Requesting Blox Spacers Reviews/inputs

[artsci]

Any high quality spacers will do the trick. Brand does not matter, quality rules. I’ve had spacers on my performance 3 almost from day one (December 2018) with no problems whatsoever. Ditto for my Model S (spacers on it for about 4 years). None are Blox.

 

[TwoK4drSi]

Any high quality spacers will do the trick. Brand does not matter, quality rules. I’ve had spacers on my performance 3 almost from day one (December 2018) with no problems whatsoever. Ditto for my Model S (spacers on it for about 4 years). None are Blox.

Good to know. I think the horror stories come from people that don't have them bolted correctly or buys the wrong ones but so far I'm liking it.

Do you check or retorque the spacers every once in awhile? Also anyone running blox...did you put the black caps back on the wheel stud?

 

[diggity]

Yeah, the thing is that Blox is very well priced, excellent quality, and readily available. I went down this rabbit hole of trying to find other quality hub-centric spacers and just gave up - I could tell that it would probably cost more and was going to be a waste of my time.

 

[Gouldness]

I did 130ft/lbs per spacer and wheel and redid all of them 5 times just bc I’m OCD

Just got mine in the mail last night and had a few questions.

1: Blox spec says 103.5 ft/lbs torque, yet Tesla is 129. I'm going to do 129 on all 8 sets as it just wouldn't make any sense to have a "weak link" at 103 at either inner or outer studs.
2: The front spacers came with extra lugs, like half lugs, along with normal looking lugs like the rear set. Anyone know what those are for?

Thanks for any advice / experience.

EDIT: I think i figured it out, the front is to slim to do a full lug and fit under the 15 mil distance.

 

[Phlier]

Blox spec says 103.5 ft/lbs torque, yet Tesla is 129. I'm going to do 129 on all 8 sets as it just wouldn't make any sense to have a "weak link" at 103 at either inner or outer studs.

OK, so how to explain this without going full nerd...

Just because the torque spec on the one bolt is lower than the other bolt, it doesn't mean that the lower torque spec is going to be the "weak link."

The total clamping force a fastener develops is based on many things... diameter of the bolt, the thread size and spacing, the length of the bolt, the number of threads on the nut, the metal alloys used in both the bolt and the nut, torque applied to the nut, etc. etc. etc. Run all those things through a formula, and you can get the total clamping force of the system. Hopefully, this very brief (and really cringe-y) summary illuminates the fact that you can develop the same total clamping force with a lower torque value, as the torque value itself is only one of the many numbers used to determine the total clamping force.

DO NOT just randomly change the torque to something other than the manufacturer's recommended torque value, as they have run the numbers through the formula, and the numbers they tell you do not give you a "weak link."

 

[Gouldness]

OK, so how to explain this without going full nerd...

Hopefully, this very brief (and really cringe-y) summary illuminates the fact that you can develop the same total clamping force with a lower torque value, as the torque value itself is only one of the many numbers used to determine the total clamping force.

DO NOT just randomly change the torque to something other than the manufacturer's recommended torque value, as they have run the numbers through the formula, and the numbers they tell you do not give you a "weak link."

Gotcha, so the lugs on their spacers are different sizes? then Tesla's and thus do not need 129 ft/lbs. Ok, that would make sense, thought they were the same. FYI i'm still waiting to hear back from Blox directly, prob hear back by nightime, morning there in Hong Kong.

I'm in no rush to do all this, but if they have different sized lugs that makes sense. I've searched every thread across every forum and Blox site and nothing addresses this "seemingly" contradictory information.

EDIT: Follow up question if anyone knows, the 103.5 ft/lbs apply to the lug-bolt that is connecting the wheel to the adapter plate, and 129 ft/lbs is for the plate to the stock testa lug-bolts?

 

[Phlier]

I'm in no rush to do all this, but if they have different sized lugs that makes sense. I've searched every thread across every forum and Blox site and nothing addresses this "seemingly" contradictory information.

The reason I said my very abbreviated reason for not changing the torque value was "very cringe-y" is that it doesn't take into consideration many other factors. As an example, the clamping force that's required by the fasteners for that sub-group of the entire rotating assembly will be different than that needed for attaching the wheel to the hub (the lug nuts) because of leverage (among other things). The location of the bolts determines how much leverage force for a given amount of rotating mass will be placed on that particular group of fasteners. And the amount of rotating leverage on that group of fasteners will be far different than the leverage placed on the lug nuts used to secure the tire.

Also keep in mind that the actual strength of the bolt is considered when determining torque values. Most people think that over torquing a fastener is most often the safest way to err. That's often not the case. Yes, you'll achieve higher clamping force, but in the process, lower the amount of force the fastener can take before it fails.

There is a lot of engineering (and the associated math) that goes into determining the needed clamping force on any fastener that is part of a rotating assembly. Unless you are prepared to do all of that math, stick with the torque values specified for each fastener by the manufacturer.

 

[Phlier]

Uggh... Reading back through my last post, there's a lot of words that need to be changed.

Let's just do this...

TL;DR

NEVER tighten any bolt to a torque value higher or lower than that specified for the intended use, unless you are capable of doing the math behind the altered torque value and have, in fact, done that math.

And ALWAYS use a torque wrench to tighten fasteners when a torque value is given for that particular application.

 

[jyalpert]

And ALWAYS use a torque wrench to tighten fasteners when a torque value is given for that particular application.

Yeah but what if your torque wrench says Harbor Freight on it and cost $13?

 

[Phlier]

Yeah but what if your torque wrench says Harbor Freight on it and cost $13?

Then you pays your money, and you takes your chances.

 

[Gouldness]

Still waiting to hear from Blox.

If anyone has actually done this, please sound off.

 

[Gouldness]

Still waiting to hear from Blox.

If anyone has actually done this, please sound off.

Never got a reply from Blox (their eBay store) so there's that.

Decided to do the 129 lbs on Tesla's bolts, and the 103.5 lbs on Blox' bolts. That way everyone gets their spec and I just get the result.

Once i get my new wheels mounted i'll show the final result.

 

[KenMast3rs]

My friend used the cordless gun to tighten the spacers and then he torqued the wheels on at 129lbs.

 

[Wennfred]

Brian / i1Tesla got them now, great video:

 

[Wennfred]

Finally had some time and installed the Front spacers on and also installed the brake covers.
15mm front and 20mm rear.

 

[mytymyke]

Used 20 mm in the rear and 15 mm in the front from Blox. Also lowered on t sportlines.

 

[Chris3g]

15mm front 25mm rear on MPP coilovers

5mm front 15mm rear with 19x9et35 wheels for summer

 

[KenMast3rs]

Originally went with 15/20 set up, but wanted a more aggressive set up and changed to 20/25.

 

[fajitamondays]

15mm front 25mm rear on MPP coilovers

That looks great. Do you have an angle shot showing the 15/25 setup?

 

[bcpm3p]

more angle shot please