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Replacing Rear Trim "Chrome" piece: 6009004-01

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SabrToothSqrl

Active Member
Dec 5, 2014
4,587
4,163
PA
All of this is at your own risk, even reading it. I'm not an expert, I don't even get to play one on TV. The judge was very clear on that.

So, while on a dark unfamiliar road, a ditch jumped out and damaged my rear bumper shiny plastic trim thing...
Or maybe it was a conspiracy by Big Oil. In either case, some research landed me that it's a $250 part + 3 hours labor.
Being so broke I cannot afford gasoline (hence the Tesla) and (usually) enjoying repairing things. I undertook replacing it myself. What should be a $20 piece of plastic and 30 min job took me the part and about 2 hours. If I had to do it again, maybe an hour. Sorry for not enough photos, it's hard to get pics and keep working.

Backed up my car up on some ramps, and admired the barely visible to the human eye from people height damage... and almost considered just returning the part.
But, the show must go on.

1. car on ramps
2. 10mm 6 point socket and a torx, size 20 (I think, I have set)
3. 4 flat blade screw drivers
4. long thin arms/hands
5. gloves to keep hands pretty ;)

Jacked up the back end, and removed the 4 plastic/rubbery strips that are for air flow / preventing bottom damage.
This also removes 2 shields. they are super thin plastic pain in the butt. You have 2 types of screws. one is machine thread and goes into nicely threaded things, the other is coarse thread and goes into body clips. you can't interchange them. Also some plastic pop rivets. go slow, no rush :)

I found some gizmo connected by wire that doesn't come out velco'd to the top of the plastic shield. You can remove the connector on it, but not one of the wires, but it's not an issues, just don't go hacking into it or anything, it says antenna or something on it, size of a laptop charger box.

So, the 'correct' or manual way of trim piece replacement is to remove the rear bumper... which I wouldn't even know where to start with.

I was able to pop the first under motor shield completely off, while the more rearward one was still attached to a few points on the far sides.

From here I was able to get a screw driver under each of the tabs, they are a PITA, really look at how they work, just flat out pulling isn't going to work. you have to get the black plastic out of the way.

Ok, so now you have the shiny plastic thing bent back and a fun 2" gap between the bottom black plastic shield and the rest of the shiny piece. Since this $250 piece is mission critical an totally integral to the safe operation of your Tesla, you will find that it's now held in, in the center, by a coarse T20 or so bolt with a body clip on the trim piece. because... reasons dammit.

Get a 1/4" socket wrench up in there while wearing gloves and as a side note, don't use brake cleaner that afternoon due to all the new small cuts on your hands. It will burn, but you won't really know why until a few hours later... (I was also working on an out-drive gear fix)

Once removed you'll be able to get the shiny plastic finally off the car. The bumper bends more than you'd expect, and is actually rather durable.

you'll have to move the body clip from the old to the new $250 plastic chunk. so, do that.

When putting the new one on, make sure you don't just push that sucker on, it will clip in so nice and smooth you'll forget all about the torx bolt and have to unclip the bottom row all over! Get your 1/4" wrench in there and lock that single bolt down, then reassemble paying attention to where the coarse bolts go and plastic body rivets.

Knowing what I do now, I would do this again, although my arms and chest and back were SOOO sore for 2 days after, so if you have a lift, use that. If you don't feel like this, $300 isn't all that bad a deal to just let Tesla do it...

Hope this helps :) I miss my wrangler... I could swap an axle in less time.
 

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All of this is at your own risk, even reading it. I'm not an expert, I don't even get to play one on TV. The judge was very clear on that.

So, while on a dark unfamiliar road, a ditch jumped out and damaged my rear bumper shiny plastic trim thing...
Or maybe it was a conspiracy by Big Oil. In either case, some research landed me that it's a $250 part + 3 hours labor.
Being so broke I cannot afford gasoline (hence the Tesla) and (usually) enjoying repairing things. I undertook replacing it myself. What should be a $20 piece of plastic and 30 min job took me the part and about 2 hours. If I had to do it again, maybe an hour. Sorry for not enough photos, it's hard to get pics and keep working.

Backed up my car up on some ramps, and admired the barely visible to the human eye from people height damage... and almost considered just returning the part.
But, the show must go on.

1. car on ramps
2. 10mm 6 point socket and a torx, size 20 (I think, I have set)
3. 4 flat blade screw drivers
4. long thin arms/hands
5. gloves to keep hands pretty ;)

Jacked up the back end, and removed the 4 plastic/rubbery strips that are for air flow / preventing bottom damage.
This also removes 2 shields. they are super thin plastic pain in the butt. You have 2 types of screws. one is machine thread and goes into nicely threaded things, the other is coarse thread and goes into body clips. you can't interchange them. Also some plastic pop rivets. go slow, no rush :)

I found some gizmo connected by wire that doesn't come out velco'd to the top of the plastic shield. You can remove the connector on it, but not one of the wires, but it's not an issues, just don't go hacking into it or anything, it says antenna or something on it, size of a laptop charger box.

So, the 'correct' or manual way of trim piece replacement is to remove the rear bumper... which I wouldn't even know where to start with.

I was able to pop the first under motor shield completely off, while the more rearward one was still attached to a few points on the far sides.

From here I was able to get a screw driver under each of the tabs, they are a PITA, really look at how they work, just flat out pulling isn't going to work. you have to get the black plastic out of the way.

Ok, so now you have the shiny plastic thing bent back and a fun 2" gap between the bottom black plastic shield and the rest of the shiny piece. Since this $250 piece is mission critical an totally integral to the safe operation of your Tesla, you will find that it's now held in, in the center, by a coarse T20 or so bolt with a body clip on the trim piece. because... reasons dammit.

Get a 1/4" socket wrench up in there while wearing gloves and as a side note, don't use brake cleaner that afternoon due to all the new small cuts on your hands. It will burn, but you won't really know why until a few hours later... (I was also working on an out-drive gear fix)

Once removed you'll be able to get the shiny plastic finally off the car. The bumper bends more than you'd expect, and is actually rather durable.

you'll have to move the body clip from the old to the new $250 plastic chunk. so, do that.

When putting the new one on, make sure you don't just push that sucker on, it will clip in so nice and smooth you'll forget all about the torx bolt and have to unclip the bottom row all over! Get your 1/4" wrench in there and lock that single bolt down, then reassemble paying attention to where the coarse bolts go and plastic body rivets.

Knowing what I do now, I would do this again, although my arms and chest and back were SOOO sore for 2 days after, so if you have a lift, use that. If you don't feel like this, $300 isn't all that bad a deal to just let Tesla do it...

Hope this helps :) I miss my wrangler... I could swap an axle in less time.

Great write up. I may have personally completely chickened out on the process and will probably cowardly hand Tesla three crispy Benjamins to do it, but that is mostly because I can just make it up by working some overtime elsewhere....:D

That being said however, I'm kind of formulating a plan so this doesn't become an annual or semi annual trim piece subscription at your local Tesla service center. :confused:

So, the draft of my plan was kind of leaning in this direction. The reason the trim piece gets snagged and broken in most cases is it probably gets pushed over a parking barrier or a sidewalk edge.

When you pull forward, the sharp edge facing forward catches on the parking barrier or sidewalk. The sharp forward facing edges snag and the trim piece is broken by literally trying to drag a parking cement block held in place by rebar back to your place.

So, what if you simple took a Dremel, and cut the sharp edges off almost horizonal, and made the very edges of the piece just about 10 to 15 degrees forward facing up.

I don't think anyone would ever notice the edges missing and you would probably only have to cut about 1/2" by maybe 1" on each side.

If your OCD started flaring up over the cut areas, you could always put a small piece of chrome tape over the areas and it wouldn't be visible unless you looked under the car and knew what you were looking for.

Since I have a broken piece already and can experiment on the good side, figure if I Frankenstein that thing beyond recognition, it will be replaced at my next service appointment anyways.

Anyone interested in this experimental attempt in extending the service life of the trim piece, or other methods of doing so?

I think the current configuration is just waiting for your next supercharger stop to cost you another $500 or so.:(
 
It's such an aesthetic piece... it looks nice, but at what cost? I'd be fine with a chrome strip ON the bumper, but below it like this is just asking for trouble...

Well, it is mostly the design and mounting method asking for trouble. The piece should have been flush or slightly recessed compared to the piece in front of it, at is stick out and down like a claw on each side, just waiting to drag anything in its path.

It is almost like the pieces didn't fit right after production and they never adjusted them to seamlessly fit to prevent this issue.

As a bonus, you back into a lot of Superchargers over concrete barriers, so this design is just asking for trouble and it appears to me more of a question of when, rather than if, it will be broken.
 
p.s. I'm SO curious to know if I could tap power off that black box you found down there.

I might just go digging mine out to have a look.

I have a project / idea in mind, would make it easier if a little bit of power was available there.
 
I see Canada stamped on that chrome thing... Whooo hoo! More content win for Canada... (you know, the "other Mexico" to the north).. First the suspension arms, now this... go Canada!

Trump will fix that "problem". It will be made in the US by the time AP2.0 gets activated and will sell for $450 at that time.
 
Nice write up. I wonder if the parts and/or fitment have changed over time. On my 2012 Model S P85, the chrome piece does not protrude as much. The antenna piece you found inside the bumper is part of the Tire Pressure Monitoring System. Also, as you take off the motor shield, keep in mind the more rearward shield is part of the bumper cover, in order to remove, the entire bumper cover has to come out.

IMG_2307.jpg
 
more pics...
That antenna you are referring to:
"I found some gizmo connected by wire that doesn't come out velco'd to the top of the plastic shield. You can remove the connector on it, but not one of the wires, but it's not an issues, just don't go hacking into it or anything, it says antenna or something on it, size of a laptop charger box." I think its the fob antenna that unlocks the trunk when you are back there. Seen it before.
 
p.s. I'm SO curious to know if I could tap power off that black box you found down there.

I might just go digging mine out to have a look.

I have a project / idea in mind, would make it easier if a little bit of power was available there.

there's a 4 pin connector on one side, if anything it might have 12v, but that's only a guess.

As for the gap on mine, it's because the black rubber/plastic piece that lines so neatly up with it is bent/scraped. since you can't see it at all, I doubt I'll ever get around to replacing it.

Although, now that you've brought it up... What are the part numbers of the 4 rubberyplastic 'runners' along the bottom of the back end?

Since Tesla is so tight lipped about repairs/manuals, does anyone have like a wiki car repair manual where we Could start uploading photos and part numbers?
 
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