Center would have to say about this.

I'd trust 1) Continental 2) TireRack/Discount Tire 3) Tesla Service Center...in that order.
 
The specs on tire rack are identical. Possibly a slight variation in rubber compound and/or different type of acoustic foam on the inside. I don't expect Continental customer service or even Tesla service would know the answer to what the revisions are. I would be interested though to read any response you received from Tesla or Continental.
 
I know it's an old post .. but I have recently come across this issue, having to replace one of the continental tires ... At first glance they looked identical..When you look more carefully you can notice the difference in the thread pattern.. but it's very subtle ... Another subtle difference is that the T1 has a slightly bigger side rubber lip that protects the rims ( don't know what it's called ) .. but it's barely noticeable... The third difference is in the inside .. the T0 has white noise reduction sponge material inside .. the T1 has black sponge material.. does it affect the way the car feels or drives? Definitely not ... Here are the tires side by side for comparison .. see the difference in thread pattern..
 

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Hmm...resurrecting a year-old thread with a legit (OCD!) question.

There seems to be a consensus amongst OCD tire folk that the tires that come OEM on most (some?) cars do NOT last as long as the tires purchased, same size/brand, aftermarket.

Wouldn't this be an indication of a possible difference in design, rubber compound, etc? If so, wouldn't there be a difference in how the tires perform?
 
I know it's an old post .. but I have recently come across this issue, having to replace one of the continental tires ... At first glance they looked identical..When you look more carefully you can notice the difference in the thread pattern.. but it's very subtle ... Another subtle difference is that the T1 has a slightly bigger side rubber lip that protects the rims ( don't know what it's called ) .. but it's barely noticeable... The third difference is in the inside .. the T0 has white noise reduction sponge material inside .. the T1 has black sponge material.. does it affect the way the car feels or drives? Definitely not ... Here are the tires side by side for comparison .. see the difference in thread pattern..
I ended up making sure I have the same variation (T0, T1 or T2) on an axel, but not the entire car. So the front 2 tires may differ then the rear tires, satisfied my OCD.
 
Hmm...resurrecting a year-old thread with a legit (OCD!) question.

There seems to be a consensus amongst OCD tire folk that the tires that come OEM on most (some?) cars do NOT last as long as the tires purchased, same size/brand, aftermarket.

Wouldn't this be an indication of a possible difference in design, rubber compound, etc? If so, wouldn't there be a difference in how the tires perform?
That's weird ... Looking back at the pictures that TMYB-C1 posted last year, his T0 looks like my T1 .. but his T0 doesn't look like my T0 🤔 ... OCD guys , can you confirm ?

I'm not really worried about how the tires perform .. I think the thread wear will even out after a while ... Couldn't change all my 4 ties because they were in a relatively good condition..
 
I have received conflicting advice from different tire retailers before as well. Discount tire didn't want to install my 18"tires because the load range was one under the 18" stock tires. But wouldn't admit that the tires I was installing were also one load range higher than the stock 19" tires. Load range is an independent variable of the tire, not the rim size.
i tried to put staggered tire setup on my MYLR and discount tire wouldnt do it said it would be disastrous ... i pointed out that the MYP comes staggered stock and they backed down from disastrous to the computer wont let me do it but still wouldnt do it..

i realize the MYP has staggered wheels to go with staggered tires but is there any reason i cant run say 245's on the back and 235's on the front of my MYLR?
 
How do you tell the difference between t0 and t2? Is it marked on the tire?
Yes, you can see it below the "RX" in ProContact RX. The T0 tires are the original "Tesla spec" version of the Continental ProContact RX (that came out in 2020, I think). There has since been a T1 and T2 revision to the ProContact RX tires. If you are buying new Continental ProContact RX tires, you'll get the T2 version, unless a dealer has some old stock of tires.

The manufacturer part numbers for the Continental ProContact RX tires for the Gemini wheels (255 /45 R19 104W) are:
  • T0 - 15573630000
  • T1 - 15577870000
  • T2 - 15578540000

pxl_20220312_205924670-jpeg.780454
 
i tried to put staggered tire setup on my MYLR and discount tire wouldnt do it said it would be disastrous ... i pointed out that the MYP comes staggered stock and they backed down from disastrous to the computer wont let me do it but still wouldnt do it..

i realize the MYP has staggered wheels to go with staggered tires but is there any reason i cant run say 245's on the back and 235's on the front of my MYLR?
That would freak out your cars traction control and safety features. Also disables AP. If it doesn’t come with staggered, you can go staggered with a Tesla.
 
If you stagger properly and maintain the same diameter front and rear, you'll be fine.

With that said, the MYP does not follow this guidance and have the same diameter tires front and rear, but when you select 21" Uberturbine in the software, it accounts for it. If you select 19" or 20" in the software, but are actually running staggered 21" Uberturbines, the car will pulse the ABS every now and then because it senses a vastly different wheel speed between front & rear.

Basically, if you want to stagger your wheels/tires, either stick with the stock 21" sizes, or match the front and rear diameters on 19" and 20" using a tire calculator, and select 19" or 20" in the car's software.
 
If you stagger properly and maintain the same diameter front and rear, you'll be fine.

With that said, the MYP does not follow this guidance and have the same diameter tires front and rear, but when you select 21" Uberturbine in the software, it accounts for it. If you select 19" or 20" in the software, but are actually running staggered 21" Uberturbines, the car will pulse the ABS every now and then because it senses a vastly different wheel speed between front & rear.

Basically, if you want to stagger your wheels/tires, either stick with the stock 21" sizes, or match the front and rear diameters on 19" and 20" using a tire calculator, and select 19" or 20" in the car's software.
That would freak out your cars traction control and safety features. Also disables AP. If it doesn’t come with staggered, you can go staggered with a Tesla.

Firestone did it.. running 235's in front and 245's in the rear its smooth as butter ran for 7k miles now thousands of them on AP
 
Too close of a stagger for the computer to notice, assuming you kept the aspect ratio the same. 235/255 would probably be the threshold.
this guy is running 235 / 255s

 
T# are just different generations of tire customization for a manufacturer. They should be very minimal changes in actual characteristics, otherwise the manufacturer would label them as a different model altogether.

Ideally (or even officially), tires should match in characteristic across an axle or even across all 4 wheels, so there are no differences in responses or behavior across different corners of the car that might surprise the driver.

Real life strays very far from that ideal state though and proves it doesnt matter much. For one, tires are rarely loaded near their limits in normal driving. Two, the tires are always encountering different surfaces and conditions anyway.

For example, one side of the car might go over a small puddle, or drive across a wetter portion of a drying road, or more gravel on the shoulder side, etc, but the car doesn't just spontaneously spin out of control. Those real-life conditions change the traction limit side to side more than having a Michelin vs a Goodyear does.

And the car doesn't "know" about the tires. It only knows if each corner is spinning at different speeds and might apply corrective action (like braking) if the tires are different in diameters. And even then there is typically a generous allowance. Family got a puncture on the road and shop replaced the PS4S with a generic tire , same nominal size but visually looks very different in fit (i couldnt find the spec online), but car drove completely fine.
 
T# are just different generations of tire customization for a manufacturer. They should be very minimal changes in actual characteristics, otherwise the manufacturer would label them as a different model altogether.

Ideally (or even officially), tires should match in characteristic across an axle or even across all 4 wheels, so there are no differences in responses or behavior across different corners of the car that might surprise the driver.

Real life strays very far from that ideal state though and proves it doesnt matter much. For one, tires are rarely loaded near their limits in normal driving. Two, the tires are always encountering different surfaces and conditions anyway.

For example, one side of the car might go over a small puddle, or drive across a wetter portion of a drying road, or more gravel on the shoulder side, etc, but the car doesn't just spontaneously spin out of control. Those real-life conditions change the traction limit side to side more than having a Michelin vs a Goodyear does.

And the car doesn't "know" about the tires. It only knows if each corner is spinning at different speeds and might apply corrective action (like braking) if the tires are different in diameters. And even then there is typically a generous allowance. Family got a puncture on the road and shop replaced the PS4S with a generic tire , same nominal size but visually looks very different in fit (i couldnt find the spec online), but car drove completely fine.
Even if different corners are encountering different conditions, its more or less "+/-" from some average.

But if you consider that various tires have varying abilities when comparing brands or models of tires, then you might have a "compounded" problem where the mismatched tire is normally a little less effective on one side with "equal" environmental conditions, now simply has even worse conditions on top. Sure, you could potentially have a situation where the "better" tire is the one experiencing the worse condition, supposedly "balancing out."

So, by keeping the tires as similar as possible, you minimize the chances of it going from "meh, a little iffy" to "well, now I need to change my pants."

Sure, a car doesn't know the tires, its just one type of indicator of potential problems. Having mismatched tires is a potential source of problem (the car won't be able to warn about), that doesn't need to be made.

You say yours drove completely fine... did you have to panic brake for any reason? I mean, if you're just driving "normally," sure, mismatched tires won't mean much. It's when you NEED to do something, like slow down really fast cause the guy in front of you wasn't paying attention and slammed into the car ahead of them that had slowed down for increased traffic or something broken down in the lane. You couldn't really see directly in front of that guy and other lanes seemed to still be moving pretty quick.

Because you've driven your car for so long and had a set of tires for a while, you felt relatively confident you could stop in time. But forgot about the new mismatched tire, that triggered ABS when it normally wouldn't and now it takes a few extra feet to stop... just enough tap that guy that crashed. And a string of possible things could happen afterwards... but all the while you might wonder if it could've been avoided if the tires had more closely matched.
 
Even if different corners are encountering different conditions, its more or less "+/-" from some average.

But if you consider that various tires have varying abilities when comparing brands or models of tires, then you might have a "compounded" problem where the mismatched tire is normally a little less effective on one side with "equal" environmental conditions, now simply has even worse conditions on top. Sure, you could potentially have a situation where the "better" tire is the one experiencing the worse condition, supposedly "balancing out."

So, by keeping the tires as similar as possible, you minimize the chances of it going from "meh, a little iffy" to "well, now I need to change my pants."

Sure, a car doesn't know the tires, its just one type of indicator of potential problems. Having mismatched tires is a potential source of problem (the car won't be able to warn about), that doesn't need to be made.

You say yours drove completely fine... did you have to panic brake for any reason? I mean, if you're just driving "normally," sure, mismatched tires won't mean much. It's when you NEED to do something, like slow down really fast cause the guy in front of you wasn't paying attention and slammed into the car ahead of them that had slowed down for increased traffic or something broken down in the lane. You couldn't really see directly in front of that guy and other lanes seemed to still be moving pretty quick.

Because you've driven your car for so long and had a set of tires for a while, you felt relatively confident you could stop in time. But forgot about the new mismatched tire, that triggered ABS when it normally wouldn't and now it takes a few extra feet to stop... just enough tap that guy that crashed. And a string of possible things could happen afterwards... but all the while you might wonder if it could've been avoided if the tires had more closely matched.
If you park the car next to a wall for years it would have differential UV rot. If the alignment is different they’d have different contact patches. If the air pressures are different it’d build up different temperatures and have different max grip. Etc.

If everything compounds - and it does - then every single thing “matter”. But thats merely tautological. Different things count in different amount. The variation in local surfaces are higher than the variation in tire performance.

For reasons of aesthetics and practicality and etc I wouldnt tolerate or encourage mixing tires. But its good to know what the implications are and why. So if you had found out on your car one is a T0 and the other is T1 variant of the same tire and you strain to find that the apparent difference is an extra slit in the shoulder tread blocks, and youre not OCD like me, 99.98% its not worth your time to bother!